Yosemite National Park

Lower Yosemite Falls

I have been to half of the national parks in the United States. From that list, I think Yosemite is my favorite, though that changes depending on what I am currently reflecting on! For 6 days and 5 nights in July of 2019, my family and I explored as much of this park as we could. Today I will share my favorite experiences from that trip with you, I hope that you have the chance to see it yourself someday and form your own impressions and memories.

Tioga Pass-Day 1

Yosemite National Park was the final destination on a longer trip through Northern California. We drove through the Sierra Nevadas once in order to make a stop at Lake Tahoe so to cross back over the mountains and arrive in Yosemite Valley, we entered the park for the first time at its eastern most entrance.

Our first introduction to Yosemite was the Tioga Pass and Tuolumne Meadows. One of my favorite memories is our first stop at Lembert dome. The area was nearly deserted, this was a pleasant surprise. I knew there would be crowds in the valley, I wasn’t sure what to expect in other areas of the park. On every national park trip I have taken, I have found a place all to myself to quietly enjoy. Lembert Dome did not disappoint. The kids stretched their legs, after being cooped up during the drive, by running up and down the dome. I sat and enjoyed the view.

View of Lembert Dome from the trail through Tuolumne Meadows.

The next stop along Tioga Road was Tenaya Lake. I would have loved to hike the 2.5 mile trail around the lake but we were racing the sun and wanted to save some daylight for our arrival in the valley.

We stopped one final time at Olmsted Point, named after the famous landscape architect. This was a low effort vista with incredible views of Half Dome’s northern side in front of us and Tenaya Lake behind us.

Our first glimpse of Half Dome from Olmsted Point.
View of Tenaya Lake from Olmsted Point.

As we turned from Tioga Road to Big Oak Flat and descended into the valley, we got our first view of the Merced River and Yosemite Valley. We checked off first sightings of Bridalveil Falls and El Capitan too before checking into our room at the Yosemite Valley Lodge as the sun set.

The Merced River with Bridalveil Falls in the background.
Bridalveil Falls
El Capitan

Yosemite Falls and drive to Glacier Point-Day 2

On our first full day, I was up early to walk to Yosemite Falls. At less than half a mile from the room where we stayed, I made this my daily routine. I loved getting there first thing in the morning when I had the falls all to myself!

The approach to Yosemite Falls, first thing in the morning.

After a day in the valley, we drove up to Glacier Point. A must see stop on the way is Tunnel View. The view of Bridalveil falls, Half Dome, and El Capitan forms the iconic image of Yosemite. Once above the valley at Glacier Point, the views of the valley below were amazing! The hike back down along the 4-mile trail is one of my favorite hikes of all time. You can read about that hike in another blog post here.

Tunnel View
View from Glacier Point
Close up of Vernal and Nevada Falls from Glacier Point

Biking in the Valley-Day 3

Traffic in the valley can become uncomfortably crowded in the summer. It is no fun to waste beautiful summer days in a car or bus. The valley is huge and even though we did walk from the lodge to Curry Village once, we found that the best way to explore the valley was by bicycle! Daily rentals are available at Yosemite Valley Bike Rental.

We get ready to head out on the bike trail right behind our building at Yosemite Valley Lodge.

After exploring the area around the lodge by bike, we picked up picnic supplies for a ride up to Mirror Lake. Our route was just under 4 miles to the lake. There is a point where bikes can be parked and the last leg uphill to Mirror Lake is walked. We ate our lunch, enjoyed the beautiful scenery, and then explored the lake.

The bike rental was for the whole day. It was a great way to maximize our time in the valley and avoid the crowds.

Floating down the Merced River-Day 4

This was the kids’ favorite activity from the trip! We met for a safety talk at Curry Village Raft Rentals, grabbed our rafts, and off we went! This is not a guided tour. You put in your raft of 2 or 3 people and float at your own pace, as fast or as slow as you like. You can stop at a sand bar along the Merced River and swim or relax in your raft and watch the scenery.

At the end of the trip, the raft company is there to help haul your raft out of the water and offer you a ride back to the starting point if you need it. This was a very relaxing adventure.

Exploring Wawona-Day 5

Wawona is the gateway to some of the biggest trees in Yosemite! Driving to this end of the park brings you to the Mariposa Grove Depot where a short bus ride takes you to well-maintained trails through one of Yosemite’s groves of Giant Sequoias.

