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Ludington State Park, Michigan

This park was gorgeous! Immaculate sandy beaches, naturally scenic dunes, a classic lighthouse, and nearly unlimited recreational activities….this park had it all. Wedged between Lake Michigan and the 5000-acre Hamlin Lake, this park is Michigan’s best. We spent a day here on a summer trip to Michigan’s western coast but this is an area we will definitely return to. Here is what we found to do!

The Beach

The main entrance to the park can be found at the end of Michigan Rt 116. From there we veered left and headed straight to beach parking. Though there were plenty of spaces before 11:00 am, I imagine it fills up on a summer weekend.

Pristine lakefront just steps from the main beach area.

The Lake Michigan beach area had a bathhouse complete with restrooms, concessions, and interpretive exhibits. The best part of this beach though was the pristine shoreline stretching 7 miles up the coast of Lake Michigan. It was one of the most beautiful beach walks I have ever taken.

The kids spent the afternoon swimming in the lake and we all enjoyed a picnic lunch in the sand. Parking was close enough to the beach area that we could leave coolers and extra tools in the van and just carry our beach chairs to the sand.

Hiking

As it began to cool down in the late afternoon, we decided to stretch our legs with a hike. Ludington State Park has over 20 miles of trails through forests and wetlands, over dunes, along beaches, and across boardwalks. We wanted to see Big Sable Point Lighthouse but didn’t want grumpy hikers, so we opted for the ROAD to the lighthouse, not the TRAIL to the lighthouse.

The road to Big Sable Point Lighthouse, accessible only by bike or on foot.

The packed gravel and sand-covered road to the lighthouse starts at the far left end of the Pines Campground. There is also a more strenuous trail over dunes with great views of Lake Michigan that begins in the Beechwood Campground area. The road is 1.8 miles one-way, the trail is slightly longer. You can check out a map of trails here before choosing the best one for you.

The road to the lighthouse passes several interdunal ponds. These areas were active with wildlife such as the Bald Eagle we spotted below.

It took us about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace to reach the lighthouse.

Big Sable Point Lighthouse

Built in 1867 and given its classic black and white paint in 1900, this lighthouse shown its light to mariners as far as 19 miles out. Restored in 1987 after a preservation association was formed, today it is a lovely building in a lovely setting.

At 112 feet, the Big Sable Point Lighthouse is one of the tallest in Michigan. Throughout the year, tours can be purchased and you can climb the 130 steps to the top or just shop the gift shop in the original keepers quarters.

History

After visiting the park, I was curious about the history of Hamlin Lake. Not surprisingly, I learned that the area was originally purchased for logging interests, and the dam creating Lake Hamlin was originally erected to create a holding pond for logs. The area that is now Ludington State Park was once the short-lived village of Hamlin. In the mid-1800s, the area contained mills, boardinghouses, a schoolhouse, and many homes. In the late 1800s, after two dam breaks that washed many homes into Lake Michigan and the decline of the lumber industry, the village of Hamlin all but disappeared. The few buildings that remained were removed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s to make way for the new state park.

Like my recent visit to Hume Lake in Kings Canyon National Park, I was struck by how nature not only reclaimed an area that humans tried to dominate but how humans had also been altered in the exchange. When both of these areas were stripped of their trees and nature fought back, people changed their relationship with the land. They found recreation and preservation worthwhile and dominance and destruction were given up. May we continue to connect to the land and not dominate and destroy it.

So many reasons to return!

In addition to the activities we enjoyed during our day trip here, this park has so much more to offer. From biking trails and bike rentals to a whole separate beach area on Hamlin Lake and from fishing along the Big Sable River to kayaking and canoeing trails, this is a park that I hope to return to someday!

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Kings Canyon National Park

After a couple of days in Sequoia National Park (you can check out that post here), we drove north on the General’s Highway to check out Kings Canyon National Park. I wasn’t even sure if the road connecting the two parks would be open in April, so this drive was a bonus! In preparing for this trip, I read that snow can occur at any moment and can close portions of the road. Even though there was still plenty of snow at higher elevations, the road was clear and the temperatures were in the mid 70’s! Here is what we found to do!

The distance between the General Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park and Grant Grove and the General Grant Tree in Kings Canyon National Park is only 30 miles but the drive took over an hour. It was very scenic with pull offs for beautiful vistas and tall tree groves. If traveling between the two parks, make sure to allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy the journey.

