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Mesa Verde National Park

Wondering what tour to take while visiting Mesa Verde National Park? It is always a good idea to plan ahead. Visit the NPS website for the park, here. This is the best place to learn about what tours are currently available and what areas of the park may be closed. Then head to Recreation.gov to make your reservations! I recommend downloading the app and checking it often. Different parks have different booking windows and tours often sell out very quickly. Here is what we found to do!

Entering the Park

The park entrance sign and visitor center are located right off Colorado Route 160. The location of the visitor center can be found here. The furthest cliff dwellings are an hour’s drive from the visitor center, make sure you take this into account when planning your arrival time.

Where we stayed

One option to break up the driving and immerse yourself in Mesa Verde is to stay at the Far View Lodge. This is the only in-park lodging, located a half hour from the visitor center. We spent 2 nights here in 2021 and were very pleased with our stay.

view of Far View Lodge building

After our second day in the park, we dined in the Metate Dining room (reservations recommended, more info here) located in the Lodge’s registration building. The entire family loved their meals which contained a lot of locally inspired flavors.

view from balcony at Far View Lodge

Above is the view at sunset from our balcony at Far View Lodge. Not only did the lodge’s location get us closer to the cliff dwellings and maximize our time in the park, but the real show occurred after dark. Mesa Verde sits at the center of the darkest skies remaining in the contiguous United States.

Driving Mesa Top Ruins Road

Day 1, after leaving the visitor center and before checking into Far View Lodge around 4:00 pm, we made some stops along Mesa Top Ruins Road.

Knife Edge

From the Montezuma Valley Overlook, the remnants of an old park road can be viewed.

Park Point

Another pull-off along Mesa Top Ruins Road was Park Point. Here you are 8572 feet above sea level. It is the highest point in the park. On a clear day, 3 different mountain ranges are in view. We had haze due to forest fires in the west but it was still a great spot to stretch our legs on the short paved path up to the fire tower.

After checking in at the lodge, we ventured out to see our first cliff dwellings! From the lodge, there are two routes to cliff dwellings. Mesa Top Ruins Road continues for ten minutes from the lodge and splits into 2 loops just after the Spruce Tree House area. The left loop takes you to Cliff Palace, perhaps the park’s most famous dwellings. The right loop takes you to Square Tower House. Both loops contain several other stops as well.

The other route from the lodge is Wetherill Mesa Road. Though closed in 2023, this was the route we took to see Long House and Step House in 2021.

Spruce Tree House

We arrived at our first cliff dwelling during magic hour. The sandstone was beautifully bathed in the light of the setting sun. The view of Spruce Tree House below is just a short walk from the main parking lot. Also, accessible from this area are the Petroglyph Point trail and the Chapin Mesa Museum.

Cliff Palace from Sun Temple

In 2020, the portion of Mesa Top Ruins Road that looped by Balcony House and Cliff Palace was closed. There is a great view of Cliff Palace from the Mesa Top Loop Road, however. By driving this loop and stopping at Sun Temple, we were able to view Cliff Palace at sunset and then again the next day shortly after sunrise.

in the evening
in morning

Square Tower House

For our second day at the park, we started with the view of Cliff Palace from Sun Temple shown above and then headed around the Mesa Top Loop again to tour Square Tower House. This was one of the tours we booked in advance and due to the small size of the group, this tour sells out fast. It was totally worth it if you have the opportunity to go!

The view approaching Square Tower House
The view looking away from Square Tower House

More information for the Square Tower House tour can be found here.

Square Tower House tour

Long House

Located on Wetherill Mesa, parking for Long House was 40 minutes away from where we ended our Square Tower House tour. It was fairly easy to do both on the same day. We booked the Square Tower tour first for 8:30 am. Then booked the Long House tour for 1:00 pm. Even with the drive between the two mesas, this gave us time to grab a quick lunch from our room between the two tours. Cliff Palace tours were not running in 2021 and Long House tours are not running in 2023 so make sure to always check the NPS site for the most up-to-date information.

The meeting point for the Long House tour was a 20-minute walk on a paved walkway from the parking lot. The trail to Long House is another 10-minute walk beyond that, so be sure to leave yourself enough time.

Rangers are located at different stops along the path through Long House. This was different from the single ranger that accompanied us to Square Tower. There were a lot more people on this tour but there were enough rangers to answer our questions. We were the first group, of the first tour, for the afternoon. Since there were no tours before us, it felt like we had the place to ourselves. If booking, you may want to select the first tour after lunch as well to have a more intimate experience.

Step House

Also located on Wetherill Mesa, this area is a self-guided walk-through a lesser-preserved cliff dwelling. Though not as intricate as Square Tower, Cliff Palace, or Long House this did not require an advanced ticket. The entrance is close to the parking lot for Long House so we checked it out before heading back to Far View for dinner.

Far View Area

One last stop was a small village of dwellings near the lodge, referred to as the Far View community. The Far View sites were believed to be established before the development of cliff dwellings by the Ancestral Pueblo people.

On day 3 we left the park early in the morning to head to our next destinations, the Four Corners Monument and Navajo Tribal Park, Hovenweep National Monument, Newspaper Rock, and finally Moab, Utah where we planned to hike the next day to Delicate Arch! Sign up below to follow along!

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Death Valley National Park-Two days to see the largest park in the continental US

Death Valley National Park is absolutely stunning! The vistas are varied. The mountains are majestic. The landscape is light and airy. We traveled to the California desert in February. This time of year the temperatures were cool and sunny; daytime highs were in the 70’s and the nighttime lows were in the 40’s. The weather was perfect for hiking and we did not encounter the crowds that are so often present during the summer in the parks. It was a very enjoyable trip. Here is what we found to do!

Sunrise at Zabriskie Point

We arrived at the park after dark the first night, greeted only by the luminous stars in the sky! I could not wait to see what the landscape we drove through the night before looked like. I was the first one up, well before the sun, and I convinced my 14-year-old to join me for sunrise at Zabriskie Point.

It was a chilly morning. Zabriskie Point is one of the most famous viewpoints in the park and should not be missed. The trail from the parking area to the overlook is less than half a mile but it does climb uphill. There is also a trailhead to the Gower Gulch Trail from this parking lot if you wish to avoid the crowds and cross the landscape to Golden Canyon. Information about looping this trail for a longer hike can be found at the NPS site here.

The spectacular colors painted over Badwater Basin and the Panamint Mountains as the sun rises.

The Ranch at Death Valley

Getting an early start is helped by staying in the park. We chose The Ranch at Death Valley. It is located in the Furnace Creek area on the east side of the park. The hotel room style accommodations were cramped but worth it for the location. Also on the grounds were a small grocery/gift shop, a couple of restaurants, a pool, a golf course, and a gas station. Make sure you fill up outside of the park, however, the cost of gas was over $7 a gallon (in 2022). The Furnace Creek Visitor Center is right next door.

Dante’s View

After returning from our sunrise trip, the whole family set out for Dante’s view. We retraced our drive from the previous night and took in the beautiful scenery. This also gave us a chance for a photo in front of the park sign!

Dante’s View was a 35-minute drive from the Ranch. It provided sweeping views of Badwater Basin below. Telescope Peak in the mountains across the valley was topped with snow. We walked to the end of the point at Dante’s view and then along the ridge trail toward Mount Perry. We had solitude and sunshine the whole way.

20 Mule Canyon

Our rental van, just off the road, as we explore 20 Mule Canyon on foot.

Driving northwest again on Rt 190 to head back toward Furnace Creek, we took the turnoff to drive through 20 Mule Canyon. This wasn’t one of my must-see stops but it was a very pleasant surprise! Again, we were alone on this 2.8 mile packed dirt road. At one point we pulled over and walked a bit on the parched land. This was the site of one of many borax mines; the shiny white traces of the mineral still present just beneath the surface in spots.

Coming from cold, grey days in western New York, it was very nice to just sit in the sun for a few minutes and enjoy the view.

Badwater Basin

This was my favorite stop of the day! We descended from an elevation of 5,575 feet at Dante’s View to 282 feet below sea level in Badwater Basin! I had been really looking forward to seeing the odd geometric shapes in the salt flats. This was the busiest spot we checked out that day and we also arrived around 1:00 pm, probably the busiest time of day. Venturing off the boardwalk, it seemed like the salt flats were too worn down by walkers to present the way I envisioned. I tightened my hat even tighter, it was really windy, and set out to pass all the people milling about to see if I could find a spot less trampled.

