October 2020 brought us to Frenchtown, NJ for a couple’s weekend while the kids stayed with Oma for the weekend! Why Frenchtown? It was within a 6-hour drive, had plenty of outdoor activity nearby, and was in a state that did not require us to quarantine after we returned! I did a quick google search for the best small towns and Frenchtown met our requirements! Frenchtown sits right on the Delaware River which forms the border between western New Jersey and eastern Pennsylvania.
I booked three nights at the National Hotel. We arrived after 9:00pm the first night, but the dining room was open until 10:00. I loved the feel of renting a room above the restaurant in this old hotel. The service was great and the staff were all friendly.
Day 1
The next day was a beautiful fall day. We took a walk along the Delaware River and the Uhlerstown-Frenchtown bridge which crosses the river. Then we had breakfast at the Frenchtown Cafe before heading out on our bikes to explore the Delaware and Raritan bike path.
The bike path! Wow, what a great find. There are actually two paths, one on each side of the river. The D&R Canal towpath trail is on the New Jersey side and the Delaware Canal towpath trail is on the Pennsylvania side. Both paths are about 60 miles long and there are multiple bridges across the river so you can spend a few hours or a whole day making a loop or figure 8’s along the trails.
There was beautiful scenery on both sides of the Delaware river. The New Jersey side was wider, with the Pennsylvania side often being only wide enough for a single bike, but both sides were equally scenic.
There were a lot of well preserved remnants of the the days when canals in this area were essential for bringing resources to manufacturing centers during the industrial revolution. The D&R canal transported freight between Philadelphia and New York. The Delaware Canal has retained most all of its features from its operations in the 1800’s even though the last paid canal fare was in 1931 when railroads overtook canals as a means of efficient transport.
We rode our bikes from Frenchtown on the D&R towpath trail to the pedestrian bridge at Bull Island. We crossed the river here but continued south and crossed again to arrive in the quiet town of Stockton, NJ. We stopped for lunch at the Stockton Market, an indoor farmer’s market with an eclectic mix of offerings.
Ecuadorian “lazana” for lunch! 
Dessert from the chocolate counter!
After lunch we headed back north, crossed the pedestrian bridge again to bike up the Delaware Canal towpath trail on the Pennsylvania side of the river. We finished 28 miles of biking with a great covered bridge before crossing one more time back into Frenchtown.
After our busy day of biking, we dined at the Frenchtown Inn. To encourage greater social distancing, they converted outdoor space into a unique dining experience. It was a relaxing meal with a view of the bridge and the Delaware River.
Day 2
Day 2 was a drive to investigate a nearby county park, the surrounding area, and Washington Crossing Historic Park.
Ringing Rocks County Park was a little gem of a place. The highlight was its boulder field full of rocks that resonate different pitches when hit. The rocks showed scars from all the attempts at making music here!
The trail at Ringing Rocks formed a loop that took you around the boulder field and past a seasonal waterfall. The trail was wooded and well marked.
After hiking the roughly 1-mile loop around ringing rocks we took a scenic drive through eastern PA to pass through the Frankenfield covered bridge on our way to Washington Crossing Historic Park.
After reading 1776 by David McCullough a few years ago, I had a vivid mental picture of what George Washington’s Christmas crossing of the Delaware was like. I was excited to find that the location was not far from Frenchtown while I was planning this trip. On the drive there we passed signs for Bowman’s Hill Tower and made a quick stop there. There is an entrance fee and they recommend reserving an entrance time online in advance. The website can be found here.
The majority of the park was just a short drive down the road from the tower. The park preserves several buildings present during the 1776 crossing. My favorite was McConkey’s Inn, located right next to the Delaware River. The sign said that this inn was where Washington and his aides ate dinner prior to the crossing.
The common thread running through the sights we visited was the power of transformation. This area was transformed from untamed wild, to purposed for human use, to abandonment, to a balance between their history, preservation, and enjoyment. May we all find this balance in our travels. May we pay tribute to the past with an eye for sustainable balance in the future.
