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3 days to see Poughkeepsie and the Catskills

It was November 2020. We wanted a change of scenery for our Thanksgiving Holiday. We wanted to stay in-state, but see something new. All activities needed to be socially distant and close to the house we rented. Life was a bit……stressful! I wanted a break. Here is what we found to do.

Day 1: 1st stop-Russell Brook Falls

To break up the drive and make the most of the daylight, we stopped in Roscoe NY and took a quick detour to Russell Brook Falls. After a short drive down Russell Brook Road, there was a small parking area on the right.

From the parking area, it was a short walk to the falls. First, cross a bridge and then take the right at the fork to go directly to the falls. A map at the trailhead gave suggestions for longer hikes around Trout or Mud ponds if one had more time and wished for a longer hike.

Take the less traveled path to the right to access Russell Brook Falls.

We spent 20 minutes or so admiring the falls before getting back on the road. It was a blissful moment of calm.

Day 2: 1st stop-Mohonk Preserve

I wanted to do some hiking. I always want to do some hiking. The kids wanted to sleep in. So my husband accompanied me to the Mohonk Preserve just after dawn, on a rainy morning, so I could get in a hike I have been wanting to do. I recently picked up the book America’s Best Day Hikes by Derek Dellinger. I agreed with a lot of his choices so I thought I would follow his recommendation and check out the Bonticou Crag and Table Rocks trails in the Mohonk Preserve.

We parked at the Spring Farm Trailhead. It was still pretty foggy, but the trails were peaceful this early in the morning.

We crisscrossed several old carriage trails before arriving at the Bonticou Crag spur trail. As it was still pretty damp, we decided that conditions weren’t appropriate for the rock scramble required and took the less rocky Northeast trail followed by the Cedar trail to loop to the Table Rocks trail.

Lot’s of rocks and roots along the Northeast trail.

Sights along the Cedar and Table Rocks trails.

We were the only hikers on table rock. The solitude and quiet were calming. I sat for a long time and watched the fog lift and the water drip from the tree branches.

The Mohonk Preserve manages an 8000 acre portion of the Shawangunk Ridge, a northern end of the Appalachian Mountains. The ridge at this northern end is wide and flat with views on clear days of the valley below and the Hudson River. Table Rocks and Bonticou Crag, like other areas of the ridge consist of sandstone and conglomerate with a high concentration of quartz which gives these rocky outcroppings a very light grey color. The flat surfaces of Table rocks were also covered with a variety of different hued lichens. Table rocks had a lot of interesting, but potentially dangerous, deep fissures. I would not suggest this hike for families with young children.

Straddling a deep fissure in the sandstone conglomerate of Table Rock.

After leaving Table Rock, we retraced our steps as the sun came out and the sky turned blue. I hope to visit this area again someday in another season.

One last look at Mohonk Preserve as the morning sky turns to blue.

Day 2: 2nd stop-Walkway over the Hudson

After an early dinner, 3 of us headed out to check out some sights around Poughkeepsie. The Walkway Over the Hudson sounded like a great place to stretch our legs and take in a view. There was ample parking nearby.

The walk from the parking lot to the opposite side of the river was about 1.5 miles with nice views along the way.

Day 2: 3rd stop-Home of FDR

This was a very quick stop to drive around the former president’s residence. If I were in the area again, I would love to tour the home, but this time we just snapped some photos of the exterior.

Day 2: 4th stop-Vanderbilt Mansion

As with the home of FDR, we knew that the Vanderbilt Mansion was closed but the park-like grounds were open and VERY inviting. Instead of just snapping a photo and driving away, we walked the grounds as the sun set. It was really a very interesting home and a lovely end to the day.

Walkway leading toward the Vanderbilt Mansion

This Vanderbilt mansion was built in 1898 by the grandson of The American railroad magnate, Frederick Vanderbilt. Having no children, upon his death it went to a niece, who then passed it on to the National Park Service in 1940.

Day 3: Minnewaska State Park-Awosting Falls

Heading back home, there was one more stop I wanted to make, Minnewaska State Park. This is definitely not a park to see all in one day. We decided to start with the Lake Minnewaska area, one of the park’s three sky lakes. Right after the entrance, was the parking area for Awosting Falls, so we stopped there first. The walk to the falls was half a mile on a paved trail.

The walk to the falls follows Peter’s Kill.

Green along the trail, even in November!