Success! I probably walked a little over a mile until there was no one in front of me anymore. The wind was still blowing fiercely but the warm sun kept it from chilling me. I was alone with the weird geometric salt pan spread out before me. Soon my family caught up and I snapped plenty of photos while they giggled in the windy playground of parched earth.

Here, the lowest point in America and the highest point in the continental United States are only 84 miles apart. The fascinating shapes on the ground below my feet are formed when groundwater rises up through the earth and evaporates, leaving behind the salty residuals from an ancient inland sea.

Natural Bridge

Driving back up Badwater Road now, there were so many spots to check out! Our next stop was the road to Natural Bridge. Though unpaved, we were able to make it the 1.5 miles with our rental van without a problem. From the parking lot, the trail to Natural Bridge is just under 1-mile, all uphill. The beautiful blue skies were a nice contrast to the canyon walls.

This was a short stop but definitely worth it in my opinion.

Devil’s Golf Course

Another quick stop, the Devil’s Golf Course was named for the odd and sometimes dangerously sharp mounds of salt that, again, form from the rising and evaporating groundwater.

Artist’s Drive

Another detour off Badwater Road that is worth taking is Artist’s Drive. We made several stops along this scenic route.

An overlook, at the first pull off on Artist’s Drive

About 3 miles into the 9-mile artist’s drive, there is a little pull-off on the right. You will not find this canyon on the map but there is room for a few cars to park and explore this secret canyon here.

We hiked no more than half a mile in, but the kids enjoyed the rock scrambling along the way.

After leaving our secret canyon, the next stop was Artist’s Palette. The sun was getting lower in the sky which really brought the colorful hills alive.

Artist’s Palette is a commonly photographed vista in Death Valley. The different colors are caused by the oxidation of different minerals. Iron turns red, Manganese turns purple, and Mica turns green. Just like us, the hills glow when just dressed up a little.

Golden Canyon

Our last stop on our first day was Golden Canyon. The Golden Canyon Trail would have taken us right back to Zabriskie Point where our day started but we were losing daylight and only hiked in about a mile before retracing our steps. The whole network of trails through this area can be found here.

Golden Canyon is also of special interest to Star Wars fans. It was here that the Jawas carried R2-D2 away in the 1977 film, A New Hope.

My family enjoyed the scenery, even if the droids were no longer around.

It was a very busy, very satisfying first day in Death Valley. We headed back to the lodge as the sun set to lay out plans for Day 2.

Rt 190

No trip to Death Valley can take place without driving the long expanse of road known as California route 190. This road crosses the park covering some 81 miles from the eastern park entrance sign to the western park entrance sign. We drove the whole distance, some of the most visually pleasing images of that drive are shown below.

Salt Creek

Our first hike on day 2 was the Salt Creek Interpretive Trail. This .5 mile lollipop loop trail traces the quiet Salt Creek, home of the Salt Creek Pupfish. From the parking lot, a boardwalk path snakes over and around Salt Creek, which flows in winter and spring. The playful-looking pupfish were easy to spot in the creek. The have adapted to very warm waters as well as salinity twice that of the ocean.

It was here, along Salt Creek, that the persistence of life really becomes obvious. Death Valley, despite its name, is not a harsh desert wasteland at all. It is full of plants and animals uniquely adapted to their environment, scratching out their lives, finding a way to survive. It should serve as a good reminder to humans that life is both fragile and resilient, that our environments dictate our success based on our unique strengths, and that unlike the pupfish, we can change that.

Mesquite Sand Dunes

As a kid, I thought desert meant sand as far as the eye can see. Though I have visited many desert regions, I had not encountered inland sand dunes until a trip to Great Sand Dune National Park in Colorado. The Mesquite Sand Dunes were just as grand. We arrived early to view the ripples in the sand free of foot prints, it was majestic.

U2 Joshua Tree Shrine

On a lark, I looked up the coordinates for the site of the U2 photo shoot for the album Joshua Tree. I learned that the tree was gone, but that a shrine had been erected amongst its decaying branches. I had to check it out.

Located just outside the western park entrance, the drive there itself was spectacular. I love Joshua Trees. If you do too, you can view more of them by visiting my post on what to do in Joshua Tree National Park here. I was pleasantly surprised to drive into the proper environmental conditions again in Death Valley and to see the trees with a dusting of fresh snow against the equally powdered mountains.

The shrine was easy to find and felt so adventurous! The GPS coordinates led to an open expanse, we just pulled off of CA 190 and started walking. If you are a fan of the band this is a cool stop to check out!

Darwin Falls

There is water in Death Valley! We took a rough dirt road two and a half-mile off the main route to get to the trailhead for Darwin Falls. We then hiked the roughly 1-mile trail to the waterfall.

My family was having a difficult time believing me when I said we were hiking to a waterfall. The hike started up the canyon through a dry creek bed. After half a mile, there was some green in the vegetation and we even saw some flowers blooming….but still not water.

Eventually, and almost out of nowhere, the ground became damp. The trees grew taller. We could hear and see songbirds! At about 18 feet high, Darwin Falls was indeed a unique spot to explore in Death Valley.

Devil’s Corn Field

A quick stop along Rt 190, these Arrowweed shrubs grow in formations that resemble bundled corn. Almost looking like they are planted in neat rows, this was an interesting enough roadside attraction to stop at and take a photo with the mountains behind them.

Sunset over the Mesquite Sand Dunes

The sun was setting on another adventure. The kids wanted to hit Mesquite Sand Dunes one more time in order to act out their own version of Luke Skywalker staring off into a Tatooine sunset (0r two, they believed the second sun was hidden behind the clouds). Cue in Binary Sunset by John Williams, I think they captured it pretty well.

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Featured

Finally Finding Moose

Traveling with children, the highlight is often the wildlife we encounter. We saw a bobcat in Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park and a grizzly bear in Glacier. Black bears were encountered in the Great Smokey Mountains, Yosemite, and Yellowstone. Bison were spotted in Theodore Roosevelt National park, Badlands, and Wind Cave. All of these were great sightings! What my family really wanted to see, however, were moose.

A journey to and through Rocky Mountain National Park

Traveling with children, the highlight is often the wildlife we encounter. We saw a bobcat in Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park and a grizzly bear in Glacier. Black bears were encountered in the Great Smokey Mountains, Yosemite, and Yellowstone. Bison were spotted in Theodore Roosevelt National park, Badlands, and Wind Cave. All of these were great sightings! What my family really wanted to see, however, were moose.

We had tried in the past. On a trip to Acadia National Park in Maine, we drove north of the Bar Harbor tourist area and booked a lodge on Moosehead Lake. Not just a deceiving name, moose were spotted regularly here. We didn’t want to leave it to luck, so we booked a tour with a local operator and went on a moose safari! Three hours on the backroads and waterways of Maine….. no moose. On another trip, we stayed in Grand Teton National Park at the Signal Mountain Lodge for 5 nights. Each morning the board at the various ranger stations would list the moose sightings the day before. On the trail past Inspiration Point through Cascade Canyon, we passed hikers going in the opposite direction who had just seen a large bull moose! We continued on….. no moose. We hoped to break this streak of mooselessness with a trip to Rocky Mountain National Park.

We have visited Rocky Mountain National Park twice. RMNP can be reached by 4 different entrances. In 2016, we took a day trip here from Denver, so we focused on the east side. We knew we wouldn’t be able to see it all in a day, so we saved the Bear Lake, Wild Basin, and west sides of the park and returned in 2021 for another trip. The western side is also known for its moose habitat. Here is what we found to do!

The East Side

We entered the park through the Fall River Entrance. We knew we wanted to drive up the winding Old Fall River Road which had just opened for the season the week before. Sometimes this road is still snow-covered into July. Our first stop, though, was the Alluvial Fan Trailhead.

The Alluvial Fan

If you have kids who like to scramble around rocks, this is the spot for you.

Endovalley picnic area

Since we were staying in Denver (a little over an hour away from the park entrance) on this trip, by the time we were done climbing rocks at the alluvial fan, the kids were already hungry. We pulled off at the Endovalley picnic area to eat our packed lunch. After eating we followed a path to a pretty little stream.