Some of these trees, like the Grizzly Giant above right, are estimated to be over 3000 years old. They bear the scars of this age well. Fire is necessary for these trees to reproduce. The heat opens their seed cones and releases the seeds. While the flames clear the earth for the seeds to germinate, the Giant Sequoias themselves withstand the flames. Signs of past fires are on most of the trees. I like the metaphor. I try to think of these trees when facing my own trials, that it is difficult but necessary to grow.

The trees weren’t the only things of beauty in Mariposa Grove, the Lupine were in bloom.

After our hike we stopped at The Big Trees Lodge, formerly the Wawona Hotel, and now once again the Wawona Hotel, for a wonderful dinner before driving back down into the valley as the sun set on another perfect day.

Hiking the Mist trail to Vernal Falls-Day 6

Our final activity of the trip involved a hike to see a couple of the parks famous waterfalls. We took the valley shuttle bus to the Happy Isles Bridge stop. From there, you can hike the John Muir trail to the Mist trail up to the top of Vernal Falls. Even pretty early in the morning, this trail was crowded, but it was worth it. The wildlife didn’t seem to mind all the people.

A bear crosses in front of us on the trail.
Some sections of trail were pretty steep.
Vernal Falls

We hiked to the top of Vernal Falls and found a quiet spot to eat our packed lunch. After, we wandered up the trail a bit farther, until we could spot Nevada Falls as well. Then we retraced our steps back down. An alternative route that combines the Mist Trail with another leg of the John Muir trail would make a nice loop, but some family members were tired and ready to head back to the lodge and its swimming pool.

Nevada Falls in the distance.

Top 5 favorite hikes

Coming up with a list of my top 5 favorite hikes of all time was no easy task. I chose hikes not just for the trail or scenery, but for the particular emotional feel of that day. I encourage you to hike the trails on this list, but also to pick 5 hikes of your own that gave you a memorable experience of heightened emotion.


Number 5-Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook/Fairy Falls Trail, Yellowstone National Park

This was a great hike (meaning nobody complained) that I was able to take with my whole family while traveling through Wyoming in August 2020. This was just one experience we had together during a 2-week tour of Wyoming but it was a very memorable one. I think the combined victory of perfect weather and harmonious children was intensified on this trip by the realization that we were here, on vacation, after months of uncertainty due to the pandemic.

Looking at thermal features along the Firehole River, shortly after leaving the parking area.
Grand Prismatic Spring as seen from above.
Our first look at Fairy Falls
The spray was refreshing on a hot August day.

After returning from the falls, the parking lot for the boardwalk around Grand Prismatic Spring is a very short drive north. I highly recommend combining the hike up to the overlook with this short walk around the spring. The feeling you get as you the heat coming from the earth hits you is surreal.

Posted by Jennifer McMaster Lumia on Saturday, August 22, 2020

Number 4-Mt Marcy Summit from Johns Brook Lodge-ADK High Peaks Wilderness, New York

June of 2018-I had just closed out another school year and was excited about the great plans I had for summer. My first adventure was a hiking trip in the Adirondack High Peak Wilderness with a group of fellow teachers from all around WNY. We hiked in and stayed at Johns Brook Lodge for two nights. This lodge was a great starting point for the roughly 11-mile roundtrip hike to the summit of Mt Marcy. Mount Marcy, at 5344 feet, is the highest point in New York State.

After a great breakfast at the lodge, my friend Mary and I broke off from the group to start out on our hike. After about a mile and a half, there is a short but steep spur trail to take you to the beautiful Bushnell falls. Take the trail! It is well worth it.

Bushnell Falls

For several miles, we trudged through what appeared to be more of a seasonal stream bed than a trail but our lively conversation kept us going. Before long, we reached a break in the trees where we could assess how far we had ascended by taking in the view.

Our first look at the ADK wilderness from above.

For the last half mile or so, the trail opened up to bare rock. At this elevation, one enters an arctic-alpine zone. This ecosystem contains beautiful and fragile plants. If you hike this trail, please walk only on solid rock to protect these plants.

My friend Mary enjoys the view from the summit after our picnic lunch from the lodge.

We retraced our steps to return to the lodge with plenty of time to relax on the deck before rejoining our group for a hot meal. We were tired and sore but felt immensely accomplished after the completion of this bucket list hike.


Number 3-Cascade Falls Trail, Pembroke Virginia

February 2020, I embarked on a whirlwind trip with a good friend. Unlike most of my adventures where the planning is done by me, this trip was entirely planed by my friend Shane and I had the pleasure of enjoying 22 waterfalls and 40 miles of hiking over 5 days! Cascades Falls was the very last hike of a perfect trip which is probably why it was so memorable. The other reason I loved it was because of the suspense that built up as the trail snaked back and both along Little Stony Creek. At every turn you thought maybe the waterfall was just around the bend!

