The view from the Summit of Old Rag in Shenandoah National Park
Though there are few national parks on the east coast, Shenandoah National Park is a great one. I have visited several times and although I have not hiked all the trails (there are more than 500 miles of trails), I do have some favorites. Here is what we found to do!
Skyline drive through Shenandoah has wonderful pull-offs and interesting stone work along its 105 miles.
No trip to Shenandoah National Park would be complete without a drive along Skyline Drive. For some visitors, that is all they do. We like to venture off the road and have found hikes we like for all skill levels.
Dark Hollow Falls
A favorite to hike with kids is the Dark Hollow Falls trail. It is short, shady, and offers a 70 foot waterfall. Though pretty steep, you arrive at the falls after only .7 miles.
Though a shorter hike, snacks for kids before the way back up is a good thing to have along.
Parking for the Dark Hollow Falls trail is between mileposts 50 and 51, here. After a hike, the Byrd Visitor Center just down Skyline Drive makes a great stop.
Dark Hollow Falls
For more information about this trail, visit the NPS site.
Pink Azaleas in bloom at the end of May
Stony Man
Some of the wildlife on the trail to Stony Man
We took advantage of a free, range-led hike from the Skyland area of the park to the Stony Man viewpoint. These programs change often, check the NPS website to help you plan for your own trip. This 1.6-mile round trip hike takes you along a portion of the Appalachian Trail as well. You can read more about this hike here on the NPS site.
Views from the Stony Man viewpoint
Rose River Falls
The hike to Rose River Falls was a 4-mile circuit making it longer than both the Dark Hollow and Stony Man hikes. The waterfall, though over 60 feet high, was obscured by trees and it was not easy to access its base. Still, we liked this hike because it followed the shallow Rose River for quite a while giving us ample opportunity to rest, cool off, and just reflect.
The 67-foot Rose River Falls
Parking for Rose River Falls can be found between milepost 49 and 50 near the Fisher’s Gap overlook. For a more detailed map, see the NPS page here.
Hawksbill Summit via Upper Hawksbill trail
Hawksbill Summit is the highest point in Shenandoah National Park at 4049 feet. There are 3 different ways to hike to the summit. Two of the trails start at the Hawksbill Gap parking lot between mileposts 45 and 46. The third hike begins from the Upper Hawksbill parking area past milepost 46. We chose this 3rd route because our kids were small at the time and this 2.1-mile hike was less steep or shorter than the other options. All 3 trails are clearly marked on the NPS site here.
Heading up to Hawksbill summitThe view from Hawksbill summit
Old Rag
For my favorite hike in Shenandoah National Park, we left the kids at home! The hike up Old Rag is a very strenuous 9.4 mile circuit, that sometimes requires scrambling over large boulders with all 4 limbs.
Starting up the mountain, a bridge toward the end of the circuit.
Trail access for Old Rag does not start from Skyline Drive, a detailed map and parking directions can be found at the NPS site here.
The view as we begin the rock scramble.
Making our way over the rocks.Climbing above the clouds!The view from the summit of Old Rag
Walking through the forest on the way back down.
Where to Stay
We have stayed in 2 different areas when visiting Shenandoah National Park. I love in-park lodging because it gets you that much closer to the trails. For that reason, we chose the Skyland Resort on our first visit.
Our cabin at Skyland and a young bear spotted from the deck.
On our trip to Old Rag we stayed outside the park, near the trailhead. We found a great B&B online, Sharp Rock Vineyards.
The weather is getting warmer in WNY, spring break is coming, and many people are not going to be traveling this year. Friends and family have been asking me, what are some fun day trips you would recommend and where should I take my kids hiking that isn’t too far from home? Here are my 5 favorite easy local hikes!
One of two interpretive viewing platforms at Erlandson Overview Park.
5-Erlandson Overview Park
This small park in Frewsburg, NY is a nice place to relax in southern Chautauqua County. There is a gazebo with picnic tables, a 1-mile hiking trail, and a large grassy expanse with great views. Directions can be found here.