Grant Grove

Grant Grove is a must see in Kings Canyon National Park. It is also a great stop for food, souvenirs, restrooms. After checking out the aforementioned comfort stops in Grant Grove, the General Grant tree is the next stop to make. You can walk the roughly one mile trail from Grant village or drive to the Grant Grove lot. We chose to walk in order to stretch our legs. This might also be a better choice when the park is busier in the summer and parking is harder to find.

The General Grant Sequoia Tree. This is the 2nd largest tree in the world.

I really enjoyed Grant Grove. It was less crowded than the giant sequoia grove surrounding the General Sherman Tree. The General Grant tree is listed as the 2nd largest tree in the world by volume, though this is based only on the trunk. If the branches were considered, another tree found in Sequoia National Park would bump General Grant to third.

Also on this trail is the Fallen Monarch. It is an enormous sequoia that can be walked through and nearby interpretive signs show people have been doing this for a long time!

We headed further north until we reached the entrance to Cedar Grove. Being only April, this road wasn’t open yet but we were surprised to find the road to Hume Lake was and we decided to follow it. This was a great idea! After driving a short distance there were some pull-offs that lead to spectacular views of the canyon and the road to Cedar Grove.

Hume Lake

After great views into the canyon, the road descended in elevation before arriving at Hume Lake. This lake was formed when a dam was built by logging interests in the area in the early 1900’s. Photos near the lake show what it looked like choked with logs. When logging ended and the surrounding area was reclaimed by nature, the lake became a destination for recreation. Today it is a fantastic place to enjoy kayaking, standup paddle boarding, or just some quiet reflection in nature.

Sequoia National Park-what to expect when visiting in April

Entrance sign at the southern entrance to Sequoia National Park

A typical spring break destination is not a trip into the mountains but then I have never been a typical traveler. I met up with my brother in California in April and we decided to check out Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. When planning for the trip, I discovered the need to be prepared for a large variation in weather conditions. I was also a bit unclear about what would be open. So after making the trip, I hope to pass on some information to make your travels to the Sierra Nevada range in April a bit smoother. Here is what we found to do!

California Poppy, the state flower, can be seen blooming throughout the state in early April.

The foothills-Three Rivers, CA

The foothills were awash in spring colors. Flowers were blooming everywhere and day time temps were in the mid 70’s or higher. We rented a cabin in Three Rivers through Airbnb. This was a nice gateway community with a few restaurants just a few miles south of the entrance to Sequoia National Park. The Kaweah river flowed past the back of the cabin and provided a very calming setting for our stay.

Kaweah river and cabin nestled in the trees.

What I needed, What I didn’t

I overpacked for this trip. Even after checking the weather for all locations I was visiting, I wasn’t sure exactly what I would encounter. Again, I was prepared for a wide range of weather and any trip in another year might see very different conditions. Here is what I found useful on this trip:

Comfortable hiking pants
T-shirt
Fleece jacket
Ball cap
Hiking Boots
Hiking Poles
Backpack
Water bottle
Sun glasses

What I did not use on this trip included:

Snow boots
Gloves
Winter hat
Snow pants
Winter coat
Crampons
Tire chains

I had all of these items on hand except the tire chains. If the weather turns snowy, which can happen in April or even May, tire chains may be required and are available to rent from local businesses outside park entrances. I was glad that this trip didn’t require them.

View of the Kaweah River and the Sierra Nevada mountains after entering the park.

What was open, What was not

The General’s highway starting from the Foothills Visitor Center and continuing through Kings Canyon National Park was open along its entire length. Many of the secondary roads were still closed for winter. The following areas of Sequoia National Park were not available in early April:

Crystal Cave
Moro Rock
Tunnel Log
Crescent Meadow

Best Stops in Sequoia National Park

Shortly after entering the park, is Tunnel Rock. Viewable from the road, there is also a pull off so you can grab a photo of this iconic spot.

We parked in the Giant Forest Museum area. Here we saw the Sentinel, walked under a giant sequoia lying across the bear hill trail, and strolled around Round Meadow on the interpretive Big Trees Trail.

The Sentinel, an averaged sized Sequoia!

Fallen sequoia across the Bear Hill Trail

My favorite hike of the day combined the half mile Big Trees trail with the .7 mile out and back Sunset Rock trail for a little over 2 miles of walking from the parking lot. I didn’t see this trail on the park map nor had I read about it in any of my pre-trip planning. It was just a trail we encountered and choose to follow before ending our first day in the park. Sometimes these unplanned moments are the best.