Old Fall River Road and Chasm Falls

Just after the Endovalley picnic area, the one-way Old Fall River Road begins. This unpaved road is an adventure in itself as it snakes its way from an elevation of 8,500 to 11,700 at the Alpine Ridge visitor center.

The packed dirt Old Fall River road

Highlights along the Old Fall River road drive include the 25-foot Chasm Falls and the elk that are often lolling about near the end of the road.

Chasm Falls
Looking back down Old Fall River Road from the Alpine Visitor Center.

Alpine Ridge Trail

We arrived at the Alpine Visitor Center around 2:00pm. It was July 2nd, but the remains of the winter’s snow were still present. At the Alpine Visitor center, there are restrooms, a gift shop, interpretive exhibits, and a lovely veranda to just sit and enjoy the view. My favorite activity here was the Alpine Ridge Trail. Starting just steps from the parking lot, it takes you up over 400 stairs to reach an elevation of 12,005 feet.

At this elevation the trees give way to tiny alpine tundra plants. The small flowers are a testament to life’s perservence amidst the greatest difficulties.

Tundra Communities Trail

After the vistitor center and alpine ridge trail, we started our descent on the Trail Ridge Road. This road traverses the entire park but we were using it to return to our starting point in Estes Park.

One stop we enjoyed was the Tundra Communities Trail. The hike is only 1 mile on a paved trail but the elevation and beautiful views make you want to take it nice and slow. A benchmark at the top helps one orient themself to the views in front of them but in my opinion, the tiny alpine tundra plants stole the show.

Hidden Valley

Back down below 10,000 feet, we stopped one final time to rest and enjoy the warmer air at the Hidden Valley picnic area. I am always a bit sad to leave a park but I was confident that we would return.

Between this trip and our more recent visit to Colorado, our family travels took us to Utah’s big 5, Acadia and northern Maine, Northern California, and Wyoming’s Yellowstone and Grand Teton Parks. We had encountered most of the North American megafauna but one animal was still eluding us, the moose.

The West Side

We returned to the park in 2021. It was our final destination on a road trip to visit all of Colorado’s National Parks. We spent two nights in a beautiful A-frame rental that we found on VRBO. It was 12 minutes to the trailhead for Adams Falls and 5 minutes to the Kawuneeche Visitor Center. The west side entrance of the park is near the town of Grand Lake. It was very charming and did not have the overwhelming crowds of Estes Park. I chose the rental I did because the listing displayed pictures of moose seen from the home!

First “sighting”

Up before the sun with excitement, I bundled up to enjoy my morning coffee on the deck. As the sun was rising, I heard munching in the brush 20 yards from the house. The light was still dim and I could not get a photo but my youngest came out to join me just in time to be treated to the flank of a retreating moose. Sighting number 1! They do exist! The rest of the family, however, was still skeptical.

Adams Falls

Leaving the kids to sleep in and have a relaxed breakfast, my husband and I drove to the other side of Grand Lake to hike the short trail to Adams Falls. The parking area can be found here. Though this trail does not require driving into the park through a major entrance, a valid park pass is still required. Information about purchasing passes can be found here. When timed entry passes are required in addition to the standard park pass, this is a trailhead that can still be accessed at any time.

The short hike to Adams Falls is only .3 miles.

After exploring the falls, we ventured along the East Inlet Trail. The trail followed the East Inlet a bit before passing through an open meadow and then entering into some thicker forests. Back in the forest, about 50 feet off the trail, moose number two was lurking, munching her way through the vegetation.

The elusive moose.

Trail Ridge Road

We scooped up the kids from the rental and set off to see the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park. We picked up the Trail Ridge Road, intent on covering all the ground we had missed out on 5 years before. After passing through some burn scar, including a partially destroyed entrance gate, from the fall 2020 East Troublesome fire, our first stop was the Coyote Valley Trail. This pleasant 1-mile trail is flat and wheelchair/stroller accessible. It also gave us a chance to get up close to the Colorado River.

A walk along the Coyote Valley Trail

Lake Irene Picnic Area

Our lunch stop for the day was the Lake Irene Picnic Area. Parking was a bit crowded but once we found a spot there were plenty of open picnic tables. After eating we strolled down to the lake and this was where we had our best moose sighting yet!

As we walked along the edge of the water, a mother moose brought her calf down to the water’s edge on the opposite side of the lake. We stood and just watched for a very long time.

The return to the Alpine Ridge Trail

Our goal for the day, other than finding moose, was to make it back to the Alpine Visitor Center. After a stop at the gift shop, I convinced the boys to hike the Alpine Ridge Trail with me again. It was August 13th and it was just starting to snow!

Here comes the snow!

We retraced our path back to Grand Lake, satisfied that we had now traveled all of Trail Ridge Road and satisfied with our grand moose sighting! But before leaving the park, we spotted moose numbers 5 and 6!

Then moose number 7…the end.

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Featured

Delicate Arch Daydream

Dreaming of visiting the iconic delicate arch in Utah’s Arches National Park? I was after a quick trip in 2017 allowed us time to drive through the park but not hike this staple of Utah license plates! We had the opportunity to visit Moab again in 2021. Here is what we found to do!

Get there early!

This is a popular hike and we were visiting in early August. To beat the heat and the crowds we were in the park by sunrise. The warm, early morning light danced on the red rocks making for surreal colors all around. At 6:30 am, the sun was just coming up and the parking lot was already half full. We took our time getting gear on, plenty of water is a must, and using the facilities at the trailhead. As we started the hike, the sun was a glowing red ball in front of us.

The trail!

There are two areas to view Delicate Arch. One takes you to a viewpoint with the arch just visible one mile away. A better view is achieved by taking the 3-mile hike to the base of the arch. The hike is exposed and can be very warm in the summer or very icy in the winter. It gains almost 500 feet in elevation but the effort is very much worth the experience of being up close to this geologic wonder.

The approach!

After climbing for about a mile, the path levels off. For a neat first view of Delicate Arch, don’t miss Twisted Doughnut Arch. Located on the right near the end of the trail, it is a quick climb to peer at Delicate Arch through its opening.

Another unnamed arch is in the distance as we get ready to round the final bend before Delicate Arch.

Enjoying the Delicate Arch!

Arches National Park’s Delicate Arch

Delicate arch seemed bigger than it looked in photos. The opening beneath the arch is 46 feet high. It sits atop a giant sandstone bowl that allows the many people who hike this way to spread out in a circle in front of it. Walking around the edge of this bowl and climbing up some of the surrounding rocks give several different perspectives.

We spent at least an hour here, just taking it all in before the easy hike back down. The 4 years it took to return to Arches National Park was definitely worth the wait.

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Featured

Weekend Getaway in Tucker County West Virginia

Getting there

This trip fulfilled a long time dream… traveling with my best friend and her family! A journey filled with stops, good music, and constant conversation is part of the fun! Tucker county was a 5-hour drive from home so we picked a picnic spot just over halfway there for lunch and a little sightseeing. Ohiopyle State Park was the perfect fit, definitely a destination in itself. On this trip, we checked out the Tharp Knob Picnic Area and Cucumber Falls. Perhaps this will be a destination in itself in the future!

Ohiopyle State Park is full of recreational activities. We just picnicked and explored one of the many waterfalls while stretching our legs. Both Tharp Knob and Cucumber Falls were short stops right off of Ohiopyle Road. You could see the view or the waterfall in as little as 15 minutes or relax at either for the whole afternoon.

Where to Stay in Tucker County

For this trip, we rented a home through Airbnb. I have found that areas of the country that have ski resorts are great places to look for vacation rentals in the summer months. There are often a lot of places to choose from even just a month or two in advance. If you are looking for a last-minute summer trip, find a ski town and check out what Airbnb has to offer. We chose a home near Timberline Mountain ski resort in a private homeowners association. The location was secluded and came with the use of two ponds to kayak on (we brought our own kayaks) and access to private trails and trails in the Dolly Sods wilderness. The rental agency was easy to work with and if traveling to the area again, I would book directly with them at Mountain Top Realty.

Views around one of the private ponds in the Old Timberline community.
Road from rental home leading up to the Dolly Sods wilderness area.
View from the Valley View Trail bordering the Old Timberline community and the Dolly Sods Wilderness.