We visit this park regularly whenever we want a quick walk in nature that is close to home or a park-like setting without the crowds of a city playground.
The trail winds through the woods and pops out once onto another grassy opening with a distant view of Chautauqua Lake. The signs and blue blazes are very easy to follow. We have visited in all seasons, even enjoying a warm Christmas Eve hike once before the rush of the Holiday.
Water flowing in the Chautauqua Gorge
4-Chautauqua Gorge
Close to my first home, this hidden gem isn’t often visited by non-locals. I have many fond memories of exploring the Chautauqua Gorge as a child and enjoy taking my own kids here. The Chautauqua Gorge State Forest is located at the end of Hannum Road in Mayville. It consists of a day-use area and some primitive campsites but the best part is hiking down in and exploring and splashing in Chautauqua Creek.
To get down to the water, drive to the very end of the Hannum Road, continuing even after it turns into dirt. At the very end is a small parking area, take the path to the left. The descent into the gorge is steep and the trail can be muddy or washed out in places. Keep an eye on young children as there are also occasional narrow sections with steep drop-offs.
Once at the bottom, there is a deeper section of creek at the end of the trail where people are often seen swimming. We prefer to walk upstream a bit. There are some really neat sections where the sheer shale walls tower above you.
Summer is the best time to visit because much of this hike takes place in the water but if visiting during other times of the year, a portion of the Westside Overland Trail can also be accessed from the State Forest.
Luensman Overview Park on a foggy morning
3-Luensman Overview Park
The northern most hike on the list is Luensman Overview Park in Portland, NY. Like it’s sister park, Erlandson above, there are a couple viewing platforms with fantastic views of Lake Erie, a gazebo, picnic tables, and a 1-mile hiking trail through the forested regions of the park.
View of Lake Erie
The length of this hike is great for little legs. The trail is well marked and the rolling terrain is interesting without being too challenging.
Three generations out on the trail.
Spring arrives at Erlandson Overview Park
Another bonus to this park is its proximity to Lake Erie. After hiking here, a great day trip might include a stop at Lake Erie State Park in Brocton NY where one can look for sea glass at its small beach, hit a playground, or just sit and watch the sunset.
The view that awaits at the end of the Rim Rock trail.
2-Rim Rock Trail from Kinzua Beach
This hike is not in Chautauqua County, it is not even in New York State, but the drive here is only 45 minutes from Jamestown making this beautiful area the perfect day trip.
There are two ways to get to the Rim Rock overlook. The first is to drive there. There is a large parking and picnic area located here. This post, however, is about hiking so I recommend starting at Kinzua Beach and walking the 1-mile trail to the overlook. If you are hiking with kids, they will have stretched their legs and will be tired enough that they won’t run dangerously around the big rock city at the top. Plus, the view is more rewarding when you work for it. Finally, the second half of the hike will be downhill with the promise of a splash in the Allegheny Reservoir on a warm day.
Starting up the trail to Rim Rock Overlook
The trail gradually climbs up in elevation and doesn’t feel steep until the very end. At this point though, there are a lot of interesting rocks to check out or sit upon if you need to rest. The last section of the trail winds through and includes a staircase among these big rocks.
Once at the top, there are nice views of the Allegheny Reservoir. There are picnic tables and vault toilets near the parking lot as well. After resting at the top, we usually spend some time exploring and climbing on rocks before heading back down.
The view from the top!
Climbing rocks and heading back down the trail.
Back at the bottom, Kinzua Beach offers a place to dip your toes or even swim on a hot day. The beach surface is more of a pea gravel than sand and there are no lifeguards but the water is shallow and it is a quiet place to reflect on your efforts and the beauty of the area.
