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3 days to see Poughkeepsie and the Catskills

It was November 2020. We wanted a change of scenery for our Thanksgiving Holiday. We wanted to stay in-state, but see something new. All activities needed to be socially distant and close to the house we rented. Life was a bit……stressful! I wanted a break. Here is what we found to do.

Day 1: 1st stop-Russell Brook Falls

To break up the drive and make the most of the daylight, we stopped in Roscoe NY and took a quick detour to Russell Brook Falls. After a short drive down Russell Brook Road, there was a small parking area on the right.

From the parking area, it was a short walk to the falls. First, cross a bridge and then take the right at the fork to go directly to the falls. A map at the trailhead gave suggestions for longer hikes around Trout or Mud ponds if one had more time and wished for a longer hike.

Take the less traveled path to the right to access Russell Brook Falls.

We spent 20 minutes or so admiring the falls before getting back on the road. It was a blissful moment of calm.

Day 2: 1st stop-Mohonk Preserve

I wanted to do some hiking. I always want to do some hiking. The kids wanted to sleep in. So my husband accompanied me to the Mohonk Preserve just after dawn, on a rainy morning, so I could get in a hike I have been wanting to do. I recently picked up the book America’s Best Day Hikes by Derek Dellinger. I agreed with a lot of his choices so I thought I would follow his recommendation and check out the Bonticou Crag and Table Rocks trails in the Mohonk Preserve.

We parked at the Spring Farm Trailhead. It was still pretty foggy, but the trails were peaceful this early in the morning.

We crisscrossed several old carriage trails before arriving at the Bonticou Crag spur trail. As it was still pretty damp, we decided that conditions weren’t appropriate for the rock scramble required and took the less rocky Northeast trail followed by the Cedar trail to loop to the Table Rocks trail.

Lot’s of rocks and roots along the Northeast trail.

Sights along the Cedar and Table Rocks trails.

We were the only hikers on table rock. The solitude and quiet were calming. I sat for a long time and watched the fog lift and the water drip from the tree branches.

The Mohonk Preserve manages an 8000 acre portion of the Shawangunk Ridge, a northern end of the Appalachian Mountains. The ridge at this northern end is wide and flat with views on clear days of the valley below and the Hudson River. Table Rocks and Bonticou Crag, like other areas of the ridge consist of sandstone and conglomerate with a high concentration of quartz which gives these rocky outcroppings a very light grey color. The flat surfaces of Table rocks were also covered with a variety of different hued lichens. Table rocks had a lot of interesting, but potentially dangerous, deep fissures. I would not suggest this hike for families with young children.

Straddling a deep fissure in the sandstone conglomerate of Table Rock.

After leaving Table Rock, we retraced our steps as the sun came out and the sky turned blue. I hope to visit this area again someday in another season.

One last look at Mohonk Preserve as the morning sky turns to blue.

Day 2: 2nd stop-Walkway over the Hudson

After an early dinner, 3 of us headed out to check out some sights around Poughkeepsie. The Walkway Over the Hudson sounded like a great place to stretch our legs and take in a view. There was ample parking nearby.

The walk from the parking lot to the opposite side of the river was about 1.5 miles with nice views along the way.

Day 2: 3rd stop-Home of FDR

This was a very quick stop to drive around the former president’s residence. If I were in the area again, I would love to tour the home, but this time we just snapped some photos of the exterior.

Day 2: 4th stop-Vanderbilt Mansion

As with the home of FDR, we knew that the Vanderbilt Mansion was closed but the park-like grounds were open and VERY inviting. Instead of just snapping a photo and driving away, we walked the grounds as the sun set. It was really a very interesting home and a lovely end to the day.

Walkway leading toward the Vanderbilt Mansion

This Vanderbilt mansion was built in 1898 by the grandson of The American railroad magnate, Frederick Vanderbilt. Having no children, upon his death it went to a niece, who then passed it on to the National Park Service in 1940.

Day 3: Minnewaska State Park-Awosting Falls

Heading back home, there was one more stop I wanted to make, Minnewaska State Park. This is definitely not a park to see all in one day. We decided to start with the Lake Minnewaska area, one of the park’s three sky lakes. Right after the entrance, was the parking area for Awosting Falls, so we stopped there first. The walk to the falls was half a mile on a paved trail.