Activities

One of our favorite stops in Tucker County was Blackwater Falls State Park. You can read more about our visit here.

Blackwater Falls

Another great place to explore, if you like hiking, is the Dolly Sods Wilderness. We only saw a couple of miles of this area but it is definitely worth the trip by itself.

We were visiting in late June and were fortunate enough to coincide with Mountain Laural blooming at that elevation. The groves of Mountain Laurel we encountered were simply breathtaking.

Everyone’s favorite activity this trip was the float trip we took down the Cheat River. We booked with Blackwater Outdoor Adventures the day before. This tour company offers both whitewater and flatwater adventures on the Cheat River near Parsons, West Virginia.

Tucker County History

With so much outdoor adventure nearby, this was a great destination for our families. Beyond the outdoors, Tucker County offers up some interesting history as well. Once an impenetrable wilderness, the first non-natives to the area were attracted by the fur trade. Next, railroad and lumber interests combined to make the area more accessible and commercial. Tucker County soon housed mills, banks, tanneries, and hotels.

By 1930, Tucker County forests had been clear cut, stripped of easily mined coal, and had no more animals valued for their fur. People had wiped it clean of any value. The town of Davis was called a stump town, there were no trees, only stumps. An area high school, built on land riddled with mine shafts, collapsed into one. Fortunately, it was a school holiday and no one was hurt.

The rise and fall happened quickly. Neither the original industry nor the destruction was in evidence on our trip. What I liked best about the area’s history was experiencing the land that rose like a phoenix out of the literal ashes firsthand. Everywhere we went was beautiful. People had stripped it bare, felt the loss, and allowed it to regrow and be repurposed. It was in the end, beautiful.

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Featured

Blackwater Falls State Park

View of Blackwater Falls from the east side overlook.

Located in northeastern West Virginia, Blackwater Falls State Park is a worthy destination on its own. Combined with the beauty of the surrounding area and plenty of hiking in nearby Canaan Valley State Park, Dolly Sods Wilderness, and Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge, this is a must-see area of the country!

Here are our favorite stops in Blackwater Falls State Park.

Blackwater Falls

The park’s namesake waterfall did not disappoint. It was easy to get to and suitable for all ages. It did not require any hiking, but there were boardwalks with a lot of stairs to get to the best views. The park map states that the boardwalk is .25 miles long. The parking area for the falls, as well as a gift shop and concessions, can be found here.

Blackwater Falls is the tallest waterfall in West Virginia at a height of 57 feet. The Blackwater River is named for its chocolate brown color which comes from the tannins released from Hemlock and other trees in the area. I read that there is a lot of iron oxide in the surrounding shale which also contributes to the river’s color. Despite the brown hue of the river, the falls themselves were very white.

Flowing over 30 miles from where it originates in the Canaan Valley and dropping 1500 feet over the 8-mile distance of the Blackwater Canyon, the Blackwater River has carved a beautiful story into the hundreds of million-year-old Allegheny Mountains. After leaving the park it flows into the Cheat River, which is known for its tubing and whitewater trips, and then merges into the Monongahela before becoming the Ohio and eventually the Mississippi.

Blackwater falls in late June
The boardwalk to the falls consists of more than 200 steps down. Don’t forget you will need to return by climbing back up them!

Elakala Falls

Behind the Blackwater Resort within the park is a short trail to Elakala Falls. Elakala Falls is on Shays Run, shortly before it enters the Blackwater River. Though there are a series of falls on Shays Run, we only followed the path to the first, most accessible one. At 35 feet, it is considered the second most popular fall in the park.

Lindy Point Overlook

For our final stop of the day, we drove to the western end of the southern side of the park. Located here is the trailhead for Lindy Point Overlook. This was another short trail with a big payout. For just under half a mile we walked a path through thick mountain laurel and rhododendrons, some of them in bloom! Most of the path was packed dirt but in some softer areas, a boardwalk had been installed.

The walk was short enough that we carried a picnic super to the overlook. We took our time at the end soaking in the views, the company, and the endless green expanse in front of us.

The view from Lindy Point

Here, at our last stop in the park, amidst an impossible amount of green, it is difficult to think that these mountains and this gorge have ever looked any different. But what I have found in my travels is that a changing environment is the norm, not the exception. In the 1800s, Tucker County West Virginia was heavily logged and mined. By the early 1900s, the ridges were clear-cut to the point of constant burning and total erosion of the topsoil. This short-sighted use of the land was put to an end in 1920 with the creation of the Monongahela National Forest and Blackriver State Park was created within this boundary in 1937. Today, the area sees an increase in interest from nature-centered tourism and for this I am grateful. What man can destroy, man can also learn to protect.

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Kayaking Bear Lake

Check out this quiet lake with a navigable outlet in western New York!

How to get to Bear Lake

Bear Lake is the smallest of the 5 lakes located in Chautauqua County. It also has a shoreline that is bordered mostly by undeveloped wetlands. This beautiful, quiet setting is perfect for a kayak trip!

Sign marking the parking area for the boat launch

To get to Bear Lake, travel north of Stockton, New York on Rt 380. After about 1.5 miles, veer right onto Bear Lake Road as Rt 380 turns left. Bear Lake Road turns left after about 1 mile and the parking lot will be visible on the left as you begin to see the lake in front of you. Parking here accommodates 10 vehicles.

From the parking area, there is a very short paved walk to the launch. The new launch is accessible and very easy to use. After launching, we paddled by some lake front cottages along a narrow passage before the lake opened up before us.

Bear Lake is a kettle lake which means it formed at the end of the last ice age when a large block of ice melted over the area. According to the DEC website the average depth is only about 15 feet but the lake provides excellent habitat for a variety of fish.

What we enjoyed most about kayaking Bear Lake was exploring the undeveloped wetlands surrounding the lake. At around 140 acres with 2.5 miles of shoreline, it was the right size for kayak exploration. We could see it all without a lot of other boat traffic. Motor boats are permitted and many of the houses had pontoon boats docked there, but we saw only one motor boat with a water skier during our outing.

Heading toward the outlet

Our favorite part of the adventure was exploring the outlet. It was thick with water lilies and ended at a beaver dam. There were lot’s of birds to listen to and as it twisted and turned it made you wonder what was around each bend.

We spent about 3 hours on the water. The time passed quickly, it was one of those activities where one is completely present in the moment. Pure bliss.

All good things come to an end, but this is an adventure that I will seek out again for the peace and tranquility it offers.

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5 Favorite Hikes in Shenandoah National Park

The view from the Summit of Old Rag in Shenandoah National Park

Though there are few national parks on the east coast, Shenandoah National Park is a great one. I have visited several times and although I have not hiked all the trails (there are more than 500 miles of trails), I do have some favorites. Here is what we found to do!

No trip to Shenandoah National Park would be complete without a drive along Skyline Drive. For some visitors, that is all they do. We like to venture off the road and have found hikes we like for all skill levels.

Dark Hollow Falls

A favorite to hike with kids is the Dark Hollow Falls trail. It is short, shady, and offers a 70 foot waterfall. Though pretty steep, you arrive at the falls after only .7 miles.

Parking for the Dark Hollow Falls trail is between mileposts 50 and 51, here. After a hike, the Byrd Visitor Center just down Skyline Drive makes a great stop.

Dark Hollow Falls

For more information about this trail, visit the NPS site.

Stony Man

We took advantage of a free, range-led hike from the Skyland area of the park to the Stony Man viewpoint. These programs change often, check the NPS website to help you plan for your own trip. This 1.6-mile round trip hike takes you along a portion of the Appalachian Trail as well. You can read more about this hike here on the NPS site.

Rose River Falls

The hike to Rose River Falls was a 4-mile circuit making it longer than both the Dark Hollow and Stony Man hikes. The waterfall, though over 60 feet high, was obscured by trees and it was not easy to access its base. Still, we liked this hike because it followed the shallow Rose River for quite a while giving us ample opportunity to rest, cool off, and just reflect.

The 67-foot Rose River Falls

Parking for Rose River Falls can be found between milepost 49 and 50 near the Fisher’s Gap overlook. For a more detailed map, see the NPS page here.

