October, 2020 | US travel with us!

Top 5 favorite hikes

Coming up with a list of my top 5 favorite hikes of all time was no easy task. I chose hikes not just for the trail or scenery, but for the particular emotional feel of that day. I encourage you to hike the trails on this list, but also to pick 5 hikes of your own that gave you a memorable experience of heightened emotion.

Number 5-Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook/Fairy Falls Trail, Yellowstone National Park

This was a great hike (meaning nobody complained) that I was able to take with my whole family while traveling through Wyoming in August 2020. This was just one experience we had together during a 2-week tour of Wyoming but it was a very memorable one. I think the combined victory of perfect weather and harmonious children was intensified on this trip by the realization that we were here, on vacation, after months of uncertainty due to the pandemic.

Looking at thermal features along the Firehole River, shortly after leaving the parking area.

Grand Prismatic Spring as seen from above.

As the trail moves away from the thermal area, the number of Lodgepole Pine trees increased dramatically.

The spray was refreshing on a hot August day.

After returning from the falls, the parking lot for the boardwalk around Grand Prismatic Spring is a very short drive north. I highly recommend combining the hike up to the overlook with this short walk around the spring. The feeling you get as you the heat coming from the earth hits you is surreal.

Posted by Jennifer McMaster Lumia on Saturday, August 22, 2020

Number 4-Mt Marcy Summit from Johns Brook Lodge-ADK High Peaks Wilderness, New York

June of 2018-I had just closed out another school year and was excited about the great plans I had for summer. My first adventure was a hiking trip in the Adirondack High Peak Wilderness with a group of fellow teachers from all around WNY. We hiked in and stayed at Johns Brook Lodge for two nights. This lodge was a great starting point for the roughly 11-mile roundtrip hike to the summit of Mt Marcy. Mount Marcy, at 5344 feet, is the highest point in New York State.

After a great breakfast at the lodge, my friend Mary and I broke off from the group to start out on our hike. After about a mile and a half, there is a short but steep spur trail to take you to the beautiful Bushnell falls. Take the trail! It is well worth it.

For several miles, we trudged through what appeared to be more of a seasonal stream bed than a trail but our lively conversation kept us going. Before long, we reached a break in the trees where we could assess how far we had ascended by taking in the view.

Our first look at the ADK wilderness from above.

For the last half mile or so, the trail opened up to bare rock. At this elevation, one enters an arctic-alpine zone. This ecosystem contains beautiful and fragile plants. If you hike this trail, please walk only on solid rock to protect these plants.

My friend Mary enjoys the view from the summit after our picnic lunch from the lodge.

We retraced our steps to return to the lodge with plenty of time to relax on the deck before rejoining our group for a hot meal. We were tired and sore but felt immensely accomplished after the completion of this bucket list hike.

Number 3-Cascade Falls Trail, Pembroke Virginia

February 2020, I embarked on a whirlwind trip with a good friend. Unlike most of my adventures where the planning is done by me, this trip was entirely planed by my friend Shane and I had the pleasure of enjoying 22 waterfalls and 40 miles of hiking over 5 days! Cascades Falls was the very last hike of a perfect trip which is probably why it was so memorable. The other reason I loved it was because of the suspense that built up as the trail snaked back and both along Little Stony Creek. At every turn you thought maybe the waterfall was just around the bend!

The trailhead for Cascade Falls is just north of Pembroke Virginia in the Jefferson National Forest. You can find the parking lot here. The hike to the falls, on this out and back trail, was just about two miles for a total of 4 miles round trip.

A look at the beautiful Little Stony Creek, not far from the trailhead.

Though it was February, there was still a lot of green on the trail. Mountain Laurel, mosses, and ferns were found throughout the area.

Not having planned this trip, I was not sure what the waterfall would look like. I was walking a little in front of my friend and thought maybe we had arrived when I saw the falls below, but it was just a pretty little seasonal fall along the trail, not on the main creek.

We continued around interesting bends in the creek, often along stone paths like this one below. I tried to discover the origin of this stonework online but only found that the trail was built in the 1960’s. If you know more about who built it, I would love to know!

And then finally, around the corner, the waterfall appears!

I was fortunate to have the gift of time to sit and watch the cascading water for awhile. This hike, this trip, this moment were all truly worth waiting for. I was happy to relax and enjoy it.

Number 2-Four Mile Trail, one-way from Glacier Point to Swinging bridge, Yosemite National Park

Tunnel View. Our first stop on the drive up to Glacier Point.