The walk to the falls follows Peter’s Kill.

Green along the trail, even in November!

After the walk to the falls, we drove into the park a bit and parked at the Lake Minnewaska Visitor Center for one final stop on this trip.

Day 3: Minneswaska State Park-Hike around Lake Minnewaska

Our first look at Lake Minnewaska from the visitor center.

My youngest and I set off to hike the roughly 2-mile loop around the lake. We traveled counterclockwise from the visitor center and our first stop took us down to lake level to a little beach area.

The half way point of the loop afforded beautiful views looking up the lake.

We climbed back up in elevation as we embarked on the second half of the loop. Once we were overlooking the lake again on its eastern side, the landscape flattened out and there was a picnic area with lot’s of great views.

I took in the views, appreciative for this opportunity in a time of great uncertainty. It was time to head back home.

Letchworth State Park

Best State Park 2015 in the USA Today 10Best State Park Readers’ Choice Awards! That is pretty high praise. I am fortunate that this park in Castile, New York is less than a two hour drive from my home, so I have visited it more times than I can remember. It is gorgeous in any season, but a recent winter trip was absolutely magical.

The southernmost entrance was closed, so we entered the park on the western side at the Castile entrance. Once in we took the park road heading south and made our first stop at Archery Field Overlook. This overlook had nice views of the gorge and the Genesee River.

The next stop along the Park Road was Inspiration Point. Here you can see both the middle and upper falls in the distance. The snow-covered trees made me think we were in Narnia and the kids broke into a spontaneous snowball fight while I took photos of the gorge.

I have been reflecting a lot on perseverance lately. There is no doubt that the water flowing over the falls is powerful, but from this vantage point, it is clear that it is not just the power of the water but the perseverance that has carved through this gorge over the years. It was a beautiful sight and a beautiful reminder of what continually moving forward does for us over time.

Once home again, I was eager to compare my photos of this trip with photos of the falls at other times of the year. It is no wonder that this is an award winning park, the scenery is delightful any time of year.

After Inspiration Point, the next stop was the main parking area of Middle Falls. In the summer, there are lot’s of people here, but on this winter’s day, we were almost all alone.

The upper falls view point is just a short walk along the Genesee River from middle falls.

What a study in contrasts! There is a third waterfall, lower falls. It was not accessible on our last two trips, but hopefully the trail will be open again soon. More information can be found on the NYS parks website.

If you are traveling across Western New York, I hope you get the chance to stop at Letchworth State Park. It is picnic perfect in any season.

Emilie Jonas Waterfall

I just received my signed copy of the book Waterfalls of Pennsylvania by Jim Cheney. It is a beautiful compilation of his travels to more than 180 waterfalls in his home state. If you love chasing waterfalls and are traveling through Pennsylvania, I highly recommend you pick up this book. Not only does it have beautiful pictures, but it also contains GPS coordinates, relative websites, waterfall stats, trail distances, and other relavent tips in a consistent and concise manner. You can find a link to purchase this book and follow Jim on his adventures through his popular travel blog and website Uncovering PA.

So after looking over his book and reflecting on my own experiences chasing waterfalls, I decided to write about a beautiful fall I visited this past summer in Lansing, New York. Lansing is located on the southeastern side of Cayuga Lake in the Finger Lakes region of New York State, not far from Ithaca. There is a very small parking area found off of Route 34, here. Though the trail and base of the waterfall are open to the public, it does pass through private land so be respectful of the landowners and their neighbors.

After a very short distance, a welcome kiosk highlights the trail ahead and gives some history surrounding the waterfall’s namesake. If you turn right from the welcome post you can view the waterfall from above and not have to attempt the steep descent to creek level.

View of Emilie Jonas waterfall from above.

Turning left from the welcome kiosk takes you down a steep and very narrow footpath, first turning away from the falls and then reaching Gulf Creek before winding back up toward the falls. After a very short walk, the waterfall appears in front of you and it is spectacular!

