Author: Jennifer

Mesa Verde National Park

Wondering what tour to take while visiting Mesa Verde National Park? It is always a good idea to plan ahead. Visit the NPS website for the park, here. This is the best place to learn about what tours are currently available and what areas of the park may be closed. Then head to Recreation.gov to make your reservations! I recommend downloading the app and checking it often. Different parks have different booking windows and tours often sell out very quickly. Here is what we found to do!

Entering the Park

The park entrance sign and visitor center are located right off Colorado Route 160. The location of the visitor center can be found here. The furthest cliff dwellings are an hour’s drive from the visitor center, make sure you take this into account when planning your arrival time.

Where we stayed

One option to break up the driving and immerse yourself in Mesa Verde is to stay at the Far View Lodge. This is the only in-park lodging, located a half hour from the visitor center. We spent 2 nights here in 2021 and were very pleased with our stay.

view of Far View Lodge building

After our second day in the park, we dined in the Metate Dining room (reservations recommended, more info here) located in the Lodge’s registration building. The entire family loved their meals which contained a lot of locally inspired flavors.

view from balcony at Far View Lodge

Above is the view at sunset from our balcony at Far View Lodge. Not only did the lodge’s location get us closer to the cliff dwellings and maximize our time in the park, but the real show occurred after dark. Mesa Verde sits at the center of the darkest skies remaining in the contiguous United States.

Driving Mesa Top Ruins Road

Day 1, after leaving the visitor center and before checking into Far View Lodge around 4:00 pm, we made some stops along Mesa Top Ruins Road.

Knife Edge

From the Montezuma Valley Overlook, the remnants of an old park road can be viewed.

Park Point

Another pull-off along Mesa Top Ruins Road was Park Point. Here you are 8572 feet above sea level. It is the highest point in the park. On a clear day, 3 different mountain ranges are in view. We had haze due to forest fires in the west but it was still a great spot to stretch our legs on the short paved path up to the fire tower.

After checking in at the lodge, we ventured out to see our first cliff dwellings! From the lodge, there are two routes to cliff dwellings. Mesa Top Ruins Road continues for ten minutes from the lodge and splits into 2 loops just after the Spruce Tree House area. The left loop takes you to Cliff Palace, perhaps the park’s most famous dwellings. The right loop takes you to Square Tower House. Both loops contain several other stops as well.

The other route from the lodge is Wetherill Mesa Road. Though closed in 2023, this was the route we took to see Long House and Step House in 2021.

Spruce Tree House

We arrived at our first cliff dwelling during magic hour. The sandstone was beautifully bathed in the light of the setting sun. The view of Spruce Tree House below is just a short walk from the main parking lot. Also, accessible from this area are the Petroglyph Point trail and the Chapin Mesa Museum.

Cliff Palace from Sun Temple

In 2020, the portion of Mesa Top Ruins Road that looped by Balcony House and Cliff Palace was closed. There is a great view of Cliff Palace from the Mesa Top Loop Road, however. By driving this loop and stopping at Sun Temple, we were able to view Cliff Palace at sunset and then again the next day shortly after sunrise.

in the evening
in morning

Square Tower House

For our second day at the park, we started with the view of Cliff Palace from Sun Temple shown above and then headed around the Mesa Top Loop again to tour Square Tower House. This was one of the tours we booked in advance and due to the small size of the group, this tour sells out fast. It was totally worth it if you have the opportunity to go!

View of Square Tower accessible to everyone.
Reaching Square Tower required 3 different ladders!
The view approaching Square Tower House
The view looking away from Square Tower House

More information for the Square Tower House tour can be found here.

Square Tower House tour

Long House

Located on Wetherill Mesa, parking for Long House was 40 minutes away from where we ended our Square Tower House tour. It was fairly easy to do both on the same day. We booked the Square Tower tour first for 8:30 am. Then booked the Long House tour for 1:00 pm. Even with the drive between the two mesas, this gave us time to grab a quick lunch from our room between the two tours. Cliff Palace tours were not running in 2021 and Long House tours are not running in 2023 so make sure to always check the NPS site for the most up-to-date information.

The meeting point for the Long House tour was a 20-minute walk on a paved walkway from the parking lot. The trail to Long House is another 10-minute walk beyond that, so be sure to leave yourself enough time.

Rangers are located at different stops along the path through Long House. This was different from the single ranger that accompanied us to Square Tower. There were a lot more people on this tour but there were enough rangers to answer our questions. We were the first group, of the first tour, for the afternoon. Since there were no tours before us, it felt like we had the place to ourselves. If booking, you may want to select the first tour after lunch as well to have a more intimate experience.

Step House

Also located on Wetherill Mesa, this area is a self-guided walk-through a lesser-preserved cliff dwelling. Though not as intricate as Square Tower, Cliff Palace, or Long House this did not require an advanced ticket. The entrance is close to the parking lot for Long House so we checked it out before heading back to Far View for dinner.

Far View Area

One last stop was a small village of dwellings near the lodge, referred to as the Far View community. The Far View sites were believed to be established before the development of cliff dwellings by the Ancestral Pueblo people.

On day 3 we left the park early in the morning to head to our next destinations, the Four Corners Monument and Navajo Tribal Park, Hovenweep National Monument, Newspaper Rock, and finally Moab, Utah where we planned to hike the next day to Delicate Arch! Sign up below to follow along!

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Death Valley National Park-Two days to see the largest park in the continental US

Death Valley National Park is absolutely stunning! The vistas are varied. The mountains are majestic. The landscape is light and airy. We traveled to the California desert in February. This time of year the temperatures were cool and sunny; daytime highs were in the 70’s and the nighttime lows were in the 40’s. The weather was perfect for hiking and we did not encounter the crowds that are so often present during the summer in the parks. It was a very enjoyable trip. Here is what we found to do!