Early autumn view from the trail at the Jamestown Audubon Center
1-Jamestown Audubon Nature Center
This one has been my absolute favorite local hike for years and for so many different reasons! It is very close to my house, so I can go here after work on a sunny day and relieve some stress. I have taken my kids here to walk since they were very small. The big pond loop is 2 miles long and very flat, it is perfect for kids. Even when my kids were very little, the trails were easily navigated with a jogging stroller. An Audubon visit is great in any season. In the winter, it is a great place to cross-country ski or snowshoe. Not only do we use the trails, but there are also great events and nature programming throughout the year. I just can’t say enough about this one.
Spring arrives at the Audubon
Spring brings new life to the woods. Besides hiking, one of our favorite activities is to attend a bird banding demonstration. You can check the website here for dates and times.
Hiking through blue bird meadow, some skunk cabbage, and pausing to look at big pond.A Yellow Warbler is about to be released after being banded.
Another attraction to the Audubon for me is the diverse habitats that a loop around big pond traverses. From wet lands, to old plantation forests, through thick Hemlock canopies, and then open meadows this trail offers a lot to see.
Boardwalk over wetlandsTowering tree canopies.
In winter, it can be difficult to find ways to get out of the house and into nature. I think the Audubon is especially beautiful in snow. So even if we have a false spring and the snow returns, a quick trip to see the beauty in the snow is good for the spirit.
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No cross country adventure is complete without a stop at Grand Canyon National Park. Here is what we found to do!
5-Walk the Rim trail near Mather Point
As soon as you arrive in Grand Canyon National Park you will want to get to the rim! Easily accessible from the Grand Canyon Visitor Center parking lot or any of the in-park lodges is the Rim Trail. The vastness of this geologic wonder just can not be grasped until you view it for the first time in person.
4-Spend the night
There are a variety of lodging options to choose from inside Grand Canyon National Park. Since the drive from neighboring Flagstaff is an hour and a half, staying in the park is a great way to maximize your time here. There are two distinct sections at the south rim. The Visitor Center and Market Plaza area include Yavapai Lodge which is operated by Delaware North. Another concessionaire, Xanterra Parks and Resorts, operates Bright Angel Lodge, El Tovar Hotel, Kachina Lodge, Thunderbird Lodge, and Maswik Lodge in the Historic District. We chose to stay at Yavapai Lodge East for its family-friendly accommodations and economy.
Outside and inside Yavapai Lodge East.
3-Drive out to Desert View Watchtower
Located at the easternmost entrance to Grand Canyon National Park, the Desert View Watchtower is 25 miles from Canyon Village. After a day of hiking and biking, this drive is a relaxing finish.
The Watchtower was built in 1932 as a way to improve depression-stunted tourism in the area of the Grand Canyon. It was designed by architect Mary Colter whose Native American inspired structures are found throughout the Southwest.
The view across the canyon from the Desert View Watchtower showing the Colorado River and a storm over the north rim.
2-Sunset at Grandview Point
Watching the setting sun illuminate the rocky layers of the canyon is a sight not to be missed. We settled on Grandview Point for the place to watch the show. This area was less crowded than the bustling Mather Point. It also provided the opportunity to walk the Grandview Trail a bit to find further seclusion. After the sunset, it was only a 12-mile long drive back to Canyon Village on Desert View Drive.
Sunset from Grandview Point and a storm over the north rim.
1-Bright Angel Bicycles Hermit Road Tour
Our favorite family activity was the not-to-be-missed Bright Angel Bicycles Hermit Road Tour! Starting from the Bright Angel Bicycles cafe and shop right next to the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, this tour provided bicycles, helmets, shuttle service to and from starting and stopping points, and a very knowledgeable guide. If you are undecided about what tour to take while visiting the Grand Canyon and your family likes biking, this is definitely the tour to take.
Rental bikes lined up outside Bright Angel Bicycles
The Hermit Road Tour begins at Hopi Point and continues along 5.5 easy peddling miles to Hermit’s Rest. Along the way, stops are made at many of the view points and the interpretive guide is with you the whole time to share their extensive knowledge of the park’s history, geology, flora, and fauna.