Hawksbill Summit via Upper Hawksbill trail

Hawksbill Summit is the highest point in Shenandoah National Park at 4049 feet. There are 3 different ways to hike to the summit. Two of the trails start at the Hawksbill Gap parking lot between mileposts 45 and 46. The third hike begins from the Upper Hawksbill parking area past milepost 46. We chose this 3rd route because our kids were small at the time and this 2.1-mile hike was less steep or shorter than the other options. All 3 trails are clearly marked on the NPS site here.

The view from Hawksbill summit

Old Rag

For my favorite hike in Shenandoah National Park, we left the kids at home! The hike up Old Rag is a very strenuous 9.4 mile circuit, that sometimes requires scrambling over large boulders with all 4 limbs.

Trail access for Old Rag does not start from Skyline Drive, a detailed map and parking directions can be found at the NPS site here.

The view as we begin the rock scramble.
Climbing above the clouds!
The view from the summit of Old Rag

Where to Stay

We have stayed in 2 different areas when visiting Shenandoah National Park. I love in-park lodging because it gets you that much closer to the trails. For that reason, we chose the Skyland Resort on our first visit.

On our trip to Old Rag we stayed outside the park, near the trailhead. We found a great B&B online, Sharp Rock Vineyards.

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Great Spring Wildflower Destinations near WNY

April showers have brought May flowers. Grab a field guide, pick a trail, and get out there. These wildflowers are only here for a short time! Here are some of my favorite places for spring wildflower hikes.

Jamestown Community College, College Park

Marsh Marigold

Located within the city of Jamestown, Jamestown Community College Park (also referred to as the 100 Acre Lot) is a trove of diversity in the midst of an urban area. Trails can be accessed from JCC’s campus or from the parking area here along Curtis Ave Ext.

The park surrounds both sides of Moon Brook and is a great place to take kids to splash on a warm summer day. In spring however, the wildflowers steal the show.

Jack-in-the-pulpit

I walked the trails on the first weekend in May this year and saw more than 15 different wildflowers, many of which are pictured here.

Bird’s-Eye Speedwell

Bent Run Waterfall, Allegheny National Forest

Located outside of Warren Pennsylvania, this easy-to-miss stop is right across Route 59 from the Kinzua Dam. There is a small parking area here.

The bonus to this wildflower stop is the waterfall! Bent run cascades down the steep hillside creating a calm, picturesque scene as you walk along looking for wildflowers. It is less than a mile, though very steep, to where Bent run levels out at the top but even if you just parked at the bottom and traveled a few steps, you would get a nice look at the waterfall. Both wildflowers and water flow are best in spring!

Jamestown Audubon

Skunk Cabbage

I love this place so much! It is great ANY time of year but it is nice to see wildflowers blooming here each spring, just like the return of old friends.

The Jamestown Audubon has plenty of parking and trail use is free of charge. You can find out more information about the organization and its mission here.

Marsh Marigold

My favorite trail for spring wildflowers is the newer backwoods trail. It is marked in purple on map found here.

Long Point State Park

Trout Lily

Long Point State Park is located on the shore of Chautauqua Lake. Popular for its boat launch, the extensive trails are often overlooked. This is another great setting for early spring wildflowers! A trail map from the NYS parks website can be found here.

Bloodroot

Zoar Valley

Red Trillium

This is another area that I have really enjoyed visiting in all seasons. You can read about it here.

For this trip, we used the Valentine Flats access road and parking. In spring, the creek levels maybe too high and the water too cold to walk in the creek. The steep slopes along the walk down to the gorge protect many different wildflower species from deer making this another great spot to see a lot of biodiversity.

Golden Ragwort

One added bonus to this spot is the greatest number of Jack-in-the-Pulpits that I have ever seen! Watch your step and tread lightly to protect these interesting plants.

McConnell’s Mills State Park

Large-flowered or White Trillium

This spot is a little farther south so its flowers are blooming in April. It is a great day trip if you are getting impatient for spring in WNY. Located between Meadville and Pittsburgh PA, this park has a lot to offer including a covered bridge, waterfalls, and miles of hiking trails. I suggest parking at the Kildoo Picnic area. From there you can walk down to the covered bridge and hike the 3-mile trail that loops each side of Slippery Rock Creek.

Where are your favorite spots for spring wildflowers? Share your favorite spot below and don’t forget to subscribe so that you never miss an adventure!

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Best Family Activities in and around Holland Michigan!

So many beaches! Who needs the ocean when Lake Michigan provides so many beach destinations on the western side of the state of Michigan? We visited in July and there were plenty of activities both on and off the beach in Holland Michigan. Here is what we found to do!

Riley Beach

This tiny little public beach was just across the road from the house we rented through Airbnb. Though there was plenty of free parking here, I would not make this a destination. The benefit of Holland’s location along Lake Michigan means there are a lot of little spots like this. Find the one nearest you and enjoy a swim or catch a sunset!

Riley Trails

Another great spot along Riley Street is Riley Trails found here. You wouldn’t know from the photos but this area surrounds a closed and capped landfill! The county has turned an eyesore into a public asset. It was a beautiful place for a morning walk.

A map of the various hiking and biking trails can be found here. This area is primarily used for hiking, mountain biking, and cross-country skiing in the winter. There is no fee and plenty of parking and the trails are open from dawn to dusk.

Holland State Park Beach

This beach has ample parking, restrooms, concessions, and the best views of Big Red. All this convenience brings crowds but it was still a great spot for a picnic, a swim, and some games in the sand. More information can be found here.

Tunnel Park

Named for the concrete tunnel through the dune, Tunnel Park is a great beach for younger children for many reasons. First and foremost is the cool concrete tunnel through the dune. Not only will kids enjoy the echos, it also removes the need to drag beach supplies up and over the dune.

For those without small children or anyone desiring more of a workout, there is also a stairway over the dune that leads to a beautiful elevated view of Lake Michigan and then continues to the beach below.

Besides the beach, Tunnel Park is also great for kids because of the large grassy area with a playground, picnic tables, shady trees, and restrooms. There is a parking fee here in the summer but it is well worth it for a day spent at this park. All this can be found here.

Beach view at Tunnel Park

Mt Pisgah

Mount Pisgah was a fun, adults-only early morning walk, not because it wouldn’t be great for kids too, but because sometimes it’s just nice to enjoy a bit of quiet before starting the day. There was ample parking just past the trailhead here.

We arrived by 7:30am and saw only a few other visitors who were using the boardwalk for exercise. The 200+ steps take visitors up 157 feet to sweeping views of Lake Macatawa, Lake Michigan, and the Big Red Lighthouse.

The distance to the overlook is only .4 miles. From this point though, one can continue on and make a lollipop loop through the wooded dune for a round trip of just under 2 miles. Alltrails ranks this hike as easy.

Fresh donuts from the Ottawa Beach General Store

After working up an appetite the Ottawa Beach General Store had fresh donuts and coffee. This is also a great spot to bring kids for ice cream later in the day!

Ludington State Park

A walk up the beach at Ludington Beach State Park

This was one of the most beautiful parks I have ever visited. We spent a whole day here and I hope to return someday to explore even more. You can read more about our day at Ludington Beach State Park here.

Dutch Village

This cute little park exceeded our expectations. To be honest, we were not sure what to expect. We were drawn to the Hollandness of this attraction and the reduced admission price. We figured it would be worth it just to walk around and it definitely was.

There was definitely a kitschy feel to the place. But that was part of the charm! We tried on wooden shoes, learned Dutch dances, tasted cheeses, and raced in tandem skis with wooden shoes attached to them!

We made the assumption that our kids were too old for kiddie rides but I guess you never really outgrow a carousel or ferris wheel.

There was also a nice petting area with goats, sheep, chickens, pigs, rabbits, and a llama! The kids hung with the kids! We sampled fudge and listened to the large 1800’s street organ. You can visit their website here to plan your own Dutch Village adventure!

Saugatuck Dunes State Park

The walk to this secluded beach from the parking and picnic area is nearly a mile but once you are there you will be treated to two and a half miles of beautiful Lake Michigan shoreline. This scenic area can be found 10 miles south of Holland. Turn onto 138th Street and follow it to State Park Drive.