We enjoyed relaxing briefly at the base of the falls before heading back up. I have always enjoyed the feeling of being near moving water whether it be the ocean, a great lake, or a moving stream. There is research that the negative ions given off at sources of colliding water can reduce the symptoms of depression in some people. Perhaps that is true, so I will continue to chase waterfalls, not for risk, but for the calming presence that they bring.

Top 5 favorite hikes

Coming up with a list of my top 5 favorite hikes of all time was no easy task. I chose hikes not just for the trail or scenery, but for the particular emotional feel of that day. I encourage you to hike the trails on this list, but also to pick 5 hikes of your own that gave you a memorable experience of heightened emotion.

Number 5-Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook/Fairy Falls Trail, Yellowstone National Park

This was a great hike (meaning nobody complained) that I was able to take with my whole family while traveling through Wyoming in August 2020. This was just one experience we had together during a 2-week tour of Wyoming but it was a very memorable one. I think the combined victory of perfect weather and harmonious children was intensified on this trip by the realization that we were here, on vacation, after months of uncertainty due to the pandemic.

Looking at thermal features along the Firehole River, shortly after leaving the parking area.

Grand Prismatic Spring as seen from above.

As the trail moves away from the thermal area, the number of Lodgepole Pine trees increased dramatically.

The spray was refreshing on a hot August day.

After returning from the falls, the parking lot for the boardwalk around Grand Prismatic Spring is a very short drive north. I highly recommend combining the hike up to the overlook with this short walk around the spring. The feeling you get as you the heat coming from the earth hits you is surreal.

Posted by Jennifer McMaster Lumia on Saturday, August 22, 2020

Number 4-Mt Marcy Summit from Johns Brook Lodge-ADK High Peaks Wilderness, New York

June of 2018-I had just closed out another school year and was excited about the great plans I had for summer. My first adventure was a hiking trip in the Adirondack High Peak Wilderness with a group of fellow teachers from all around WNY. We hiked in and stayed at Johns Brook Lodge for two nights. This lodge was a great starting point for the roughly 11-mile roundtrip hike to the summit of Mt Marcy. Mount Marcy, at 5344 feet, is the highest point in New York State.

After a great breakfast at the lodge, my friend Mary and I broke off from the group to start out on our hike. After about a mile and a half, there is a short but steep spur trail to take you to the beautiful Bushnell falls. Take the trail! It is well worth it.

For several miles, we trudged through what appeared to be more of a seasonal stream bed than a trail but our lively conversation kept us going. Before long, we reached a break in the trees where we could assess how far we had ascended by taking in the view.

Our first look at the ADK wilderness from above.

For the last half mile or so, the trail opened up to bare rock. At this elevation, one enters an arctic-alpine zone. This ecosystem contains beautiful and fragile plants. If you hike this trail, please walk only on solid rock to protect these plants.

My friend Mary enjoys the view from the summit after our picnic lunch from the lodge.

We retraced our steps to return to the lodge with plenty of time to relax on the deck before rejoining our group for a hot meal. We were tired and sore but felt immensely accomplished after the completion of this bucket list hike.

Number 3-Cascade Falls Trail, Pembroke Virginia

February 2020, I embarked on a whirlwind trip with a good friend. Unlike most of my adventures where the planning is done by me, this trip was entirely planed by my friend Shane and I had the pleasure of enjoying 22 waterfalls and 40 miles of hiking over 5 days! Cascades Falls was the very last hike of a perfect trip which is probably why it was so memorable. The other reason I loved it was because of the suspense that built up as the trail snaked back and both along Little Stony Creek. At every turn you thought maybe the waterfall was just around the bend!

The trailhead for Cascade Falls is just north of Pembroke Virginia in the Jefferson National Forest. You can find the parking lot here. The hike to the falls, on this out and back trail, was just about two miles for a total of 4 miles round trip.

A look at the beautiful Little Stony Creek, not far from the trailhead.

Though it was February, there was still a lot of green on the trail. Mountain Laurel, mosses, and ferns were found throughout the area.

Not having planned this trip, I was not sure what the waterfall would look like. I was walking a little in front of my friend and thought maybe we had arrived when I saw the falls below, but it was just a pretty little seasonal fall along the trail, not on the main creek.