Sunrise at Zabriskie Point

We arrived at the park after dark the first night, greeted only by the luminous stars in the sky! I could not wait to see what the landscape we drove through the night before looked like. I was the first one up, well before the sun, and I convinced my 14-year-old to join me for sunrise at Zabriskie Point.

It was a chilly morning. Zabriskie Point is one of the most famous viewpoints in the park and should not be missed. The trail from the parking area to the overlook is less than half a mile but it does climb uphill. There is also a trailhead to the Gower Gulch Trail from this parking lot if you wish to avoid the crowds and cross the landscape to Golden Canyon. Information about looping this trail for a longer hike can be found at the NPS site here.

The day begins anew in Death Valley.
The spectacular colors painted over Badwater Basin and the Panamint Mountains as the sun rises.

The Ranch at Death Valley

Getting an early start is helped by staying in the park. We chose The Ranch at Death Valley. It is located in the Furnace Creek area on the east side of the park. The hotel room style accommodations were cramped but worth it for the location. Also on the grounds were a small grocery/gift shop, a couple of restaurants, a pool, a golf course, and a gas station. Make sure you fill up outside of the park, however, the cost of gas was over $7 a gallon (in 2022). The Furnace Creek Visitor Center is right next door.

Dante’s View

After returning from our sunrise trip, the whole family set out for Dante’s view. We retraced our drive from the previous night and took in the beautiful scenery. This also gave us a chance for a photo in front of the park sign!

Dante’s View was a 35-minute drive from the Ranch. It provided sweeping views of Badwater Basin below. Telescope Peak in the mountains across the valley was topped with snow. We walked to the end of the point at Dante’s view and then along the ridge trail toward Mount Perry. We had solitude and sunshine the whole way.

20 Mule Canyon

Our rental van, just off the road, as we explore 20 Mule Canyon on foot.

Driving northwest again on Rt 190 to head back toward Furnace Creek, we took the turnoff to drive through 20 Mule Canyon. This wasn’t one of my must-see stops but it was a very pleasant surprise! Again, we were alone on this 2.8 mile packed dirt road. At one point we pulled over and walked a bit on the parched land. This was the site of one of many borax mines; the shiny white traces of the mineral still present just beneath the surface in spots.

Sodium Borate or Borax

Coming from cold, grey days in western New York, it was very nice to just sit in the sun for a few minutes and enjoy the view.

Badwater Basin

This was my favorite stop of the day! We descended from an elevation of 5,575 feet at Dante’s View to 282 feet below sea level in Badwater Basin! I had been really looking forward to seeing the odd geometric shapes in the salt flats. This was the busiest spot we checked out that day and we also arrived around 1:00 pm, probably the busiest time of day. Venturing off the boardwalk, it seemed like the salt flats were too worn down by walkers to present the way I envisioned. I tightened my hat even tighter, it was really windy, and set out to pass all the people milling about to see if I could find a spot less trampled.

Look for the sea level sign!
Very Salty, “Badwater”

Success! I probably walked a little over a mile until there was no one in front of me anymore. The wind was still blowing fiercely but the warm sun kept it from chilling me. I was alone with the weird geometric salt pan spread out before me. Soon my family caught up and I snapped plenty of photos while they giggled in the windy playground of parched earth.

Here, the lowest point in America and the highest point in the continental United States are only 84 miles apart. The fascinating shapes on the ground below my feet are formed when groundwater rises up through the earth and evaporates, leaving behind the salty residuals from an ancient inland sea.

Natural Bridge

Driving back up Badwater Road now, there were so many spots to check out! Our next stop was the road to Natural Bridge. Though unpaved, we were able to make it the 1.5 miles with our rental van without a problem. From the parking lot, the trail to Natural Bridge is just under 1-mile, all uphill. The beautiful blue skies were a nice contrast to the canyon walls.

This was a short stop but definitely worth it in my opinion.

Devil’s Golf Course

Another quick stop, the Devil’s Golf Course was named for the odd and sometimes dangerously sharp mounds of salt that, again, form from the rising and evaporating groundwater.

Unique Salt formations

Artist’s Drive

Another detour off Badwater Road that is worth taking is Artist’s Drive. We made several stops along this scenic route.

An overlook, at the first pull off on Artist’s Drive

About 3 miles into the 9-mile artist’s drive, there is a little pull-off on the right. You will not find this canyon on the map but there is room for a few cars to park and explore this secret canyon here.

We hiked no more than half a mile in, but the kids enjoyed the rock scrambling along the way.

After leaving our secret canyon, the next stop was Artist’s Palette. The sun was getting lower in the sky which really brought the colorful hills alive.

Artist’s Palette is a commonly photographed vista in Death Valley. The different colors are caused by the oxidation of different minerals. Iron turns red, Manganese turns purple, and Mica turns green. Just like us, the hills glow when just dressed up a little.

Golden Canyon

Our last stop on our first day was Golden Canyon. The Golden Canyon Trail would have taken us right back to Zabriskie Point where our day started but we were losing daylight and only hiked in about a mile before retracing our steps. The whole network of trails through this area can be found here.

Golden Canyon is also of special interest to Star Wars fans. It was here that the Jawas carried R2-D2 away in the 1977 film, A New Hope.

My family enjoyed the scenery, even if the droids were no longer around.

It was a very busy, very satisfying first day in Death Valley. We headed back to the lodge as the sun set to lay out plans for Day 2.

Rt 190

No trip to Death Valley can take place without driving the long expanse of road known as California route 190. This road crosses the park covering some 81 miles from the eastern park entrance sign to the western park entrance sign. We drove the whole distance, some of the most visually pleasing images of that drive are shown below.