After the walk to the falls, we drove into the park a bit and parked at the Lake Minnewaska Visitor Center for one final stop on this trip.

Day 3: Minneswaska State Park-Hike around Lake Minnewaska

Our first look at Lake Minnewaska from the visitor center.

My youngest and I set off to hike the roughly 2-mile loop around the lake. We traveled counterclockwise from the visitor center and our first stop took us down to lake level to a little beach area.

The half way point of the loop afforded beautiful views looking up the lake.

We climbed back up in elevation as we embarked on the second half of the loop. Once we were overlooking the lake again on its eastern side, the landscape flattened out and there was a picnic area with lot’s of great views.

I took in the views, appreciative for this opportunity in a time of great uncertainty. It was time to head back home.

Letchworth State Park

Best State Park 2015 in the USA Today 10Best State Park Readers’ Choice Awards! That is pretty high praise. I am fortunate that this park in Castile, New York is less than a two hour drive from my home, so I have visited it more times than I can remember. It is gorgeous in any season, but a recent winter trip was absolutely magical.

The southernmost entrance was closed, so we entered the park on the western side at the Castile entrance. Once in we took the park road heading south and made our first stop at Archery Field Overlook. This overlook had nice views of the gorge and the Genesee River.

The next stop along the Park Road was Inspiration Point. Here you can see both the middle and upper falls in the distance. The snow-covered trees made me think we were in Narnia and the kids broke into a spontaneous snowball fight while I took photos of the gorge.

I have been reflecting a lot on perseverance lately. There is no doubt that the water flowing over the falls is powerful, but from this vantage point, it is clear that it is not just the power of the water but the perseverance that has carved through this gorge over the years. It was a beautiful sight and a beautiful reminder of what continually moving forward does for us over time.

Once home again, I was eager to compare my photos of this trip with photos of the falls at other times of the year. It is no wonder that this is an award winning park, the scenery is delightful any time of year.

After Inspiration Point, the next stop was the main parking area of Middle Falls. In the summer, there are lot’s of people here, but on this winter’s day, we were almost all alone.

The upper falls view point is just a short walk along the Genesee River from middle falls.

What a study in contrasts! There is a third waterfall, lower falls. It was not accessible on our last two trips, but hopefully the trail will be open again soon. More information can be found on the NYS parks website.

If you are traveling across Western New York, I hope you get the chance to stop at Letchworth State Park. It is picnic perfect in any season.

Yosemite National Park

I have been to half of the national parks in the United States. From that list, I think Yosemite is my favorite, though that changes depending on what I am currently reflecting on! For 6 days and 5 nights in July of 2019, my family and I explored as much of this park as we could. Today I will share my favorite experiences from that trip with you, I hope that you have the chance to see it yourself someday and form your own impressions and memories.

Tioga Pass-Day 1

Yosemite National Park was the final destination on a longer trip through Northern California. We drove through the Sierra Nevadas once in order to make a stop at Lake Tahoe so to cross back over the mountains and arrive in Yosemite Valley, we entered the park for the first time at its eastern most entrance.

Our first introduction to Yosemite was the Tioga Pass and Tuolumne Meadows. One of my favorite memories is our first stop at Lembert dome. The area was nearly deserted, this was a pleasant surprise. I knew there would be crowds in the valley, I wasn’t sure what to expect in other areas of the park. On every national park trip I have taken, I have found a place all to myself to quietly enjoy. Lembert Dome did not disappoint. The kids stretched their legs, after being cooped up during the drive, by running up and down the dome. I sat and enjoyed the view.

View of Lembert Dome from the trail through Tuolumne Meadows.

The next stop along Tioga Road was Tenaya Lake. I would have loved to hike the 2.5 mile trail around the lake but we were racing the sun and wanted to save some daylight for our arrival in the valley.

We stopped one final time at Olmsted Point, named after the famous landscape architect. This was a low effort vista with incredible views of Half Dome’s northern side in front of us and Tenaya Lake behind us.

Our first glimpse of Half Dome from Olmsted Point.

As we turned from Tioga Road to Big Oak Flat and descended into the valley, we got our first view of the Merced River and Yosemite Valley. We checked off first sightings of Bridalveil Falls and El Capitan too before checking into our room at the Yosemite Valley Lodge as the sun set.

The Merced River with Bridalveil Falls in the background.