What not to miss-General Sherman

Our second day in the park required an early start. I wanted to see General Sherman, the world’s largest Sequoia tree, but not compete with crowds. We parked in the main lot here. The walk to the tree was just under 1-mile in length but I would recommend strolling along the Congress trail as well to take in different views of the General Sherman tree, walk through a fallen sequoia, and see other majestic sequoias along the way.

The General Sherman Tree is not the tallest and it is not the widest, but its total volume makes it the largest tree on earth. It is also not the oldest, at roughly 2200 years old, it is 1000 years younger than the oldest trees. Standing in front of it though, with all its burn scars on display, one feels its wisdom. This tree has persevered and that in itself has been enough. It serves as a powerful reminder to all who view it that you don’t need to be all the “est’s”, but in persevering, one can be enough.

Top 5 hiking day trips from Chautauqua County, NY

The weather is getting warmer in WNY, spring break is coming, and many people are not going to be traveling this year. Friends and family have been asking me, what are some fun day trips you would recommend and where should I take my kids hiking that isn’t too far from home? Here are my 5 favorite easy local hikes!

One of two interpretive viewing platforms at Erlandson Overview Park.

5-Erlandson Overview Park

This small park in Frewsburg, NY is a nice place to relax in southern Chautauqua County. There is a gazebo with picnic tables, a 1-mile hiking trail, and a large grassy expanse with great views. Directions can be found here.

We visit this park regularly whenever we want a quick walk in nature that is close to home or a park-like setting without the crowds of a city playground.

The trail winds through the woods and pops out once onto another grassy opening with a distant view of Chautauqua Lake. The signs and blue blazes are very easy to follow. We have visited in all seasons, even enjoying a warm Christmas Eve hike once before the rush of the Holiday.

4-Chautauqua Gorge

Close to my first home, this hidden gem isn’t often visited by non-locals. I have many fond memories of exploring the Chautauqua Gorge as a child and enjoy taking my own kids here. The Chautauqua Gorge State Forest is located at the end of Hannum Road in Mayville. It consists of a day-use area and some primitive campsites but the best part is hiking down in and exploring and splashing in Chautauqua Creek.

To get down to the water, drive to the very end of the Hannum Road, continuing even after it turns into dirt. At the very end is a small parking area, take the path to the left. The descent into the gorge is steep and the trail can be muddy or washed out in places. Keep an eye on young children as there are also occasional narrow sections with steep drop-offs.

Once at the bottom, there is a deeper section of creek at the end of the trail where people are often seen swimming. We prefer to walk upstream a bit. There are some really neat sections where the sheer shale walls tower above you.

Summer is the best time to visit because much of this hike takes place in the water but if visiting during other times of the year, a portion of the Westside Overland Trail can also be accessed from the State Forest.

Luensman Overview Park on a foggy morning

3-Luensman Overview Park

The northern most hike on the list is Luensman Overview Park in Portland, NY. Like it’s sister park, Erlandson above, there are a couple viewing platforms with fantastic views of Lake Erie, a gazebo, picnic tables, and a 1-mile hiking trail through the forested regions of the park.

The length of this hike is great for little legs. The trail is well marked and the rolling terrain is interesting without being too challenging.

Spring arrives at Erlandson Overview Park

Another bonus to this park is its proximity to Lake Erie. After hiking here, a great day trip might include a stop at Lake Erie State Park in Brocton NY where one can look for sea glass at its small beach, hit a playground, or just sit and watch the sunset.

The view that awaits at the end of the Rim Rock trail.

2-Rim Rock Trail from Kinzua Beach

This hike is not in Chautauqua County, it is not even in New York State, but the drive here is only 45 minutes from Jamestown making this beautiful area the perfect day trip.

There are two ways to get to the Rim Rock overlook. The first is to drive there. There is a large parking and picnic area located here. This post, however, is about hiking so I recommend starting at Kinzua Beach and walking the 1-mile trail to the overlook. If you are hiking with kids, they will have stretched their legs and will be tired enough that they won’t run dangerously around the big rock city at the top. Plus, the view is more rewarding when you work for it. Finally, the second half of the hike will be downhill with the promise of a splash in the Allegheny Reservoir on a warm day.