Salt Creek

Our first hike on day 2 was the Salt Creek Interpretive Trail. This .5 mile lollipop loop trail traces the quiet Salt Creek, home of the Salt Creek Pupfish. From the parking lot, a boardwalk path snakes over and around Salt Creek, which flows in winter and spring. The playful-looking pupfish were easy to spot in the creek. The have adapted to very warm waters as well as salinity twice that of the ocean.

The trailhead
Salt Creek Pupfish
Spring blooms in the desert

It was here, along Salt Creek, that the persistence of life really becomes obvious. Death Valley, despite its name, is not a harsh desert wasteland at all. It is full of plants and animals uniquely adapted to their environment, scratching out their lives, finding a way to survive. It should serve as a good reminder to humans that life is both fragile and resilient, that our environments dictate our success based on our unique strengths, and that unlike the pupfish, we can change that.

Mesquite Sand Dunes

As a kid, I thought desert meant sand as far as the eye can see. Though I have visited many desert regions, I had not encountered inland sand dunes until a trip to Great Sand Dune National Park in Colorado. The Mesquite Sand Dunes were just as grand. We arrived early to view the ripples in the sand free of foot prints, it was majestic.

U2 Joshua Tree Shrine

On a lark, I looked up the coordinates for the site of the U2 photo shoot for the album Joshua Tree. I learned that the tree was gone, but that a shrine had been erected amongst its decaying branches. I had to check it out.

Located just outside the western park entrance, the drive there itself was spectacular. I love Joshua Trees. If you do too, you can view more of them by visiting my post on what to do in Joshua Tree National Park here. I was pleasantly surprised to drive into the proper environmental conditions again in Death Valley and to see the trees with a dusting of fresh snow against the equally powdered mountains.

We found what we were looking for.

The shrine was easy to find and felt so adventurous! The GPS coordinates led to an open expanse, we just pulled off of CA 190 and started walking. If you are a fan of the band this is a cool stop to check out!

Darwin Falls

There is water in Death Valley! We took a rough dirt road two and a half-mile off the main route to get to the trailhead for Darwin Falls. We then hiked the roughly 1-mile trail to the waterfall.

My family was having a difficult time believing me when I said we were hiking to a waterfall. The hike started up the canyon through a dry creek bed. After half a mile, there was some green in the vegetation and we even saw some flowers blooming….but still not water.

Eventually, and almost out of nowhere, the ground became damp. The trees grew taller. We could hear and see songbirds! At about 18 feet high, Darwin Falls was indeed a unique spot to explore in Death Valley.

Devil’s Corn Field

A quick stop along Rt 190, these Arrowweed shrubs grow in formations that resemble bundled corn. Almost looking like they are planted in neat rows, this was an interesting enough roadside attraction to stop at and take a photo with the mountains behind them.

Sunset over the Mesquite Sand Dunes

The sun was setting on another adventure. The kids wanted to hit Mesquite Sand Dunes one more time in order to act out their own version of Luke Skywalker staring off into a Tatooine sunset (0r two, they believed the second sun was hidden behind the clouds). Cue in Binary Sunset by John Williams, I think they captured it pretty well.

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Finally Finding Moose

Traveling with children, the highlight is often the wildlife we encounter. We saw a bobcat in Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park and a grizzly bear in Glacier. Black bears were encountered in the Great Smokey Mountains, Yosemite, and Yellowstone. Bison were spotted in Theodore Roosevelt National park, Badlands, and Wind Cave. All of these were great sightings! What my family really wanted to see, however, were moose.

A journey to and through Rocky Mountain National Park

Traveling with children, the highlight is often the wildlife we encounter. We saw a bobcat in Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park and a grizzly bear in Glacier. Black bears were encountered in the Great Smokey Mountains, Yosemite, and Yellowstone. Bison were spotted in Theodore Roosevelt National park, Badlands, and Wind Cave. All of these were great sightings! What my family really wanted to see, however, were moose.

We had tried in the past. On a trip to Acadia National Park in Maine, we drove north of the Bar Harbor tourist area and booked a lodge on Moosehead Lake. Not just a deceiving name, moose were spotted regularly here. We didn’t want to leave it to luck, so we booked a tour with a local operator and went on a moose safari! Three hours on the backroads and waterways of Maine….. no moose. On another trip, we stayed in Grand Teton National Park at the Signal Mountain Lodge for 5 nights. Each morning the board at the various ranger stations would list the moose sightings the day before. On the trail past Inspiration Point through Cascade Canyon, we passed hikers going in the opposite direction who had just seen a large bull moose! We continued on….. no moose. We hoped to break this streak of mooselessness with a trip to Rocky Mountain National Park.

We have visited Rocky Mountain National Park twice. RMNP can be reached by 4 different entrances. In 2016, we took a day trip here from Denver, so we focused on the east side. We knew we wouldn’t be able to see it all in a day, so we saved the Bear Lake, Wild Basin, and west sides of the park and returned in 2021 for another trip. The western side is also known for its moose habitat. Here is what we found to do!

The East Side

We entered the park through the Fall River Entrance. We knew we wanted to drive up the winding Old Fall River Road which had just opened for the season the week before. Sometimes this road is still snow-covered into July. Our first stop, though, was the Alluvial Fan Trailhead.

The Alluvial Fan

There are plenty of rock scrambling opportunities on the Alluvial Fan.

If you have kids who like to scramble around rocks, this is the spot for you.

Endovalley picnic area

Since we were staying in Denver (a little over an hour away from the park entrance) on this trip, by the time we were done climbing rocks at the alluvial fan, the kids were already hungry. We pulled off at the Endovalley picnic area to eat our packed lunch. After eating we followed a path to a pretty little stream.