It took about 3 hours from start to finish, but we felt we were able to see so much more on bikes than we could have by walking or even driving. Some of the roads were closed to private motor vehicles so other than the occasional park shuttle, we had the road to ourselves. This tour is great for all ages. Trailers or tagalong bikes are available for those who are too young to peddle on their own.
Hermit’s Rest, the last stop on the bike tour.
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Landscape arch, the longest arch in the world, is a short hike in Arches National Park.
Sometimes when traveling, you have one shot to visit a bucket list park. We were traveling as a family around Utah and were in Moab, home to Arches National Park, for just one day. It was also a day of 90º temperatures! Here is what we found to do to make the most of our day and beat the heat!
The view from the Devil’s Garden trail
5-Devil’s Garden trail and Landscape Arch
The best way to beat the heat is to start early! We arrived in the park by 8:00 am and decided the best plan would be to skip areas like the fiery furnace and the longer hike to Delicate Arch and head to the far end of the park where a short hike would take us to the longest arch in the world. The Devil’s Garden trailhead took us to 4 different arches with less than 2 miles of hiking. The first two arches, Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch, were found on a spur trail to the right, shortly after we began.
Tunnel ArchPine Tree Arch
Back on the main section of the Devil’s Garden Trail, it wasn’t long before the sandy trail became peppered with boulders and Landscape Arch appeared on the left. With a light opening of 306 feet, this is the longest arch in the world! In September of 1991, a 60 foot section of the arch broke off and fell. You can no longer hike beneath it. The forces of nature that created these sandstone arches are still at work today, creating new ones as the old ones fall.
Landscape Arch
We traveled up the path a bit as it became more of a rock scramble, to see one last arch. Partition arch was almost hidden in the sandstone wall to the left side of the trail. At this point, the sun was getting hot and we retraced our steps back to the parking lot.
Partition Arch
4-Sand Dune Arch
Driving just a short distance back down the park road, we pulled off again at the stop for Sand Dune Arch. This is a great stop for kids for several reasons. First, the trail is shaded and there is deep sand on the ground. The kids loved it. Second, it is super short, just .3 miles round trip. Third, it was secluded and less popular, we were the only ones exploring it!
Sand Dune ArchOne of the shaded nooks to explore on the Sand Dune Arch trail.
3-Balanced Rock
Continuing on the park road back toward the visitor center, the next stop we made was Balanced Rock. The trail here is also just .3 miles long. It loops around this interesting and delicate rock formation with nice views of the windows in the distance.
Balanced RockView of the Windows with the La Sal Mountains in the distance.
2-Double Arch and the Windows
After seeing the array of rock formations that comprise the windows section from afar, we decided to get a little closer. By this time, it was approaching noon and getting pretty hot out. The same parking area serves both the Windows and Double Arch. We walked toward the Windows, but the trail was pretty exposed. We took a few photos from a distance then headed to the closer, shadier, Double Arch.
Trail heading to the Windows.Double Arch
Double Arch was very neat to look at and you could walk right under the arches and sit in their shade. The red sandstone was in sharp contrast against the brilliant blue sky.
The underside of one of Double Arch’s arches.
1-Park Avenue
At this point, no amount of cool water or snacks could keep the kids from whining. So we made one last stop at Park Avenue, primarily because the rock formations could be seen from the air conditioned car! I made a mental note to return to Arches someday to complete the hike to Delicate Arch and explore the Fiery Furnace on a ranger led tour. But for today, we marveled at one last natural phenomenon together, before heading back to the hotel to spend the afternoon swimming in the pool.
Coming up with a list of my top 5 favorite hikes of all time was no easy task. I chose hikes not just for the trail or scenery, but for the particular emotional feel of that day. I encourage you to hike the trails on this list, but also to pick 5 hikes of your own that gave you a memorable experience of heightened emotion.