Pack a backpack with your favorite beach gear and spend the day swimming and building sandcastles. If walking in nature is more your style, this park has over 1000 acres including coastal dunes over 200 feet high, and covered with a mix of trees and grass. Like other Michigan State Parks, a $12 annual recreation passport is required for Michigan residents. Out of state visitors can pay a $9 single-day fee.

The park contains over 14 miles of hiking trails.
Sone of the dunes in Saugatuck State Park are 200 feet high.

Windmill Gardens

Another essential stop for embracing Holland’s Dutch roots and history is Windmill Gardens. This beautiful park bordering downtown Holand is a great place to relax or pick up some Holland, MI souvenirs.

The main attraction of the Gardens is the Windmill itself. Named DeZwann or The Swan, this 250-year-old working windmill arrived in Holland Michigan from the Netherlands in 1964. It is both the last windmill to leave the Netherlands and the only working Dutch windmill in the United States.

What I thought was especially powerful about this windmill was that an original blade was laying beside it, riddled with bullet holes from when it served as a lookout tower during World War II.

Before leaving, we wandered through the shops and picked out our own little pair of wooden shoes which they engraved for us.

Laketown Beach

An elaborate walkway over the dunes, at times covered in sand, takes you to a quiet beach nestled amid private property. Parking along a dead-end road can be found here. Though the steep climb and number of stairs might make this a poor choice for a full day at the beach with all the required gear, the views from the top make this a great spot for photos or quiet contemplation.

There are 350 stairs going up and over the fragile dunes. The stairs not only make the trek easier, they protect the dunes.

There are no restroom facilities at this location but the limited parking is free. What I liked best about this out of the way park was the peace and solitude.

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Ludington State Park, Michigan

Lake Michigan shoreline

This park was gorgeous! Immaculate sandy beaches, naturally scenic dunes, a classic lighthouse, and nearly unlimited recreational activities….this park had it all. Wedged between Lake Michigan and the 5000-acre Hamlin Lake, this park is Michigan’s best. We spent a day here on a summer trip to Michigan’s western coast but this is an area we will definitely return to. Here is what we found to do!

The Beach

The main entrance to the park can be found at the end of Michigan Rt 116. From there we veered left and headed straight to beach parking. Though there were plenty of spaces before 11:00 am, I imagine it fills up on a summer weekend.

The Lake Michigan beach area had a bathhouse complete with restrooms, concessions, and interpretive exhibits. The best part of this beach though was the pristine shoreline stretching 7 miles up the coast of Lake Michigan. It was one of the most beautiful beach walks I have ever taken.

The kids spent the afternoon swimming in the lake and we all enjoyed a picnic lunch in the sand. Parking was close enough to the beach area that we could leave coolers and extra tools in the van and just carry our beach chairs to the sand.

Hiking

As it began to cool down in the late afternoon, we decided to stretch our legs with a hike. Ludington State Park has over 20 miles of trails through forests and wetlands, over dunes, along beaches, and across boardwalks. We wanted to see Big Sable Point Lighthouse but didn’t want grumpy hikers, so we opted for the ROAD to the lighthouse, not the TRAIL to the lighthouse.

The road to Big Sable Point Lighthouse, accessible only by bike or on foot.

The packed gravel and sand-covered road to the lighthouse starts at the far left end of the Pines Campground. There is also a more strenuous trail over dunes with great views of Lake Michigan that begins in the Beechwood Campground area. The road is 1.8 miles one-way, the trail is slightly longer. You can check out a map of trails here before choosing the best one for you.

The road to the lighthouse passes several interdunal ponds. These areas were active with wildlife such as the Bald Eagle we spotted below.

It took us about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace to reach the lighthouse.

Almost to the lighthouse.

Big Sable Point Lighthouse

Built in 1867 and given its classic black and white paint in 1900, this lighthouse shown its light to mariners as far as 19 miles out. Restored in 1987 after a preservation association was formed, today it is a lovely building in a lovely setting.

At 112 feet, the Big Sable Point Lighthouse is one of the tallest in Michigan. Throughout the year, tours can be purchased and you can climb the 130 steps to the top or just shop the gift shop in the original keepers quarters.

Beach view from the lighthouse.

History

After visiting the park, I was curious about the history of Hamlin Lake. Not surprisingly, I learned that the area was originally purchased for logging interests, and the dam creating Lake Hamlin was originally erected to create a holding pond for logs. The area that is now Ludington State Park was once the short-lived village of Hamlin. In the mid-1800s, the area contained mills, boardinghouses, a schoolhouse, and many homes. In the late 1800s, after two dam breaks that washed many homes into Lake Michigan and the decline of the lumber industry, the village of Hamlin all but disappeared. The few buildings that remained were removed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s to make way for the new state park.

Like my recent visit to Hume Lake in Kings Canyon National Park, I was struck by how nature not only reclaimed an area that humans tried to dominate but how humans had also been altered in the exchange. When both of these areas were stripped of their trees and nature fought back, people changed their relationship with the land. They found recreation and preservation worthwhile and dominance and destruction were given up. May we continue to connect to the land and not dominate and destroy it.

So many reasons to return!

In addition to the activities we enjoyed during our day trip here, this park has so much more to offer. From biking trails and bike rentals to a whole separate beach area on Hamlin Lake and from fishing along the Big Sable River to kayaking and canoeing trails, this is a park that I hope to return to someday!

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Kings Canyon National Park

After a couple of days in Sequoia National Park (you can check out that post here), we drove north on the General’s Highway to check out Kings Canyon National Park. I wasn’t even sure if the road connecting the two parks would be open in April, so this drive was a bonus! In preparing for this trip, I read that snow can occur at any moment and can close portions of the road. Even though there was still plenty of snow at higher elevations, the road was clear and the temperatures were in the mid 70’s! Here is what we found to do!

The distance between the General Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park and Grant Grove and the General Grant Tree in Kings Canyon National Park is only 30 miles but the drive took over an hour. It was very scenic with pull offs for beautiful vistas and tall tree groves. If traveling between the two parks, make sure to allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy the journey.

Grant Grove

Grant Grove is a must see in Kings Canyon National Park. It is also a great stop for food, souvenirs, restrooms. After checking out the aforementioned comfort stops in Grant Grove, the General Grant tree is the next stop to make. You can walk the roughly one mile trail from Grant village or drive to the Grant Grove lot. We chose to walk in order to stretch our legs. This might also be a better choice when the park is busier in the summer and parking is harder to find.

The General Grant Sequoia Tree. This is the 2nd largest tree in the world.

I really enjoyed Grant Grove. It was less crowded than the giant sequoia grove surrounding the General Sherman Tree. The General Grant tree is listed as the 2nd largest tree in the world by volume, though this is based only on the trunk. If the branches were considered, another tree found in Sequoia National Park would bump General Grant to third.

Also on this trail is the Fallen Monarch. It is an enormous sequoia that can be walked through and nearby interpretive signs show people have been doing this for a long time!

The Fallen Monarch

We headed further north until we reached the entrance to Cedar Grove. Being only April, this road wasn’t open yet but we were surprised to find the road to Hume Lake was and we decided to follow it. This was a great idea! After driving a short distance there were some pull-offs that lead to spectacular views of the canyon and the road to Cedar Grove.

The road to Cedar Grove from above.
The view into Kings Canyon

Hume Lake

After great views into the canyon, the road descended in elevation before arriving at Hume Lake. This lake was formed when a dam was built by logging interests in the area in the early 1900’s. Photos near the lake show what it looked like choked with logs. When logging ended and the surrounding area was reclaimed by nature, the lake became a destination for recreation. Today it is a fantastic place to enjoy kayaking, standup paddle boarding, or just some quiet reflection in nature.

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Sequoia National Park-what to expect when visiting in April

Entrance sign at the southern entrance to Sequoia National Park

A typical spring break destination is not a trip into the mountains but then I have never been a typical traveler. I met up with my brother in California in April and we decided to check out Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. When planning for the trip, I discovered the need to be prepared for a large variation in weather conditions. I was also a bit unclear about what would be open. So after making the trip, I hope to pass on some information to make your travels to the Sierra Nevada range in April a bit smoother. Here is what we found to do!

California Poppy, the state flower, can be seen blooming throughout the state in early April.