Old Fall River Road and Chasm Falls

Just after the Endovalley picnic area, the one-way Old Fall River Road begins. This unpaved road is an adventure in itself as it snakes its way from an elevation of 8,500 to 11,700 at the Alpine Ridge visitor center.

The packed dirt Old Fall River road

Highlights along the Old Fall River road drive include the 25-foot Chasm Falls and the elk that are often lolling about near the end of the road.

Chasm Falls
A handsome elk watching the cars pass on Old Fall River Road
Looking back down Old Fall River Road from the Alpine Visitor Center.

Alpine Ridge Trail

We arrived at the Alpine Visitor Center around 2:00pm. It was July 2nd, but the remains of the winter’s snow were still present. At the Alpine Visitor center, there are restrooms, a gift shop, interpretive exhibits, and a lovely veranda to just sit and enjoy the view. My favorite activity here was the Alpine Ridge Trail. Starting just steps from the parking lot, it takes you up over 400 stairs to reach an elevation of 12,005 feet.

At this elevation the trees give way to tiny alpine tundra plants. The small flowers are a testament to life’s perservence amidst the greatest difficulties.

Elk grazing as seen from the deck of the visitor center.

Tundra Communities Trail

After the vistitor center and alpine ridge trail, we started our descent on the Trail Ridge Road. This road traverses the entire park but we were using it to return to our starting point in Estes Park.

One stop we enjoyed was the Tundra Communities Trail. The hike is only 1 mile on a paved trail but the elevation and beautiful views make you want to take it nice and slow. A benchmark at the top helps one orient themself to the views in front of them but in my opinion, the tiny alpine tundra plants stole the show.

Hidden Valley

Back down below 10,000 feet, we stopped one final time to rest and enjoy the warmer air at the Hidden Valley picnic area. I am always a bit sad to leave a park but I was confident that we would return.

Between this trip and our more recent visit to Colorado, our family travels took us to Utah’s big 5, Acadia and northern Maine, Northern California, and Wyoming’s Yellowstone and Grand Teton Parks. We had encountered most of the North American megafauna but one animal was still eluding us, the moose.

The West Side

We returned to the park in 2021. It was our final destination on a road trip to visit all of Colorado’s National Parks. We spent two nights in a beautiful A-frame rental that we found on VRBO. It was 12 minutes to the trailhead for Adams Falls and 5 minutes to the Kawuneeche Visitor Center. The west side entrance of the park is near the town of Grand Lake. It was very charming and did not have the overwhelming crowds of Estes Park. I chose the rental I did because the listing displayed pictures of moose seen from the home!

First “sighting”

Up before the sun with excitement, I bundled up to enjoy my morning coffee on the deck. As the sun was rising, I heard munching in the brush 20 yards from the house. The light was still dim and I could not get a photo but my youngest came out to join me just in time to be treated to the flank of a retreating moose. Sighting number 1! They do exist! The rest of the family, however, was still skeptical.

Adams Falls

Leaving the kids to sleep in and have a relaxed breakfast, my husband and I drove to the other side of Grand Lake to hike the short trail to Adams Falls. The parking area can be found here. Though this trail does not require driving into the park through a major entrance, a valid park pass is still required. Information about purchasing passes can be found here. When timed entry passes are required in addition to the standard park pass, this is a trailhead that can still be accessed at any time.

The short hike to Adams Falls is only .3 miles.

After exploring the falls, we ventured along the East Inlet Trail. The trail followed the East Inlet a bit before passing through an open meadow and then entering into some thicker forests. Back in the forest, about 50 feet off the trail, moose number two was lurking, munching her way through the vegetation.

The elusive moose.

Trail Ridge Road

We scooped up the kids from the rental and set off to see the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park. We picked up the Trail Ridge Road, intent on covering all the ground we had missed out on 5 years before. After passing through some burn scar, including a partially destroyed entrance gate, from the fall 2020 East Troublesome fire, our first stop was the Coyote Valley Trail. This pleasant 1-mile trail is flat and wheelchair/stroller accessible. It also gave us a chance to get up close to the Colorado River.

A walk along the Coyote Valley Trail
The mighty Colorado River, not far from its headwaters.

Lake Irene Picnic Area

Our lunch stop for the day was the Lake Irene Picnic Area. Parking was a bit crowded but once we found a spot there were plenty of open picnic tables. After eating we strolled down to the lake and this was where we had our best moose sighting yet!

As we walked along the edge of the water, a mother moose brought her calf down to the water’s edge on the opposite side of the lake. We stood and just watched for a very long time.

The return to the Alpine Ridge Trail

Our goal for the day, other than finding moose, was to make it back to the Alpine Visitor Center. After a stop at the gift shop, I convinced the boys to hike the Alpine Ridge Trail with me again. It was August 13th and it was just starting to snow!

Here comes the snow!

We retraced our path back to Grand Lake, satisfied that we had now traveled all of Trail Ridge Road and satisfied with our grand moose sighting! But before leaving the park, we spotted moose numbers 5 and 6!

Then moose number 7…the end.

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Delicate Arch Daydream

Dreaming of visiting the iconic delicate arch in Utah’s Arches National Park? I was after a quick trip in 2017 allowed us time to drive through the park but not hike this staple of Utah license plates! We had the opportunity to visit Moab again in 2021. Here is what we found to do!

Get there early!

This is a popular hike and we were visiting in early August. To beat the heat and the crowds we were in the park by sunrise. The warm, early morning light danced on the red rocks making for surreal colors all around. At 6:30 am, the sun was just coming up and the parking lot was already half full. We took our time getting gear on, plenty of water is a must, and using the facilities at the trailhead. As we started the hike, the sun was a glowing red ball in front of us.

The trail!