Yosemite Falls and drive to Glacier Point-Day 2

On our first full day, I was up early to walk to Yosemite Falls. At less than half a mile from the room where we stayed, I made this my daily routine. I loved getting there first thing in the morning when I had the falls all to myself!

The approach to Yosemite Falls, first thing in the morning.

After a day in the valley, we drove up to Glacier Point. A must see stop on the way is Tunnel View. The view of Bridalveil falls, Half Dome, and El Capitan forms the iconic image of Yosemite. Once above the valley at Glacier Point, the views of the valley below were amazing! The hike back down along the 4-mile trail is one of my favorite hikes of all time. You can read about that hike in another blog post here.

Close up of Vernal and Nevada Falls from Glacier Point

Biking in the Valley-Day 3

Traffic in the valley can become uncomfortably crowded in the summer. It is no fun to waste beautiful summer days in a car or bus. The valley is huge and even though we did walk from the lodge to Curry Village once, we found that the best way to explore the valley was by bicycle! Daily rentals are available at Yosemite Valley Bike Rental.

We get ready to head out on the bike trail right behind our building at Yosemite Valley Lodge.

After exploring the area around the lodge by bike, we picked up picnic supplies for a ride up to Mirror Lake. Our route was just under 4 miles to the lake. There is a point where bikes can be parked and the last leg uphill to Mirror Lake is walked. We ate our lunch, enjoyed the beautiful scenery, and then explored the lake.

Splashing in the glittery golden Mirror Lake.

The bike rental was for the whole day. It was a great way to maximize our time in the valley and avoid the crowds.

Floating down the Merced River-Day 4

This was the kids’ favorite activity from the trip! We met for a safety talk at Curry Village Raft Rentals, grabbed our rafts, and off we went! This is not a guided tour. You put in your raft of 2 or 3 people and float at your own pace, as fast or as slow as you like. You can stop at a sand bar along the Merced River and swim or relax in your raft and watch the scenery.

At the end of the trip, the raft company is there to help haul your raft out of the water and offer you a ride back to the starting point if you need it. This was a very relaxing adventure.

Exploring Wawona-Day 5

Wawona is the gateway to some of the biggest trees in Yosemite! Driving to this end of the park brings you to the Mariposa Grove Depot where a short bus ride takes you to well-maintained trails through one of Yosemite’s groves of Giant Sequoias.

Some of these trees, like the Grizzly Giant above right, are estimated to be over 3000 years old. They bear the scars of this age well. Fire is necessary for these trees to reproduce. The heat opens their seed cones and releases the seeds. While the flames clear the earth for the seeds to germinate, the Giant Sequoias themselves withstand the flames. Signs of past fires are on most of the trees. I like the metaphor. I try to think of these trees when facing my own trials, that it is difficult but necessary to grow.

The trees weren’t the only things of beauty in Mariposa Grove, the Lupine were in bloom.

After our hike we stopped at The Big Trees Lodge, formerly the Wawona Hotel, and now once again the Wawona Hotel, for a wonderful dinner before driving back down into the valley as the sun set on another perfect day.

Hiking the Mist trail to Vernal Falls-Day 6

Our final activity of the trip involved a hike to see a couple of the parks famous waterfalls. We took the valley shuttle bus to the Happy Isles Bridge stop. From there, you can hike the John Muir trail to the Mist trail up to the top of Vernal Falls. Even pretty early in the morning, this trail was crowded, but it was worth it. The wildlife didn’t seem to mind all the people.

A bear crosses in front of us on the trail.

Some sections of trail were pretty steep.

We hiked to the top of Vernal Falls and found a quiet spot to eat our packed lunch. After, we wandered up the trail a bit farther, until we could spot Nevada Falls as well. Then we retraced our steps back down. An alternative route that combines the Mist Trail with another leg of the John Muir trail would make a nice loop, but some family members were tired and ready to head back to the lodge and its swimming pool.

Waterfalls of Watkins Glen and Montour Falls

You have probably heard of or even been to Watkins Glen State Park. It was listed as the 3rd best state park in the United States in a 2015 USA Today poll. It IS a beautiful place to visit, but give yourself a couple of extra hours when in the area to check out some of these lesser-known waterfalls.

Hector Falls

This waterfall, just north of Watkin’s Glen, can be seen from your car as you drive along Rte 414. There are a few parking spots as well for you to get out of the car and admire the falls here.