The foothills-Three Rivers, CA

The foothills were awash in spring colors. Flowers were blooming everywhere and day time temps were in the mid 70’s or higher. We rented a cabin in Three Rivers through Airbnb. This was a nice gateway community with a few restaurants just a few miles south of the entrance to Sequoia National Park. The Kaweah river flowed past the back of the cabin and provided a very calming setting for our stay.

What I needed, What I didn’t

I overpacked for this trip. Even after checking the weather for all locations I was visiting, I wasn’t sure exactly what I would encounter. Again, I was prepared for a wide range of weather and any trip in another year might see very different conditions. Here is what I found useful on this trip:

  • Comfortable hiking pants
  • T-shirt
  • Fleece jacket
  • Ball cap
  • Hiking Boots
  • Hiking Poles
  • Backpack
  • Water bottle
  • Sun glasses

What I did not use on this trip included:

  • Snow boots
  • Gloves
  • Winter hat
  • Snow pants
  • Winter coat
  • Crampons
  • Tire chains

I had all of these items on hand except the tire chains. If the weather turns snowy, which can happen in April or even May, tire chains may be required and are available to rent from local businesses outside park entrances. I was glad that this trip didn’t require them.

View of the Kaweah River and the Sierra Nevada mountains after entering the park.

What was open, What was not

The General’s highway starting from the Foothills Visitor Center and continuing through Kings Canyon National Park was open along its entire length. Many of the secondary roads were still closed for winter. The following areas of Sequoia National Park were not available in early April:

  • Crystal Cave
  • Moro Rock
  • Tunnel Log
  • Crescent Meadow

Best Stops in Sequoia National Park

Shortly after entering the park, is Tunnel Rock. Viewable from the road, there is also a pull off so you can grab a photo of this iconic spot.

Tunnel Rock

We parked in the Giant Forest Museum area. Here we saw the Sentinel, walked under a giant sequoia lying across the bear hill trail, and strolled around Round Meadow on the interpretive Big Trees Trail.

Fallen sequoia across the Bear Hill Trail
Stops along the Big Trails Trail

My favorite hike of the day combined the half mile Big Trees trail with the .7 mile out and back Sunset Rock trail for a little over 2 miles of walking from the parking lot. I didn’t see this trail on the park map nor had I read about it in any of my pre-trip planning. It was just a trail we encountered and choose to follow before ending our first day in the park. Sometimes these unplanned moments are the best.

What not to miss-General Sherman

Our second day in the park required an early start. I wanted to see General Sherman, the world’s largest Sequoia tree, but not compete with crowds. We parked in the main lot here. The walk to the tree was just under 1-mile in length but I would recommend strolling along the Congress trail as well to take in different views of the General Sherman tree, walk through a fallen sequoia, and see other majestic sequoias along the way.

The General Sherman Tree is not the tallest and it is not the widest, but its total volume makes it the largest tree on earth. It is also not the oldest, at roughly 2200 years old, it is 1000 years younger than the oldest trees. Standing in front of it though, with all its burn scars on display, one feels its wisdom. This tree has persevered and that in itself has been enough. It serves as a powerful reminder to all who view it that you don’t need to be all the “est’s”, but in persevering, one can be enough.

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Top 5 hiking day trips from Chautauqua County, NY

The weather is getting warmer in WNY, spring break is coming, and many people are not going to be traveling this year. Friends and family have been asking me, what are some fun day trips you would recommend and where should I take my kids hiking that isn’t too far from home? Here are my 5 favorite easy local hikes!

One of two interpretive viewing platforms at Erlandson Overview Park.

5-Erlandson Overview Park

This small park in Frewsburg, NY is a nice place to relax in southern Chautauqua County. There is a gazebo with picnic tables, a 1-mile hiking trail, and a large grassy expanse with great views. Directions can be found here.

We visit this park regularly whenever we want a quick walk in nature that is close to home or a park-like setting without the crowds of a city playground.

The trail winds through the woods and pops out once onto another grassy opening with a distant view of Chautauqua Lake. The signs and blue blazes are very easy to follow. We have visited in all seasons, even enjoying a warm Christmas Eve hike once before the rush of the Holiday.


Water flowing in the Chautauqua Gorge

4-Chautauqua Gorge

Close to my first home, this hidden gem isn’t often visited by non-locals. I have many fond memories of exploring the Chautauqua Gorge as a child and enjoy taking my own kids here. The Chautauqua Gorge State Forest is located at the end of Hannum Road in Mayville. It consists of a day-use area and some primitive campsites but the best part is hiking down in and exploring and splashing in Chautauqua Creek.

To get down to the water, drive to the very end of the Hannum Road, continuing even after it turns into dirt. At the very end is a small parking area, take the path to the left. The descent into the gorge is steep and the trail can be muddy or washed out in places. Keep an eye on young children as there are also occasional narrow sections with steep drop-offs.

Once at the bottom, there is a deeper section of creek at the end of the trail where people are often seen swimming. We prefer to walk upstream a bit. There are some really neat sections where the sheer shale walls tower above you.

Summer is the best time to visit because much of this hike takes place in the water but if visiting during other times of the year, a portion of the Westside Overland Trail can also be accessed from the State Forest.


Luensman Overview Park on a foggy morning

3-Luensman Overview Park

The northern most hike on the list is Luensman Overview Park in Portland, NY. Like it’s sister park, Erlandson above, there are a couple viewing platforms with fantastic views of Lake Erie, a gazebo, picnic tables, and a 1-mile hiking trail through the forested regions of the park.

View of Lake Erie

The length of this hike is great for little legs. The trail is well marked and the rolling terrain is interesting without being too challenging.

Three generations out on the trail.

Another bonus to this park is its proximity to Lake Erie. After hiking here, a great day trip might include a stop at Lake Erie State Park in Brocton NY where one can look for sea glass at its small beach, hit a playground, or just sit and watch the sunset.


The view that awaits at the end of the Rim Rock trail.

2-Rim Rock Trail from Kinzua Beach

This hike is not in Chautauqua County, it is not even in New York State, but the drive here is only 45 minutes from Jamestown making this beautiful area the perfect day trip.

There are two ways to get to the Rim Rock overlook. The first is to drive there. There is a large parking and picnic area located here. This post, however, is about hiking so I recommend starting at Kinzua Beach and walking the 1-mile trail to the overlook. If you are hiking with kids, they will have stretched their legs and will be tired enough that they won’t run dangerously around the big rock city at the top. Plus, the view is more rewarding when you work for it. Finally, the second half of the hike will be downhill with the promise of a splash in the Allegheny Reservoir on a warm day.

The trail gradually climbs up in elevation and doesn’t feel steep until the very end. At this point though, there are a lot of interesting rocks to check out or sit upon if you need to rest. The last section of the trail winds through and includes a staircase among these big rocks.

Once at the top, there are nice views of the Allegheny Reservoir. There are picnic tables and vault toilets near the parking lot as well. After resting at the top, we usually spend some time exploring and climbing on rocks before heading back down.

The view from the top!

Back at the bottom, Kinzua Beach offers a place to dip your toes or even swim on a hot day. The beach surface is more of a pea gravel than sand and there are no lifeguards but the water is shallow and it is a quiet place to reflect on your efforts and the beauty of the area.


Early autumn view from the trail at the Jamestown Audubon Center

1-Jamestown Audubon Nature Center

This one has been my absolute favorite local hike for years and for so many different reasons! It is very close to my house, so I can go here after work on a sunny day and relieve some stress. I have taken my kids here to walk since they were very small. The big pond loop is 2 miles long and very flat, it is perfect for kids. Even when my kids were very little, the trails were easily navigated with a jogging stroller. An Audubon visit is great in any season. In the winter, it is a great place to cross-country ski or snowshoe. Not only do we use the trails, but there are also great events and nature programming throughout the year. I just can’t say enough about this one.

Spring brings new life to the woods. Besides hiking, one of our favorite activities is to attend a bird banding demonstration. You can check the website here for dates and times.

A Yellow Warbler is about to be released after being banded.

Another attraction to the Audubon for me is the diverse habitats that a loop around big pond traverses. From wet lands, to old plantation forests, through thick Hemlock canopies, and then open meadows this trail offers a lot to see.

Boardwalk over wetlands
Towering tree canopies.