There are two areas to view Delicate Arch. One takes you to a viewpoint with the arch just visible one mile away. A better view is achieved by taking the 3-mile hike to the base of the arch. The hike is exposed and can be very warm in the summer or very icy in the winter. It gains almost 500 feet in elevation but the effort is very much worth the experience of being up close to this geologic wonder.

The approach!

  • Twisted Doughnut Arch
  • Delicate Arch seen through the Twisted Doughnut

After climbing for about a mile, the path levels off. For a neat first view of Delicate Arch, don’t miss Twisted Doughnut Arch. Located on the right near the end of the trail, it is a quick climb to peer at Delicate Arch through its opening.

Another unnamed arch is in the distance as we get ready to round the final bend before Delicate Arch.

Enjoying the Delicate Arch!

Arches National Park’s Delicate Arch

Delicate arch seemed bigger than it looked in photos. The opening beneath the arch is 46 feet high. It sits atop a giant sandstone bowl that allows the many people who hike this way to spread out in a circle in front of it. Walking around the edge of this bowl and climbing up some of the surrounding rocks give several different perspectives.

We spent at least an hour here, just taking it all in before the easy hike back down. The 4 years it took to return to Arches National Park was definitely worth the wait.

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Weekend Getaway in Tucker County West Virginia

Getting there

This trip fulfilled a long time dream… traveling with my best friend and her family! A journey filled with stops, good music, and constant conversation is part of the fun! Tucker county was a 5-hour drive from home so we picked a picnic spot just over halfway there for lunch and a little sightseeing. Ohiopyle State Park was the perfect fit, definitely a destination in itself. On this trip, we checked out the Tharp Knob Picnic Area and Cucumber Falls. Perhaps this will be a destination in itself in the future!

View from Tharp Knob with the town of Ohiopyle below.

Ohiopyle State Park is full of recreational activities. We just picnicked and explored one of the many waterfalls while stretching our legs. Both Tharp Knob and Cucumber Falls were short stops right off of Ohiopyle Road. You could see the view or the waterfall in as little as 15 minutes or relax at either for the whole afternoon.

A great stop on our way to West Virginia, Ohiopyle State Park!
Cucumber Falls in Ohiopyle State Park

Where to Stay in Tucker County

For this trip, we rented a home through Airbnb. I have found that areas of the country that have ski resorts are great places to look for vacation rentals in the summer months. There are often a lot of places to choose from even just a month or two in advance. If you are looking for a last-minute summer trip, find a ski town and check out what Airbnb has to offer. We chose a home near Timberline Mountain ski resort in a private homeowners association. The location was secluded and came with the use of two ponds to kayak on (we brought our own kayaks) and access to private trails and trails in the Dolly Sods wilderness. The rental agency was easy to work with and if traveling to the area again, I would book directly with them at Mountain Top Realty.

Views around one of the private ponds in the Old Timberline community.
Private hiking trails around the second pond in the Old Timberline community.
Road from rental home leading up to the Dolly Sods wilderness area.
View from the Valley View Trail bordering the Old Timberline community and the Dolly Sods Wilderness.

Activities

One of our favorite stops in Tucker County was Blackwater Falls State Park. You can read more about our visit here.

Blackwater Falls
View from Lindy Point in Blackwater Falls State Park

Another great place to explore, if you like hiking, is the Dolly Sods Wilderness. We only saw a couple of miles of this area but it is definitely worth the trip by itself.

Views from the Valley View trail en route to the Rocky Ridge trail in the Dolly Sods Wilderness
Rocky Ridge trail

We were visiting in late June and were fortunate enough to coincide with Mountain Laural blooming at that elevation. The groves of Mountain Laurel we encountered were simply breathtaking.

Mountain Laurel Grove on the Harmon trail, just off of the Rocky Ridge trail

Everyone’s favorite activity this trip was the float trip we took down the Cheat River. We booked with Blackwater Outdoor Adventures the day before. This tour company offers both whitewater and flatwater adventures on the Cheat River near Parsons, West Virginia.

Tubing on the Cheat River

Tucker County History

With so much outdoor adventure nearby, this was a great destination for our families. Beyond the outdoors, Tucker County offers up some interesting history as well. Once an impenetrable wilderness, the first non-natives to the area were attracted by the fur trade. Next, railroad and lumber interests combined to make the area more accessible and commercial. Tucker County soon housed mills, banks, tanneries, and hotels.

By 1930, Tucker County forests had been clear cut, stripped of easily mined coal, and had no more animals valued for their fur. People had wiped it clean of any value. The town of Davis was called a stump town, there were no trees, only stumps. An area high school, built on land riddled with mine shafts, collapsed into one. Fortunately, it was a school holiday and no one was hurt.

The rise and fall happened quickly. Neither the original industry nor the destruction was in evidence on our trip. What I liked best about the area’s history was experiencing the land that rose like a phoenix out of the literal ashes firsthand. Everywhere we went was beautiful. People had stripped it bare, felt the loss, and allowed it to regrow and be repurposed. It was in the end, beautiful.

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Blackwater Falls State Park

View of Blackwater Falls from the east side overlook.

Located in northeastern West Virginia, Blackwater Falls State Park is a worthy destination on its own. Combined with the beauty of the surrounding area and plenty of hiking in nearby Canaan Valley State Park, Dolly Sods Wilderness, and Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge, this is a must-see area of the country!

Here are our favorite stops in Blackwater Falls State Park.

Blackwater Falls

The park’s namesake waterfall did not disappoint. It was easy to get to and suitable for all ages. It did not require any hiking, but there were boardwalks with a lot of stairs to get to the best views. The park map states that the boardwalk is .25 miles long. The parking area for the falls, as well as a gift shop and concessions, can be found here.