Starting up the trail to Rim Rock Overlook

The trail gradually climbs up in elevation and doesn’t feel steep until the very end. At this point though, there are a lot of interesting rocks to check out or sit upon if you need to rest. The last section of the trail winds through and includes a staircase among these big rocks.

Once at the top, there are nice views of the Allegheny Reservoir. There are picnic tables and vault toilets near the parking lot as well. After resting at the top, we usually spend some time exploring and climbing on rocks before heading back down.

Climbing rocks and heading back down the trail.

Back at the bottom, Kinzua Beach offers a place to dip your toes or even swim on a hot day. The beach surface is more of a pea gravel than sand and there are no lifeguards but the water is shallow and it is a quiet place to reflect on your efforts and the beauty of the area.

Early autumn view from the trail at the Jamestown Audubon Center

1-Jamestown Audubon Nature Center

This one has been my absolute favorite local hike for years and for so many different reasons! It is very close to my house, so I can go here after work on a sunny day and relieve some stress. I have taken my kids here to walk since they were very small. The big pond loop is 2 miles long and very flat, it is perfect for kids. Even when my kids were very little, the trails were easily navigated with a jogging stroller. An Audubon visit is great in any season. In the winter, it is a great place to cross-country ski or snowshoe. Not only do we use the trails, but there are also great events and nature programming throughout the year. I just can’t say enough about this one.

Spring brings new life to the woods. Besides hiking, one of our favorite activities is to attend a bird banding demonstration. You can check the website here for dates and times.

Hiking through blue bird meadow, some skunk cabbage, and pausing to look at big pond.

A Yellow Warbler is about to be released after being banded.

Another attraction to the Audubon for me is the diverse habitats that a loop around big pond traverses. From wet lands, to old plantation forests, through thick Hemlock canopies, and then open meadows this trail offers a lot to see.

In winter, it can be difficult to find ways to get out of the house and into nature. I think the Audubon is especially beautiful in snow. So even if we have a false spring and the snow returns, a quick trip to see the beauty in the snow is good for the spirit.

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Visiting Lincoln’s Home in Springfield Illinois

Front door with replica of original nameplate on the corner of Eighth and Jackson Streets.

Those who follow me know I love a road trip! Part of the fun and a way to break up a day of driving is to make interesting stops along the way. It is not the destination but the journey after all! After spending a night near Springfield Illinois, we were curious to see what the home of Abraham Lincoln looked like. Our curiosity took us to downtown Springfield. Here is what we found to do!

In 2020 and into 2021, the visitor center was closed. This means no indoor tours of the houses. However, we were pleasantly surprised to see that it was not just Lincoln’s home that was preserved, but a whole block. Not only could you see the homes as they were but there were boardwalk sidewalks and crushed stone streets. Along the way there were many interpretive signs with information about Lincoln’s time here. Hopefully, Covid-19 restrictions will lift soon but if you are driving through like we did, it is still worth a stop even with the visitor center closed. More information can be found at the NPS site.

Abraham and Mary Lincoln lived in this house for 17 years. They bought the home in 1844 from the reverend who performed their marriage ceremony two years earlier. It was a single story home at the time they purchased it and the Lincoln’s had just one child. They added the full second story seen today in 1856 to accommodate their growing family. We learned that the Lincoln’s had 4 sons here, but only one lived to adulthood. I reflected on the sadness the death of 3 children must have brought. I like to think that these early hardships helped to strengthen him for the difficult decisions he would make as president.

After an hour we were back on the road. We passed the Illinois State Capital building and continued on to St. Louis and the Gateway Arch. It was the perfect place to stretch our legs before the next leg of our journey.

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Five things to do in Grand Canyon National Park

No cross country adventure is complete without a stop at Grand Canyon National Park. Here is what we found to do!

5-Walk the Rim trail near Mather Point

As soon as you arrive in Grand Canyon National Park you will want to get to the rim! Easily accessible from the Grand Canyon Visitor Center parking lot or any of the in-park lodges is the Rim Trail. The vastness of this geologic wonder just can not be grasped until you view it for the first time in person.

4-Spend the night

There are a variety of lodging options to choose from inside Grand Canyon National Park. Since the drive from neighboring Flagstaff is an hour and a half, staying in the park is a great way to maximize your time here. There are two distinct sections at the south rim. The Visitor Center and Market Plaza area include Yavapai Lodge which is operated by Delaware North. Another concessionaire, Xanterra Parks and Resorts, operates Bright Angel Lodge, El Tovar Hotel, Kachina Lodge, Thunderbird Lodge, and Maswik Lodge in the Historic District. We chose to stay at Yavapai Lodge East for its family-friendly accommodations and economy.