We continued around interesting bends in the creek, often along stone paths like this one below. I tried to discover the origin of this stonework online but only found that the trail was built in the 1960’s. If you know more about who built it, I would love to know!

And then finally, around the corner, the waterfall appears!

I was fortunate to have the gift of time to sit and watch the cascading water for awhile. This hike, this trip, this moment were all truly worth waiting for. I was happy to relax and enjoy it.

Number 2-Four Mile Trail, one-way from Glacier Point to Swinging bridge, Yosemite National Park

Tunnel View. Our first stop on the drive up to Glacier Point.

In July of 2019, we took a family trip through northern California that ended in Yosemite National Park. I really wanted to hike this trail, but with kids in tow, knew that going down would be the only way to convince them it was worth it. You can book a shuttle for a one-way drive up to Glacier Point from the valley, but they were all sold out. My husband wanted me to have this experience so he drove us up to the top and my youngest child volunteered to be my hiking partner. The two older kids were happy to get a ride back down. This trip made the list not just for it’s sweeping views of an incredible landscape but also for the memory of the time spent with my son and the tradition this hiked started for us. Every trip we have taken since, he asks if we can do a hike, just the two of us.

The spectacular view from Glacier Point. Half dome is on the left. Vernal falls and Nevada Fall are on the right.

Close up of Half Dome, hovering over the valley.

Close up of Vernal falls and Nevada Fall

After taking in the view from Glacier point and stopping in the gift shop to buy popsicles, we were ready to head down the trail. The trail started out wooded but soon opened up to sweeping views of the valley below.

As we made our way down the switchbacks in the trail the view continued, Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, repeat.

Closeup of Upper and Lower Yosemite falls

It was a great hike. We took advantage of magic hour on the mountain and still made it down with plenty of daylight left. Once back in the valley, my mileage tracker told us we had hiked just over 6 miles. So much for the 4-mile trail!

We crossed over the Merced River at Swinging Bridge and headed back to the lodge for a big dinner with the rest of our family.

Number 1-Angel’s Landing, Zion National Park, Utah

My husband and I have always climbed things. On our very first trip together, we stopped at a roadside attraction because the sign said: “Climb our tower!” In Astoria Oregon, we climbed their column. On our honeymoon, we climbed the Arc D’ Triumph. Our daughter climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower as a fetus. Space Needle, Sears Tower, World Trade Center, CN Tower, Empire State Building…..we have climbed them all. So it’s fitting that we started climbing mountains. If there is a hill in life to get over, we will do it together. So my favorite hike of all time was climbing Angel’s Landing for our 15th wedding anniversary.

This trail, located in Zion National Park, is no easy feat. Though only about 5 miles round trip, what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in elevation gain! I first heard of this trail on our family trip to Zion in 2017. I really wanted to climb it, but not with the kids. I decided then that I would just have to return to Utah in the next few years!

In October, there was still plenty of green foliage, but signs of fall were spreading.

I look forward as we approach the first set of switchbacks.

A look at the red rocks of Zion on a stretch of the trail known as refrigerator canyon.

As we continue to climb, the trail snakes back through the canyon behind us.

This first leg of the trail continues to gain steadily in elevation ending with the super steep switchbacks know as Walter’s Wiggles. This part of the trail is pretty wide and affords hikers nice views. It terminates at Scout Lookout and some people choose to pause here and then head back down.

A look at other hikers ascending the wiggles.

The sandy “boot road” at Scout Lookout. This a good place to rest before heading out to the Landing.

Chains along the final leg of the trail were put in by the National Park Service to improve the safety of this hike.

The rocks were beautiful and popular with climbers. Look closely at the photo on the right!

The canyon comes into view again in front of us.

Before heading back down, we paused on this stretch of rock. There was no one else on this lesser-traveled stretch of trail heading away from Angel’s Landing. We watched as the mid-day crowds arrived at Scout Lookout and scurried up Angel’s Landing in front of us and we marveled at this little evergreen, growing out of such adversity. It was a perfect moment to appreciate how far we had come and a reminder of our own triumphs over adversity.