Boardwalk to falls, interpretive sign, and views of Blackwater Falls

Blackwater Falls is the tallest waterfall in West Virginia at a height of 57 feet. The Blackwater River is named for its chocolate brown color which comes from the tannins released from Hemlock and other trees in the area. I read that there is a lot of iron oxide in the surrounding shale which also contributes to the river’s color. Despite the brown hue of the river, the falls themselves were very white.

Flowing over 30 miles from where it originates in the Canaan Valley and dropping 1500 feet over the 8-mile distance of the Blackwater Canyon, the Blackwater River has carved a beautiful story into the hundreds of million-year-old Allegheny Mountains. After leaving the park it flows into the Cheat River, which is known for its tubing and whitewater trips, and then merges into the Monongahela before becoming the Ohio and eventually the Mississippi.

Blackwater falls in late June
The boardwalk to the falls consists of more than 200 steps down. Don’t forget you will need to return by climbing back up them!

Elakala Falls

Behind the Blackwater Resort within the park is a short trail to Elakala Falls. Elakala Falls is on Shays Run, shortly before it enters the Blackwater River. Though there are a series of falls on Shays Run, we only followed the path to the first, most accessible one. At 35 feet, it is considered the second most popular fall in the park.

Elakala Falls

Lindy Point Overlook

Lindy Point trailhead

For our final stop of the day, we drove to the western end of the southern side of the park. Located here is the trailhead for Lindy Point Overlook. This was another short trail with a big payout. For just under half a mile we walked a path through thick mountain laurel and rhododendrons, some of them in bloom! Most of the path was packed dirt but in some softer areas, a boardwalk had been installed.

Mountain Laurel and Rododendrens in bloom along the path to Lindy Point

The walk was short enough that we carried a picnic super to the overlook. We took our time at the end soaking in the views, the company, and the endless green expanse in front of us.

The view from Lindy Point

Here, at our last stop in the park, amidst an impossible amount of green, it is difficult to think that these mountains and this gorge have ever looked any different. But what I have found in my travels is that a changing environment is the norm, not the exception. In the 1800s, Tucker County West Virginia was heavily logged and mined. By the early 1900s, the ridges were clear-cut to the point of constant burning and total erosion of the topsoil. This short-sighted use of the land was put to an end in 1920 with the creation of the Monongahela National Forest and Blackriver State Park was created within this boundary in 1937. Today, the area sees an increase in interest from nature-centered tourism and for this I am grateful. What man can destroy, man can also learn to protect.

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Kayaking Bear Lake

Check out this quiet lake with a navigable outlet in western New York!

How to get to Bear Lake

Bear Lake is the smallest of the 5 lakes located in Chautauqua County. It also has a shoreline that is bordered mostly by undeveloped wetlands. This beautiful, quiet setting is perfect for a kayak trip!

Sign marking the parking area for the boat launch

To get to Bear Lake, travel north of Stockton, New York on Rt 380. After about 1.5 miles, veer right onto Bear Lake Road as Rt 380 turns left. Bear Lake Road turns left after about 1 mile and the parking lot will be visible on the left as you begin to see the lake in front of you. Parking here accommodates 10 vehicles.

Walkway and kayak launch

From the parking area, there is a very short paved walk to the launch. The new launch is accessible and very easy to use. After launching, we paddled by some lake front cottages along a narrow passage before the lake opened up before us.

Bear Lake is a kettle lake which means it formed at the end of the last ice age when a large block of ice melted over the area. According to the DEC website the average depth is only about 15 feet but the lake provides excellent habitat for a variety of fish.

What we enjoyed most about kayaking Bear Lake was exploring the undeveloped wetlands surrounding the lake. At around 140 acres with 2.5 miles of shoreline, it was the right size for kayak exploration. We could see it all without a lot of other boat traffic. Motor boats are permitted and many of the houses had pontoon boats docked there, but we saw only one motor boat with a water skier during our outing.

Heading toward the outlet

Our favorite part of the adventure was exploring the outlet. It was thick with water lilies and ended at a beaver dam. There were lot’s of birds to listen to and as it twisted and turned it made you wonder what was around each bend.

We spent about 3 hours on the water. The time passed quickly, it was one of those activities where one is completely present in the moment. Pure bliss.

Beaver dam on the outlet

All good things come to an end, but this is an adventure that I will seek out again for the peace and tranquility it offers.

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5 Favorite Hikes in Shenandoah National Park

The view from the Summit of Old Rag in Shenandoah National Park

Though there are few national parks on the east coast, Shenandoah National Park is a great one. I have visited several times and although I have not hiked all the trails (there are more than 500 miles of trails), I do have some favorites. Here is what we found to do!

Skyline drive through Shenandoah has wonderful pull-offs and interesting stone work along its 105 miles.

No trip to Shenandoah National Park would be complete without a drive along Skyline Drive. For some visitors, that is all they do. We like to venture off the road and have found hikes we like for all skill levels.

Dark Hollow Falls

A favorite to hike with kids is the Dark Hollow Falls trail. It is short, shady, and offers a 70 foot waterfall. Though pretty steep, you arrive at the falls after only .7 miles.

Though a shorter hike, snacks for kids before the way back up is a good thing to have along.

Parking for the Dark Hollow Falls trail is between mileposts 50 and 51, here. After a hike, the Byrd Visitor Center just down Skyline Drive makes a great stop.

Dark Hollow Falls

For more information about this trail, visit the NPS site.

Pink Azaleas in bloom at the end of May

Stony Man

Some of the wildlife on the trail to Stony Man

We took advantage of a free, range-led hike from the Skyland area of the park to the Stony Man viewpoint. These programs change often, check the NPS website to help you plan for your own trip. This 1.6-mile round trip hike takes you along a portion of the Appalachian Trail as well. You can read more about this hike here on the NPS site.