3-Drive out to Desert View Watchtower

Located at the easternmost entrance to Grand Canyon National Park, the Desert View Watchtower is 25 miles from Canyon Village. After a day of hiking and biking, this drive is a relaxing finish.

The Watchtower was built in 1932 as a way to improve depression-stunted tourism in the area of the Grand Canyon. It was designed by architect Mary Colter whose Native American inspired structures are found throughout the Southwest.

The view across the canyon from the Desert View Watchtower showing the Colorado River and a storm over the north rim.

2-Sunset at Grandview Point

Watching the setting sun illuminate the rocky layers of the canyon is a sight not to be missed. We settled on Grandview Point for the place to watch the show. This area was less crowded than the bustling Mather Point. It also provided the opportunity to walk the Grandview Trail a bit to find further seclusion. After the sunset, it was only a 12-mile long drive back to Canyon Village on Desert View Drive.

Sunset from Grandview Point and a storm over the north rim.

1-Bright Angel Bicycles Hermit Road Tour

Our favorite family activity was the not-to-be-missed Bright Angel Bicycles Hermit Road Tour! Starting from the Bright Angel Bicycles cafe and shop right next to the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, this tour provided bicycles, helmets, shuttle service to and from starting and stopping points, and a very knowledgeable guide. If you are undecided about what tour to take while visiting the Grand Canyon and your family likes biking, this is definitely the tour to take.

Rental bikes lined up outside Bright Angel Bicycles

The Hermit Road Tour begins at Hopi Point and continues along 5.5 easy peddling miles to Hermit’s Rest. Along the way, stops are made at many of the view points and the interpretive guide is with you the whole time to share their extensive knowledge of the park’s history, geology, flora, and fauna.

It took about 3 hours from start to finish, but we felt we were able to see so much more on bikes than we could have by walking or even driving. Some of the roads were closed to private motor vehicles so other than the occasional park shuttle, we had the road to ourselves. This tour is great for all ages. Trailers or tagalong bikes are available for those who are too young to peddle on their own.

Hermit’s Rest, the last stop on the bike tour.

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Kinzua Bridge State Park and Sky Walk

Imagine a tornado so powerful that it picks up steel towers, with a combined weight of over 6 million pounds, right off of their concrete supports. This tornado then causes the supports to buckle under their own weight and crash into the ground. That is what happened to the Kinzua Viaduct in 2003. A century-old bridge was destroyed in 30 seconds.

View of the Sky Walk from the trail below.

The Kinzua bridge viaduct was completed in 1882 and at the time was the highest railroad viaduct in the world. As trains got heavier after 1900, it became necessary to rebuild the entire iron structure out of steel. As freight traffic declined, its use was discontinued. In 1963 it was repurposed as a state park. Through the the 1980’s and 1990’s it carried excursion trains through the Allegheny National Forest. In 2002, it was determined that the rusted steel was in dire need of repair, the bridge was closed to all traffic, and restoration began soon after. In July of 2003, a tornado with wind speeds reaching 112 mph, struck the side of the Kinzua Viaduct. Eleven towers were torn from their concrete bases and thrown to the valley floor. Throughout all this, the structure and the vision of its creators prevails. Today, park visitors can walk on the tracks, view the beauty of the valley below, and glimpse the power of both nature and the human spirit. Though changed in nature, the Kinzua Viaduct is reborn.

I have visited this park several times, the first of which was on a scenic train trip across the bridge when it was still intact. Today, this is a wonderfully scenic stop in Northwestern PA. Follow along to see what we found to do!

Viaduct in Early Fall

My first visit after the Sky Walk opened was with 4 small kids in September of 2015. We didn’t hike the trail all the way down to Kinzua Creek, but we did enjoy the Sky Walk with its glass floor observation deck!

The wooden Sky Walk, with the rails still intact, extends just over 600 feet over the Kinzua Valley.

Views from the Sky Walk showing both the beauty and power of nature.

Viaduct in Summer

When the kids were a little older, we returned as a family to check out the newly opened visitor’s center and hike the roughly 1-mile roundtrip trail into the gorge. The visitor’s center had fantastic exhibits on the history of the bridge, the tornado that tore it down, and all the engineering feats in between! It also had restrooms and a gift shop. Outside near the parking area, a food truck is often parked, and picnic tables are plentiful.