The trailhead for Cascade Falls is just north of Pembroke Virginia in the Jefferson National Forest. You can find the parking lot here. The hike to the falls, on this out and back trail, was just about two miles for a total of 4 miles round trip.

A look at the beautiful Little Stony Creek, not far from the trailhead.

Though it was February, there was still a lot of green on the trail. Mountain Laurel, mosses, and ferns were found throughout the area.

Not having planned this trip, I was not sure what the waterfall would look like. I was walking a little in front of my friend and thought maybe we had arrived when I saw the falls below, but it was just a pretty little seasonal fall along the trail, not on the main creek.

We continued around interesting bends in the creek, often along stone paths like this one below. I tried to discover the origin of this stonework online but only found that the trail was built in the 1960’s. If you know more about who built it, I would love to know!

And then finally, around the corner, the waterfall appears!

The 66′ Cascade Falls

I was fortunate to have the gift of time to sit and watch the cascading water for awhile. This hike, this trip, this moment were all truly worth waiting for. I was happy to relax and enjoy it.


Number 2-Four Mile Trail, one-way from Glacier Point to Swinging bridge, Yosemite National Park

Tunnel View. Our first stop on the drive up to Glacier Point.

In July of 2019, we took a family trip through northern California that ended in Yosemite National Park. I really wanted to hike this trail, but with kids in tow, knew that going down would be the only way to convince them it was worth it. You can book a shuttle for a one-way drive up to Glacier Point from the valley, but they were all sold out. My husband wanted me to have this experience so he drove us up to the top and my youngest child volunteered to be my hiking partner. The two older kids were happy to get a ride back down. This trip made the list not just for it’s sweeping views of an incredible landscape but also for the memory of the time spent with my son and the tradition this hiked started for us. Every trip we have taken since, he asks if we can do a hike, just the two of us.

The spectacular view from Glacier Point. Half dome is on the left. Vernal falls and Nevada Fall are on the right.
Close up of Half Dome, hovering over the valley.
Close up of Vernal falls and Nevada Fall

After taking in the view from Glacier point and stopping in the gift shop to buy popsicles, we were ready to head down the trail. The trail started out wooded but soon opened up to sweeping views of the valley below.

As we made our way down the switchbacks in the trail the view continued, Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, repeat.

Closeup of Upper and Lower Yosemite falls

It was a great hike. We took advantage of magic hour on the mountain and still made it down with plenty of daylight left. Once back in the valley, my mileage tracker told us we had hiked just over 6 miles. So much for the 4-mile trail!

We crossed over the Merced River at Swinging Bridge and headed back to the lodge for a big dinner with the rest of our family.


Number 1-Angel’s Landing, Zion National Park, Utah

My husband and I have always climbed things. On our very first trip together, we stopped at a roadside attraction because the sign said: “Climb our tower!” In Astoria Oregon, we climbed their column. On our honeymoon, we climbed the Arc D’ Triumph. Our daughter climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower as a fetus. Space Needle, Sears Tower, World Trade Center, CN Tower, Empire State Building…..we have climbed them all. So it’s fitting that we started climbing mountains. If there is a hill in life to get over, we will do it together. So my favorite hike of all time was climbing Angel’s Landing for our 15th wedding anniversary.

This trail, located in Zion National Park, is no easy feat. Though only about 5 miles round trip, what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in elevation gain! I first heard of this trail on our family trip to Zion in 2017. I really wanted to climb it, but not with the kids. I decided then that I would just have to return to Utah in the next few years!

In October, there was still plenty of green foliage, but signs of fall were spreading.
I look forward as we approach the first set of switchbacks.
Here we paused to examine our progress.
A look at the red rocks of Zion on a stretch of the trail known as refrigerator canyon.
As we continue to climb, the trail snakes back through the canyon behind us.

This first leg of the trail continues to gain steadily in elevation ending with the super steep switchbacks know as Walter’s Wiggles. This part of the trail is pretty wide and affords hikers nice views. It terminates at Scout Lookout and some people choose to pause here and then head back down.

A look at other hikers ascending the wiggles.
The canyon comes into view again in front of us.
The view from the top!

Before heading back down, we paused on this stretch of rock. There was no one else on this lesser-traveled stretch of trail heading away from Angel’s Landing. We watched as the mid-day crowds arrived at Scout Lookout and scurried up Angel’s Landing in front of us and we marveled at this little evergreen, growing out of such adversity. It was a perfect moment to appreciate how far we had come and a reminder of our own triumphs over adversity.

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