Views from the Stony Man viewpoint

Rose River Falls

The hike to Rose River Falls was a 4-mile circuit making it longer than both the Dark Hollow and Stony Man hikes. The waterfall, though over 60 feet high, was obscured by trees and it was not easy to access its base. Still, we liked this hike because it followed the shallow Rose River for quite a while giving us ample opportunity to rest, cool off, and just reflect.

The 67-foot Rose River Falls

Parking for Rose River Falls can be found between milepost 49 and 50 near the Fisher’s Gap overlook. For a more detailed map, see the NPS page here.

Hawksbill Summit via Upper Hawksbill trail

Hawksbill Summit is the highest point in Shenandoah National Park at 4049 feet. There are 3 different ways to hike to the summit. Two of the trails start at the Hawksbill Gap parking lot between mileposts 45 and 46. The third hike begins from the Upper Hawksbill parking area past milepost 46. We chose this 3rd route because our kids were small at the time and this 2.1-mile hike was less steep or shorter than the other options. All 3 trails are clearly marked on the NPS site here.

Heading up to Hawksbill summit
The view from Hawksbill summit

Old Rag

For my favorite hike in Shenandoah National Park, we left the kids at home! The hike up Old Rag is a very strenuous 9.4 mile circuit, that sometimes requires scrambling over large boulders with all 4 limbs.

Starting up the mountain, a bridge toward the end of the circuit.

Trail access for Old Rag does not start from Skyline Drive, a detailed map and parking directions can be found at the NPS site here.

The view as we begin the rock scramble.
Making our way over the rocks.
Climbing above the clouds!
The view from the summit of Old Rag
Walking through the forest on the way back down.

Where to Stay

We have stayed in 2 different areas when visiting Shenandoah National Park. I love in-park lodging because it gets you that much closer to the trails. For that reason, we chose the Skyland Resort on our first visit.

Our cabin at Skyland and a young bear spotted from the deck.

On our trip to Old Rag we stayed outside the park, near the trailhead. We found a great B&B online, Sharp Rock Vineyards.

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Great Spring Wildflower Destinations near WNY

April showers have brought May flowers. Grab a field guide, pick a trail, and get out there. These wildflowers are only here for a short time! Here are some of my favorite places for spring wildflower hikes.

Jamestown Community College, College Park

Marsh Marigold

Located within the city of Jamestown, Jamestown Community College Park (also referred to as the 100 Acre Lot) is a trove of diversity in the midst of an urban area. Trails can be accessed from JCC’s campus or from the parking area here along Curtis Ave Ext.

Trout Lily, Sessile Bellwort
Dwarf Ginseng and Red Trillium

The park surrounds both sides of Moon Brook and is a great place to take kids to splash on a warm summer day. In spring however, the wildflowers steal the show.

Jack-in-the-pulpit
Spring Beauty, Large-flowered or White Trillium, Toothwort

I walked the trails on the first weekend in May this year and saw more than 15 different wildflowers, many of which are pictured here.

Bird’s-Eye Speedwell

Bent Run Waterfall, Allegheny National Forest

Red Trillium, Painted Trillium

Located outside of Warren Pennsylvania, this easy-to-miss stop is right across Route 59 from the Kinzua Dam. There is a small parking area here.

  • Toothwort
Toothwort and Solomon’s Seal

The bonus to this wildflower stop is the waterfall! Bent run cascades down the steep hillside creating a calm, picturesque scene as you walk along looking for wildflowers. It is less than a mile, though very steep, to where Bent run levels out at the top but even if you just parked at the bottom and traveled a few steps, you would get a nice look at the waterfall. Both wildflowers and water flow are best in spring!

Bent Run waterfalls

Jamestown Audubon

Skunk Cabbage

I love this place so much! It is great ANY time of year but it is nice to see wildflowers blooming here each spring, just like the return of old friends.

Spring Beauty and Painted Trillium

The Jamestown Audubon has plenty of parking and trail use is free of charge. You can find out more information about the organization and its mission here.

Marsh Marigold

My favorite trail for spring wildflowers is the newer backwoods trail. It is marked in purple on map found here.

Goldthread, Starflower buds

Long Point State Park

Trout Lily

Long Point State Park is located on the shore of Chautauqua Lake. Popular for its boat launch, the extensive trails are often overlooked. This is another great setting for early spring wildflowers! A trail map from the NYS parks website can be found here.

Toothwort, Large-flowered or White Trillium, Mayapple
Bloodroot

Zoar Valley

Red Trillium

This is another area that I have really enjoyed visiting in all seasons. You can read about it here.

Foamflower

For this trip, we used the Valentine Flats access road and parking. In spring, the creek levels maybe too high and the water too cold to walk in the creek. The steep slopes along the walk down to the gorge protect many different wildflower species from deer making this another great spot to see a lot of biodiversity.

Golden Ragwort
Wild Geranium
False Solomon’s Seal

One added bonus to this spot is the greatest number of Jack-in-the-Pulpits that I have ever seen! Watch your step and tread lightly to protect these interesting plants.

Jack-in-the-pulpit

McConnell’s Mills State Park

Large-flowered or White Trillium

This spot is a little farther south so its flowers are blooming in April. It is a great day trip if you are getting impatient for spring in WNY. Located between Meadville and Pittsburgh PA, this park has a lot to offer including a covered bridge, waterfalls, and miles of hiking trails. I suggest parking at the Kildoo Picnic area. From there you can walk down to the covered bridge and hike the 3-mile trail that loops each side of Slippery Rock Creek.

Red Trillium and Trout Lily

Where are your favorite spots for spring wildflowers? Share your favorite spot below and don’t forget to subscribe so that you never miss an adventure!

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Best Family Activities in and around Holland Michigan!