The kids a little bit bigger now, we retraced our steps from a few years earlier.

We enjoyed the view from the top then started the descent into the valley.

Views of the Sky Walk from the trail to the Kinzua valley.

Viaduct during peak Fall color

For my most recent visit, a friend and I tried to hit peak fall foliage. We visited the park on October 3rd. Considering my day job requires me to be an adventure travel weekend warrior, we may have missed peak by a couple of days. But is was still gorgeous!

We arrived before the crowds on a beautiful fall day and watched the fog lift over the valley.

The first weekend of October is probably the busiest of the year. Getting an early start helped with avoiding the crowds. It is also a pretty steep descent, so make sure that you are wearing appropriate shoes if you continue from the observation platform all the way to the creek.

Views from the bottom of the trail before heading back up.

Once back up at the top, the sun had come out in full force. We walked to the end of the Sky Walk one last time to see the foliage in full sun. Then headed out as the park began to fill up.

The view as we walked back up the trail.

Directions to the parking area and visitor center can be found here.

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Wandering and Wondering around Devil’s Tower National Monument

When taking a road trip across the United States, there are so many choices to make. I usually start by picking a few must-see places, then finding a driving route with the best balance between scenery and efficiency. Once that is done, I find reservations for lodging along the way. Then finally I fill the driving days with interesting stops along the way! Devil’s Tower National Monument did not make the cut on a 2015 adventure and I regretted it, so when I was planning another cross country trek last year, I was sure to include it. Here is what we found to do!

Lodging

We planned to stop at Devil’s Tower Monument on the return trip from Yellowstone National Park. I usually start my research of an area 6 months to a year in advance and I was thrilled to see that Devil’s Tower had one privately owned in-park lodge. I like booking in-park lodging whenever I can because I feel it maximizes our time in a place. This is a luxury that I am willing to pay for, it is sometimes difficult to get a family of 5 ready and out the door! Being in the park gets us that much closer to our starting point for the day.

Devil’s Tower at sunset from the road to Devil’s Tower Lodge.

Devil’s Tower Lodge could not have been a better choice! I can not say enough positive things about our stay. The lodge is located at the rear of the park, on adjacent, private land. You enter the park and follow the directions from the lodge to arrive. There are a few rooms to let in the main building but there is also a stand-alone cottage. We chose the cottage, named the Weissner Cottage, after that first person to climb the tower. It had two bedrooms, a bath, a large kitchen/dining/living area, and its own deck. There was plenty of room for a family of 5.

View from our private deck at Devil’s Tower Lodge

In addition to a room for the night, the Devil’s Tower Lodge offered a hot breakfast and an optional family style dinner. I would recommend that you make a reservation and get there in time for dinner. We had two wonderful home cooked meals, a refreshing change for a family whose cooler was getting down to peanut butter and jelly! The meals were served family style and the large dining table served all the lodge’s guests for the night. It was nice to chat with other travelers from all over the country. In addition to the common dining area in the main building, there was also a living room with books and games and two pianos. It was a nice place to sit and relax both before and after a meal.

View of the tower as we left the lodge and headed to the visitor center.

History

Devil’s Tower was the very first United States National Monument, established by Theodore Roosevelt in 1906, but this area was special to a lot of people long before then. In researching some of the oral histories of the monument, I was struck by the presence of a large bear in most of the Native American stories I read. In several of the stories, the Great Spirit played a role in raising the rocks to protect people from a great bear. I found 6 different tribes listed as having geographical, historical, or cultural ties to the tower. Today, the tower is still visited for sacred rituals, the most common of which are prayer offerings. Throughout the monument, there are colorful clothes scattered about. These religious artifacts are sacred and should not be touched.

But the tower’s history starts long before any people walked the earth. Along the trail, interpretive signs talk about the tower’s formation and though much is agreed upon, some aspects of its creation are still uncertain. It is known that it is made of a rare form of igneous rock and that it is the largest example of columnar jointing in the world. It is also agreed upon that the igneous rock occurred as a volcanic intrusion through layers of surrounding sedimentary rock, put just how that process took shape is uncertain.

It was fascinating to wander around such an unusual and important natural artifact.