In July of 2019, we took a family trip through northern California that ended in Yosemite National Park. I really wanted to hike this trail, but with kids in tow, knew that going down would be the only way to convince them it was worth it. You can book a shuttle for a one-way drive up to Glacier Point from the valley, but they were all sold out. My husband wanted me to have this experience so he drove us up to the top and my youngest child volunteered to be my hiking partner. The two older kids were happy to get a ride back down. This trip made the list not just for it’s sweeping views of an incredible landscape but also for the memory of the time spent with my son and the tradition this hiked started for us. Every trip we have taken since, he asks if we can do a hike, just the two of us.

The spectacular view from Glacier Point. Half dome is on the left. Vernal falls and Nevada Fall are on the right.

Close up of Half Dome, hovering over the valley.

Close up of Vernal falls and Nevada Fall

After taking in the view from Glacier point and stopping in the gift shop to buy popsicles, we were ready to head down the trail. The trail started out wooded but soon opened up to sweeping views of the valley below.

As we made our way down the switchbacks in the trail the view continued, Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, repeat.

Closeup of Upper and Lower Yosemite falls

It was a great hike. We took advantage of magic hour on the mountain and still made it down with plenty of daylight left. Once back in the valley, my mileage tracker told us we had hiked just over 6 miles. So much for the 4-mile trail!

We crossed over the Merced River at Swinging Bridge and headed back to the lodge for a big dinner with the rest of our family.

Number 1-Angel’s Landing, Zion National Park, Utah

My husband and I have always climbed things. On our very first trip together, we stopped at a roadside attraction because the sign said: “Climb our tower!” In Astoria Oregon, we climbed their column. On our honeymoon, we climbed the Arc D’ Triumph. Our daughter climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower as a fetus. Space Needle, Sears Tower, World Trade Center, CN Tower, Empire State Building…..we have climbed them all. So it’s fitting that we started climbing mountains. If there is a hill in life to get over, we will do it together. So my favorite hike of all time was climbing Angel’s Landing for our 15th wedding anniversary.

This trail, located in Zion National Park, is no easy feat. Though only about 5 miles round trip, what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in elevation gain! I first heard of this trail on our family trip to Zion in 2017. I really wanted to climb it, but not with the kids. I decided then that I would just have to return to Utah in the next few years!

In October, there was still plenty of green foliage, but signs of fall were spreading.

I look forward as we approach the first set of switchbacks.

A look at the red rocks of Zion on a stretch of the trail known as refrigerator canyon.

As we continue to climb, the trail snakes back through the canyon behind us.

This first leg of the trail continues to gain steadily in elevation ending with the super steep switchbacks know as Walter’s Wiggles. This part of the trail is pretty wide and affords hikers nice views. It terminates at Scout Lookout and some people choose to pause here and then head back down.

A look at other hikers ascending the wiggles.

The sandy “boot road” at Scout Lookout. This a good place to rest before heading out to the Landing.

Chains along the final leg of the trail were put in by the National Park Service to improve the safety of this hike.

The rocks were beautiful and popular with climbers. Look closely at the photo on the right!

The canyon comes into view again in front of us.

Before heading back down, we paused on this stretch of rock. There was no one else on this lesser-traveled stretch of trail heading away from Angel’s Landing. We watched as the mid-day crowds arrived at Scout Lookout and scurried up Angel’s Landing in front of us and we marveled at this little evergreen, growing out of such adversity. It was a perfect moment to appreciate how far we had come and a reminder of our own triumphs over adversity.

Frenchtown, NJ

October 2020 brought us to Frenchtown, NJ for a couple’s weekend while the kids stayed with Oma for the weekend! Why Frenchtown? It was within a 6-hour drive, had plenty of outdoor activity nearby, and was in a state that did not require us to quarantine after we returned! I did a quick google search for the best small towns and Frenchtown met our requirements! Frenchtown sits right on the Delaware River which forms the border between western New Jersey and eastern Pennsylvania.

I booked three nights at the National Hotel. We arrived after 9:00pm the first night, but the dining room was open until 10:00. I loved the feel of renting a room above the restaurant in this old hotel. The service was great and the staff were all friendly.

Facade, stairs, and lobby of the National Hotel

Day 1

The next day was a beautiful fall day. We took a walk along the Delaware River and the Uhlerstown-Frenchtown bridge which crosses the river. Then we had breakfast at the Frenchtown Cafe before heading out on our bikes to explore the Delaware and Raritan bike path.

Sidewalk in front of the Frenchtown Cafe

The bike path! Wow, what a great find. There are actually two paths, one on each side of the river. The D&R Canal towpath trail is on the New Jersey side and the Delaware Canal towpath trail is on the Pennsylvania side. Both paths are about 60 miles long and there are multiple bridges across the river so you can spend a few hours or a whole day making a loop or figure 8’s along the trails.

bike path near parking in Frenchtown, great orientation sign along trail, a pedestrian bridge crossing

There was beautiful scenery on both sides of the Delaware river. The New Jersey side was wider, with the Pennsylvania side often being only wide enough for a single bike, but both sides were equally scenic.