So many beaches! Who needs the ocean when Lake Michigan provides so many beach destinations on the western side of the state of Michigan? We visited in July and there were plenty of activities both on and off the beach in Holland Michigan. Here is what we found to do!

Riley Beach

This tiny little public beach was just across the road from the house we rented through Airbnb. Though there was plenty of free parking here, I would not make this a destination. The benefit of Holland’s location along Lake Michigan means there are a lot of little spots like this. Find the one nearest you and enjoy a swim or catch a sunset!

Riley Trails

Another great spot along Riley Street is Riley Trails found here. You wouldn’t know from the photos but this area surrounds a closed and capped landfill! The county has turned an eyesore into a public asset. It was a beautiful place for a morning walk.

A map of the various hiking and biking trails can be found here. This area is primarily used for hiking, mountain biking, and cross-country skiing in the winter. There is no fee and plenty of parking and the trails are open from dawn to dusk.

Trail surfaces vary from packed dirt to crushed stone.

Holland State Park Beach

This beach has ample parking, restrooms, concessions, and the best views of Big Red. All this convenience brings crowds but it was still a great spot for a picnic, a swim, and some games in the sand. More information can be found here.

Tunnel Park

Named for the concrete tunnel through the dune, Tunnel Park is a great beach for younger children for many reasons. First and foremost is the cool concrete tunnel through the dune. Not only will kids enjoy the echos, it also removes the need to drag beach supplies up and over the dune.

Stairway over the dune at Tunnel Park.

For those without small children or anyone desiring more of a workout, there is also a stairway over the dune that leads to a beautiful elevated view of Lake Michigan and then continues to the beach below.

The view from the top of the boardwalk at Tunnel Park.

Besides the beach, Tunnel Park is also great for kids because of the large grassy area with a playground, picnic tables, shady trees, and restrooms. There is a parking fee here in the summer but it is well worth it for a day spent at this park. All this can be found here.

Beach view at Tunnel Park

Mt Pisgah

Mount Pisgah was a fun, adults-only early morning walk, not because it wouldn’t be great for kids too, but because sometimes it’s just nice to enjoy a bit of quiet before starting the day. There was ample parking just past the trailhead here.

We arrived by 7:30am and saw only a few other visitors who were using the boardwalk for exercise. The 200+ steps take visitors up 157 feet to sweeping views of Lake Macatawa, Lake Michigan, and the Big Red Lighthouse.

Holland State Park Beach and Big Red in the distance.

The distance to the overlook is only .4 miles. From this point though, one can continue on and make a lollipop loop through the wooded dune for a round trip of just under 2 miles. Alltrails ranks this hike as easy.

Fresh donuts from the Ottawa Beach General Store

After working up an appetite the Ottawa Beach General Store had fresh donuts and coffee. This is also a great spot to bring kids for ice cream later in the day!

Ludington State Park

A walk up the beach at Ludington Beach State Park

This was one of the most beautiful parks I have ever visited. We spent a whole day here and I hope to return someday to explore even more. You can read more about our day at Ludington Beach State Park here.

Dutch Village

This cute little park exceeded our expectations. To be honest, we were not sure what to expect. We were drawn to the Hollandness of this attraction and the reduced admission price. We figured it would be worth it just to walk around and it definitely was.

There was definitely a kitschy feel to the place. But that was part of the charm! We tried on wooden shoes, learned Dutch dances, tasted cheeses, and raced in tandem skis with wooden shoes attached to them!

Wooden shoes in every size!

We made the assumption that our kids were too old for kiddie rides but I guess you never really outgrow a carousel or ferris wheel.

There was also a nice petting area with goats, sheep, chickens, pigs, rabbits, and a llama! The kids hung with the kids! We sampled fudge and listened to the large 1800’s street organ. You can visit their website here to plan your own Dutch Village adventure!

Saugatuck Dunes State Park

The walk to this secluded beach from the parking and picnic area is nearly a mile but once you are there you will be treated to two and a half miles of beautiful Lake Michigan shoreline. This scenic area can be found 10 miles south of Holland. Turn onto 138th Street and follow it to State Park Drive.

Pack a backpack with your favorite beach gear and spend the day swimming and building sandcastles. If walking in nature is more your style, this park has over 1000 acres including coastal dunes over 200 feet high, and covered with a mix of trees and grass. Like other Michigan State Parks, a $12 annual recreation passport is required for Michigan residents. Out of state visitors can pay a $9 single-day fee.

The park contains over 14 miles of hiking trails.
Sone of the dunes in Saugatuck State Park are 200 feet high.

Windmill Gardens

Another essential stop for embracing Holland’s Dutch roots and history is Windmill Gardens. This beautiful park bordering downtown Holand is a great place to relax or pick up some Holland, MI souvenirs.

The main attraction of the Gardens is the Windmill itself. Named DeZwann or The Swan, this 250-year-old working windmill arrived in Holland Michigan from the Netherlands in 1964. It is both the last windmill to leave the Netherlands and the only working Dutch windmill in the United States.

What I thought was especially powerful about this windmill was that an original blade was laying beside it, riddled with bullet holes from when it served as a lookout tower during World War II.

Before leaving, we wandered through the shops and picked out our own little pair of wooden shoes which they engraved for us.

Laketown Beach

Some of the 350 stairs to Lake Michigan

An elaborate walkway over the dunes, at times covered in sand, takes you to a quiet beach nestled amid private property. Parking along a dead-end road can be found here. Though the steep climb and number of stairs might make this a poor choice for a full day at the beach with all the required gear, the views from the top make this a great spot for photos or quiet contemplation.

There are 350 stairs going up and over the fragile dunes. The stairs not only make the trek easier, they protect the dunes.

Views traveling up and over the dunes.

There are no restroom facilities at this location but the limited parking is free. What I liked best about this out of the way park was the peace and solitude.

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