Hector falls on the east side of Route 414 and where the creek meets Seneca Lake on the west side of 414.

The Falls of Excelsior Glen

This gorge, also just north of Watkin’s Glen, is easy to miss. There is room for one car to park on the grassy shoulder of the northbound side of Route 414 where it crosses the creek, but it is also just a short walk from the parking area at Clute Park. From this parking area, walk north until you get to the creek at the coordinates here.

Excelsior Glen is located along a stretch of the Finger Lakes trail/North Country Trail system. One could combine these waterfalls as part of a longer day hike. There are 5 cascades in the glen, but we only visited the first two. It was a cool November day, not ideal for creek walking. The first two waterfalls however, can be seen with only a short walk that didn’t require getting wet.

The second fall we encountered was so smooth! It was very relaxing just to sit near it for a bit before heading back to the car.

Aunt Sarah’s Falls

Just south of Watkins Glen is the village of Montour Falls. The next fall was another roadside stop along Route 14. Parking is on the left if you are heading south from Watkins Glen and the waterfall is on the right.

Shequaga Falls

Continuing south and veering to the right onto N. Genesee Street, is the village’s namesake falls, also called Chequaga or Shequaga Falls. There is plenty of on-street parking nearby the little Shequaga Falls Park. The park was decorated for Christmas with the waterfall as the centerpiece at the back.

The holiday decorations and the pretty waterfall made this my second favorite stop of the day. The best was still yet to come!

Deckertown Falls

Moving east, the next waterfall was found at the end of a residential street. There was parking and public access but it skirted private land, so if visiting, please be respectful of the neighbors. After a short walk along Catlin Mill Creek, the waterfall comes into view.

Havana Glen Park and Eagle’s Cliff Falls

The last waterfall we stopped at was my favorite. It was not as tall as Shequaga nor did it have as much water flowing over it as Hector, but it did have a serene setting and a nice walk to get to it. The park itself was closed for the season, but there was a playground and picnic areas and a restroom to make this a great summer destination for a nominal fee. It was just a short drive south from Deckertown Falls and not far from Route 14 if you were making this your first stop and viewing the waterfalls in reverse. There was lot’s of parking here.

The short walk to the falls first took you across the lawn of the picnic area, then it began to follow the creek, complete with the riffles seen in the photo above.

The path was a sturdy mix of wooden boardwalks, metal stairs, and stone steps.

I think this was my favorite fall of the day because of how lovely and secluded the short walk to it was. It was such a peaceful setting and we enjoyed it all to ourselves for awhile.

A little calm at the end of another adventure but before the rush of the Holiday season.

Rickett’s Glen State Park

On October 12th, 2020 we took advantage of a drive across Pennsylvania to stop at Rickett’s Glen State Park to hike one of my bucket list trails. The trailhead is off of PA 118 about 24 miles west of Wilkes-Barre, PA. From the sign at the entrance to the park and combining the Falls trail, Ganoga Glen trail, Highland trail, and Glen Leigh trail, we hiked 8.1 miles in a lollipop formation to see all 21 of the park’s named waterfalls!

Above are two of the first falls we encountered. Murray Reynolds at the top at 16′ high and Harrison Wright at 27′ tall.

Tuscarora at 47′ tall, was one of my favorites.

The park brochure provided some interesting information on the history of the area. It was originally part of land owned by Colonel Robert Bruce Ricketts, a Civil War veteran and later his heirs. According to the park brochure, the area was approved as a potential National Park site in the 1930’s but the outbreak of World War II diverted attention elsewhere.

The trail was rugged. It was easy to follow but often very natural, with stones as stairs and tree roots weaving their way across the path.

Not only were the waterfalls gorgeous, it was a beautiful falls day. The leaves were every shade of red, orange, yellow, and green.

At 94′ high, Ganoga Falls is the tallest in the park.

At about the half way point of the hike, there was an interesting rock formation. This area, called the Midway Crevasse and found along the Highland Trail, was situated between the two gorges carved out by the two branches of Kitchen Creek.

At the end of the loop, back where the two branches of Kitchen Creek meet, the hike was drawing to a close. It was not an easy hike, but in the roughly three and a half hours that we were on the trail, I thought of nothing but the beauty surrounding me and how fortunate I was to be in this space, with a body healthy enough to see it all. Sometimes taking the difficult path in life pays off, if we can just take a moment to appreciate it.

The trail less travelled?