Number 5-Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook/Fairy Falls Trail, Yellowstone National Park
This was a great hike (meaning nobody complained) that I was able to take with my whole family while traveling through Wyoming in August 2020. This was just one experience we had together during a 2-week tour of Wyoming but it was a very memorable one. I think the combined victory of perfect weather and harmonious children was intensified on this trip by the realization that we were here, on vacation, after months of uncertainty due to the pandemic.
Looking at thermal features along the Firehole River, shortly after leaving the parking area.Grand Prismatic Spring as seen from above.
As the trail moves away from the thermal area, the number of Lodgepole Pine trees increased dramatically.Our first look at Fairy FallsThe spray was refreshing on a hot August day.
After returning from the falls, the parking lot for the boardwalk around Grand Prismatic Spring is a very short drive north. I highly recommend combining the hike up to the overlook with this short walk around the spring. The feeling you get as you the heat coming from the earth hits you is surreal.
Number 4-Mt Marcy Summit from Johns Brook Lodge-ADK High Peaks Wilderness, New York
June of 2018-I had just closed out another school year and was excited about the great plans I had for summer. My first adventure was a hiking trip in the Adirondack High Peak Wilderness with a group of fellow teachers from all around WNY. We hiked in and stayed at Johns Brook Lodge for two nights. This lodge was a great starting point for the roughly 11-mile roundtrip hike to the summit of Mt Marcy. Mount Marcy, at 5344 feet, is the highest point in New York State.
After a great breakfast at the lodge, my friend Mary and I broke off from the group to start out on our hike. After about a mile and a half, there is a short but steep spur trail to take you to the beautiful Bushnell falls. Take the trail! It is well worth it.
Bushnell Falls
For several miles, we trudged through what appeared to be more of a seasonal stream bed than a trail but our lively conversation kept us going. Before long, we reached a break in the trees where we could assess how far we had ascended by taking in the view.
Our first look at the ADK wilderness from above.
For the last half mile or so, the trail opened up to bare rock. At this elevation, one enters an arctic-alpine zone. This ecosystem contains beautiful and fragile plants. If you hike this trail, please walk only on solid rock to protect these plants.
The view from the top!My friend Mary enjoys the view from the summit after our picnic lunch from the lodge.
We retraced our steps to return to the lodge with plenty of time to relax on the deck before rejoining our group for a hot meal. We were tired and sore but felt immensely accomplished after the completion of this bucket list hike.
Number 3-Cascade Falls Trail, Pembroke Virginia
February 2020, I embarked on a whirlwind trip with a good friend. Unlike most of my adventures where the planning is done by me, this trip was entirely planed by my friend Shane and I had the pleasure of enjoying 22 waterfalls and 40 miles of hiking over 5 days! Cascades Falls was the very last hike of a perfect trip which is probably why it was so memorable. The other reason I loved it was because of the suspense that built up as the trail snaked back and both along Little Stony Creek. At every turn you thought maybe the waterfall was just around the bend!
The trailhead for Cascade Falls is just north of Pembroke Virginia in the Jefferson National Forest. You can find the parking lot here. The hike to the falls, on this out and back trail, was just about two miles for a total of 4 miles round trip.
A look at the beautiful Little Stony Creek, not far from the trailhead.
Though it was February, there was still a lot of green on the trail. Mountain Laurel, mosses, and ferns were found throughout the area.
Greenery along the trail.
Not having planned this trip, I was not sure what the waterfall would look like. I was walking a little in front of my friend and thought maybe we had arrived when I saw the falls below, but it was just a pretty little seasonal fall along the trail, not on the main creek.
We continued around interesting bends in the creek, often along stone paths like this one below. I tried to discover the origin of this stonework online but only found that the trail was built in the 1960’s. If you know more about who built it, I would love to know!
And then finally, around the corner, the waterfall appears!