Hiking

There are a handful of trails in the park which provide great views of the tower and even take you through a prairie dog town, but the most popular is the paved, 1.3 mile Tower Trail.

Prairie dogs call the Devil’s Tower area home.

We arrived at the visitor center early, before it opened, so we had the trail mostly to ourselves. Before heading around the monument though, the boys were drawn to the jumbled rocks at its base. I didn’t realize that you can scramble up these rocks, and it was a very nice surprise. I followed the boys as they climbed up all the way to the base where only permitted climbers can continue on.

Look carefully in the above photo for two boys scrambling up the rocks!

After ambling back down, we rejoined our teenage daughter who opted out of the scramble and started the loop around the monument’s base. Each side of the monument offered a different perspective of the giant monolith. We watched as the sun rose behind it and finished our walk before it reached its highest point in the sky, welcoming in the midday tourists.

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Westward Journey 1

A photographic journey of a family road trip to Glacier and Yellowstone National parks and back again.

Day 1

Day 2

Maggie Daley Park, Cloud Gate (The Bean) in Millennium Park

Day 3

Day 4

The Mississippi River at Great River Bluffs State Park, Minnesota

Sioux Falls Riverwalk, Sioux Falls South Dakota

Day 5

Walk of Presidents, Rapid City South Dakota

Day 6

Day 7

Checking out Rising Sun Motor Inn area, Glacier National Park

Day 8

Exploring the Many Glacier area of Glacier National Park

Day 9

Day 10

Gallatin, Jefferson, and Madison rivers becoming the Missouri River

Terrace Spring, our first thermal feature

Quick hike to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, right behind our cabin.

Day 11

Day 12

Day 13

Chartered fishing trip on Yellowstone Lake

Watching Old Faithful erupt for a second time.

Day 14

Leaving Yellowstone and passing over the Bighorn Mountains.

Day 15

Day 16

Day 17

Back in Wisconsin Dells for another Theme Park

Last night…..and some of the characters we picked up along the way.

Indiana Dunes National Park

The view from the top of Mount Baldy in 2011.

One of American’s newest National Parks, Indiana Dunes National Park was established by an act of congress in 2019. This made it the 61st national park in the country, but Indiana Dunes had been managed by the park service since 1966 when it was dedicated as a National Lakeshore.

We have visited this park twice, once in 2011 and again in 2020 after it had gained National Park status. Here is what we found to do!

Hiking to the top of Mount Baldy and getting ready to hit West Beach on a family trip in 2011.

Both trips were just an afternoon spent at the beach as a stop on the way to traveling somewhere else. I really try to make the most of a road trip by taking advantage of the journey en route to the final destination. In 2011, the trail to the top of Mount Baldy, the park’s largest dune was still open to the public, so of course, we had to climb it! Today, the summit can only be reached on a ranger-led tour, stop at a visitor center in the park for more information.

Though less than a mile in length, a sandy trail can be difficult to walk in. The children collapsed at the top of Mount Baldy.

On our more recent visit in the summer of 2020, we headed straight for West Beach. We had stopped here on our previous visit and thought it would make a great place for a picnic supper and walk to stretch our legs.

After dinner in the picnic area near the parking lot, we headed to the beach via the Dune Succession Trail. Information about the trail, as well as a map, can be found on the National Park Service website here.

Stairs at the start of the Dune Succession trail.

Some of the difficulty in climbing over a sand dune is mitigated by wooden boardwalks and stairs. The entire loop was just about a mile in length with the most difficult climb being right at the start.

Looking back at the trail we just climbed.

At the crest of the dune, the stairs give way to sand and views of lake Michigan appear.

The boardwalk then returns to ferry you to the shore of Lake Michigan. Along the trail there is evidence of all stages of dune development in reverse. Part of the trail walks through a forest of Jack Pine. Closer to the water, there are Oak and Cottonwood trees becoming mixed with grasses and then finally the sandy shores.

After admiring Lake Michigan for a bit, we walked back through the park beach house to a paved path back to the parking lot, enjoying more great views along the way.

With beaches, biking trails, miles of hiking, and so much more, Indiana Dunes could be a whole vacation destination. Just as great though, is seeing this spot as a stop for a few hours of playtime when passing through northern Indiana. I encourage you not to overlook it. It is a great stop to have a picnic meal, take a quick dip in the lake to cool off, or watch the sunset before getting a hotel for the night.

Life is a journey, after all, not just a destination. Find joy whenever you can.