There were a lot of well preserved remnants of the the days when canals in this area were essential for bringing resources to manufacturing centers during the industrial revolution. The D&R canal transported freight between Philadelphia and New York. The Delaware Canal has retained most all of its features from its operations in the 1800’s even though the last paid canal fare was in 1931 when railroads overtook canals as a means of efficient transport.

There was no shortage of interesting historical markers or quiet places to stop and rest along the trail.

We rode our bikes from Frenchtown on the D&R towpath trail to the pedestrian bridge at Bull Island. We crossed the river here but continued south and crossed again to arrive in the quiet town of Stockton, NJ. We stopped for lunch at the Stockton Market, an indoor farmer’s market with an eclectic mix of offerings.

Sign at the entrance of the Bull Island Recreation area along the tow path bike trail.

After lunch we headed back north, crossed the pedestrian bridge again to bike up the Delaware Canal towpath trail on the Pennsylvania side of the river. We finished 28 miles of biking with a great covered bridge before crossing one more time back into Frenchtown.

After our busy day of biking, we dined at the Frenchtown Inn. To encourage greater social distancing, they converted outdoor space into a unique dining experience. It was a relaxing meal with a view of the bridge and the Delaware River.

Day 2

Day 2 was a drive to investigate a nearby county park, the surrounding area, and Washington Crossing Historic Park.

Ringing Rocks County Park was a little gem of a place. The highlight was its boulder field full of rocks that resonate different pitches when hit. The rocks showed scars from all the attempts at making music here!

Scars on the rocks were they have been struck.

The trail at Ringing Rocks formed a loop that took you around the boulder field and past a seasonal waterfall. The trail was wooded and well marked.

Season waterfall, just a trickle in October

After hiking the roughly 1-mile loop around ringing rocks we took a scenic drive through eastern PA to pass through the Frankenfield covered bridge on our way to Washington Crossing Historic Park.

After reading 1776 by David McCullough a few years ago, I had a vivid mental picture of what George Washington’s Christmas crossing of the Delaware was like. I was excited to find that the location was not far from Frenchtown while I was planning this trip. On the drive there we passed signs for Bowman’s Hill Tower and made a quick stop there. There is an entrance fee and they recommend reserving an entrance time online in advance. The website can be found here.

The view from the top of Bowman’s Hill Tower

The majority of the park was just a short drive down the road from the tower. The park preserves several buildings present during the 1776 crossing. My favorite was McConkey’s Inn, located right next to the Delaware River. The sign said that this inn was where Washington and his aides ate dinner prior to the crossing.

Sign marking the crossing on the New Jersey side of the river.

The common thread running through the sights we visited was the power of transformation. This area was transformed from untamed wild, to purposed for human use, to abandonment, to a balance between their history, preservation, and enjoyment. May we all find this balance in our travels. May we pay tribute to the past with an eye for sustainable balance in the future.

Rickett’s Glen State Park

On October 12th, 2020 we took advantage of a drive across Pennsylvania to stop at Rickett’s Glen State Park to hike one of my bucket list trails. The trailhead is off of PA 118 about 24 miles west of Wilkes-Barre, PA. From the sign at the entrance to the park and combining the Falls trail, Ganoga Glen trail, Highland trail, and Glen Leigh trail, we hiked 8.1 miles in a lollipop formation to see all 21 of the park’s named waterfalls!

Above are two of the first falls we encountered. Murray Reynolds at the top at 16′ high and Harrison Wright at 27′ tall.

Tuscarora at 47′ tall, was one of my favorites.

The park brochure provided some interesting information on the history of the area. It was originally part of land owned by Colonel Robert Bruce Ricketts, a Civil War veteran and later his heirs. According to the park brochure, the area was approved as a potential National Park site in the 1930’s but the outbreak of World War II diverted attention elsewhere.

The trail was rugged. It was easy to follow but often very natural, with stones as stairs and tree roots weaving their way across the path.

Not only were the waterfalls gorgeous, it was a beautiful falls day. The leaves were every shade of red, orange, yellow, and green.

At 94′ high, Ganoga Falls is the tallest in the park.

At about the half way point of the hike, there was an interesting rock formation. This area, called the Midway Crevasse and found along the Highland Trail, was situated between the two gorges carved out by the two branches of Kitchen Creek.

At the end of the loop, back where the two branches of Kitchen Creek meet, the hike was drawing to a close. It was not an easy hike, but in the roughly three and a half hours that we were on the trail, I thought of nothing but the beauty surrounding me and how fortunate I was to be in this space, with a body healthy enough to see it all. Sometimes taking the difficult path in life pays off, if we can just take a moment to appreciate it.

The trail less travelled?