The 66′ Cascade Falls
I was fortunate to have the gift of time to sit and watch the cascading water for awhile. This hike, this trip, this moment were all truly worth waiting for. I was happy to relax and enjoy it.
Number 2-Four Mile Trail, one-way from Glacier Point to Swinging bridge, Yosemite National Park
Tunnel View. Our first stop on the drive up to Glacier Point.
In July of 2019, we took a family trip through northern California that ended in Yosemite National Park. I really wanted to hike this trail, but with kids in tow, knew that going down would be the only way to convince them it was worth it. You can book a shuttle for a one-way drive up to Glacier Point from the valley, but they were all sold out. My husband wanted me to have this experience so he drove us up to the top and my youngest child volunteered to be my hiking partner. The two older kids were happy to get a ride back down. This trip made the list not just for it’s sweeping views of an incredible landscape but also for the memory of the time spent with my son and the tradition this hiked started for us. Every trip we have taken since, he asks if we can do a hike, just the two of us.
The spectacular view from Glacier Point. Half dome is on the left. Vernal falls and Nevada Fall are on the right.Close up of Half Dome, hovering over the valley.Close up of Vernal falls and Nevada Fall
After taking in the view from Glacier point and stopping in the gift shop to buy popsicles, we were ready to head down the trail. The trail started out wooded but soon opened up to sweeping views of the valley below.
As we made our way down the switchbacks in the trail the view continued, Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, repeat.
Closeup of Upper and Lower Yosemite falls
It was a great hike. We took advantage of magic hour on the mountain and still made it down with plenty of daylight left. Once back in the valley, my mileage tracker told us we had hiked just over 6 miles. So much for the 4-mile trail!
We crossed over the Merced River at Swinging Bridge and headed back to the lodge for a big dinner with the rest of our family.
Number 1-Angel’s Landing, Zion National Park, Utah
My husband and I have always climbed things. On our very first trip together, we stopped at a roadside attraction because the sign said: “Climb our tower!” In Astoria Oregon, we climbed their column. On our honeymoon, we climbed the Arc D’ Triumph. Our daughter climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower as a fetus. Space Needle, Sears Tower, World Trade Center, CN Tower, Empire State Building…..we have climbed them all. So it’s fitting that we started climbing mountains. If there is a hill in life to get over, we will do it together. So my favorite hike of all time was climbing Angel’s Landing for our 15th wedding anniversary.
This trail, located in Zion National Park, is no easy feat. Though only about 5 miles round trip, what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in elevation gain! I first heard of this trail on our family trip to Zion in 2017. I really wanted to climb it, but not with the kids. I decided then that I would just have to return to Utah in the next few years!
In October, there was still plenty of green foliage, but signs of fall were spreading.I look forward as we approach the first set of switchbacks.Here we paused to examine our progress.A look at the red rocks of Zion on a stretch of the trail known as refrigerator canyon.As we continue to climb, the trail snakes back through the canyon behind us.
This first leg of the trail continues to gain steadily in elevation ending with the super steep switchbacks know as Walter’s Wiggles. This part of the trail is pretty wide and affords hikers nice views. It terminates at Scout Lookout and some people choose to pause here and then head back down.
A look at other hikers ascending the wiggles.
The sandy “boot road” at Scout Lookout. This a good place to rest before heading out to the Landing.
Chains along the final leg of the trail were put in by the National Park Service to improve the safety of this hike.
Views along the way as we get closer!
The rocks were beautiful and popular with climbers. Look closely at the photo on the right!The canyon comes into view again in front of us.The view from the top!
Before heading back down, we paused on this stretch of rock. There was no one else on this lesser-traveled stretch of trail heading away from Angel’s Landing. We watched as the mid-day crowds arrived at Scout Lookout and scurried up Angel’s Landing in front of us and we marveled at this little evergreen, growing out of such adversity. It was a perfect moment to appreciate how far we had come and a reminder of our own triumphs over adversity.