In winter, it can be difficult to find ways to get out of the house and into nature. I think the Audubon is especially beautiful in snow. So even if we have a false spring and the snow returns, a quick trip to see the beauty in the snow is good for the spirit.

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Five things to do in Grand Canyon National Park

No cross country adventure is complete without a stop at Grand Canyon National Park. Here is what we found to do!

5-Walk the Rim trail near Mather Point

As soon as you arrive in Grand Canyon National Park you will want to get to the rim! Easily accessible from the Grand Canyon Visitor Center parking lot or any of the in-park lodges is the Rim Trail. The vastness of this geologic wonder just can not be grasped until you view it for the first time in person.

4-Spend the night

There are a variety of lodging options to choose from inside Grand Canyon National Park. Since the drive from neighboring Flagstaff is an hour and a half, staying in the park is a great way to maximize your time here. There are two distinct sections at the south rim. The Visitor Center and Market Plaza area include Yavapai Lodge which is operated by Delaware North. Another concessionaire, Xanterra Parks and Resorts, operates Bright Angel Lodge, El Tovar Hotel, Kachina Lodge, Thunderbird Lodge, and Maswik Lodge in the Historic District. We chose to stay at Yavapai Lodge East for its family-friendly accommodations and economy.

3-Drive out to Desert View Watchtower

Located at the easternmost entrance to Grand Canyon National Park, the Desert View Watchtower is 25 miles from Canyon Village. After a day of hiking and biking, this drive is a relaxing finish.

The Watchtower was built in 1932 as a way to improve depression-stunted tourism in the area of the Grand Canyon. It was designed by architect Mary Colter whose Native American inspired structures are found throughout the Southwest.

The view across the canyon from the Desert View Watchtower showing the Colorado River and a storm over the north rim.

2-Sunset at Grandview Point

Watching the setting sun illuminate the rocky layers of the canyon is a sight not to be missed. We settled on Grandview Point for the place to watch the show. This area was less crowded than the bustling Mather Point. It also provided the opportunity to walk the Grandview Trail a bit to find further seclusion. After the sunset, it was only a 12-mile long drive back to Canyon Village on Desert View Drive.

Sunset from Grandview Point and a storm over the north rim.

1-Bright Angel Bicycles Hermit Road Tour

Our favorite family activity was the not-to-be-missed Bright Angel Bicycles Hermit Road Tour! Starting from the Bright Angel Bicycles cafe and shop right next to the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, this tour provided bicycles, helmets, shuttle service to and from starting and stopping points, and a very knowledgeable guide. If you are undecided about what tour to take while visiting the Grand Canyon and your family likes biking, this is definitely the tour to take.

Rental bikes lined up outside Bright Angel Bicycles

The Hermit Road Tour begins at Hopi Point and continues along 5.5 easy peddling miles to Hermit’s Rest. Along the way, stops are made at many of the view points and the interpretive guide is with you the whole time to share their extensive knowledge of the park’s history, geology, flora, and fauna.

It took about 3 hours from start to finish, but we felt we were able to see so much more on bikes than we could have by walking or even driving. Some of the roads were closed to private motor vehicles so other than the occasional park shuttle, we had the road to ourselves. This tour is great for all ages. Trailers or tagalong bikes are available for those who are too young to peddle on their own.

Hermit’s Rest, the last stop on the bike tour.

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Kinzua Bridge State Park and Sky Walk

Imagine a tornado so powerful that it picks up steel towers, with a combined weight of over 6 million pounds, right off of their concrete supports. This tornado then causes the supports to buckle under their own weight and crash into the ground. That is what happened to the Kinzua Viaduct in 2003. A century-old bridge was destroyed in 30 seconds.

View of the Sky Walk from the trail below.

The Kinzua bridge viaduct was completed in 1882 and at the time was the highest railroad viaduct in the world. As trains got heavier after 1900, it became necessary to rebuild the entire iron structure out of steel. As freight traffic declined, its use was discontinued. In 1963 it was repurposed as a state park. Through the the 1980’s and 1990’s it carried excursion trains through the Allegheny National Forest. In 2002, it was determined that the rusted steel was in dire need of repair, the bridge was closed to all traffic, and restoration began soon after. In July of 2003, a tornado with wind speeds reaching 112 mph, struck the side of the Kinzua Viaduct. Eleven towers were torn from their concrete bases and thrown to the valley floor. Throughout all this, the structure and the vision of its creators prevails. Today, park visitors can walk on the tracks, view the beauty of the valley below, and glimpse the power of both nature and the human spirit. Though changed in nature, the Kinzua Viaduct is reborn.

I have visited this park several times, the first of which was on a scenic train trip across the bridge when it was still intact. Today, this is a wonderfully scenic stop in Northwestern PA. Follow along to see what we found to do!

Viaduct in Early Fall

My first visit after the Sky Walk opened was with 4 small kids in September of 2015. We didn’t hike the trail all the way down to Kinzua Creek, but we did enjoy the Sky Walk with its glass floor observation deck!

Viaduct in Summer

When the kids were a little older, we returned as a family to check out the newly opened visitor’s center and hike the roughly 1-mile roundtrip trail into the gorge. The visitor’s center had fantastic exhibits on the history of the bridge, the tornado that tore it down, and all the engineering feats in between! It also had restrooms and a gift shop. Outside near the parking area, a food truck is often parked, and picnic tables are plentiful.

We enjoyed the view from the top then started the descent into the valley.
Views of the Sky Walk from the trail to the Kinzua valley.

Viaduct during peak Fall color

For my most recent visit, a friend and I tried to hit peak fall foliage. We visited the park on October 3rd. Considering my day job requires me to be an adventure travel weekend warrior, we may have missed peak by a couple of days. But is was still gorgeous!

We arrived before the crowds on a beautiful fall day and watched the fog lift over the valley.
The view from 225 feet up!

The first weekend of October is probably the busiest of the year. Getting an early start helped with avoiding the crowds. It is also a pretty steep descent, so make sure that you are wearing appropriate shoes if you continue from the observation platform all the way to the creek.

Once back up at the top, the sun had come out in full force. We walked to the end of the Sky Walk one last time to see the foliage in full sun. Then headed out as the park began to fill up.

The view as we walked back up the trail.

Directions to the parking area and visitor center can be found here.

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Wandering and Wondering around Devil’s Tower National Monument

When taking a road trip across the United States, there are so many choices to make. I usually start by picking a few must-see places, then finding a driving route with the best balance between scenery and efficiency. Once that is done, I find reservations for lodging along the way. Then finally I fill the driving days with interesting stops along the way! Devil’s Tower National Monument did not make the cut on a 2015 adventure and I regretted it, so when I was planning another cross country trek last year, I was sure to include it. Here is what we found to do!

Lodging

We planned to stop at Devil’s Tower Monument on the return trip from Yellowstone National Park. I usually start my research of an area 6 months to a year in advance and I was thrilled to see that Devil’s Tower had one privately owned in-park lodge. I like booking in-park lodging whenever I can because I feel it maximizes our time in a place. This is a luxury that I am willing to pay for, it is sometimes difficult to get a family of 5 ready and out the door! Being in the park gets us that much closer to our starting point for the day.

Devil’s Tower at sunset from the road to Devil’s Tower Lodge.

Devil’s Tower Lodge could not have been a better choice! I can not say enough positive things about our stay. The lodge is located at the rear of the park, on adjacent, private land. You enter the park and follow the directions from the lodge to arrive. There are a few rooms to let in the main building but there is also a stand-alone cottage. We chose the cottage, named the Weissner Cottage, after that first person to climb the tower. It had two bedrooms, a bath, a large kitchen/dining/living area, and its own deck. There was plenty of room for a family of 5.

View from our private deck at Devil’s Tower Lodge

In addition to a room for the night, the Devil’s Tower Lodge offered a hot breakfast and an optional family style dinner. I would recommend that you make a reservation and get there in time for dinner. We had two wonderful home cooked meals, a refreshing change for a family whose cooler was getting down to peanut butter and jelly! The meals were served family style and the large dining table served all the lodge’s guests for the night. It was nice to chat with other travelers from all over the country. In addition to the common dining area in the main building, there was also a living room with books and games and two pianos. It was a nice place to sit and relax both before and after a meal.

View of the tower as we left the lodge and headed to the visitor center.

History

Devil’s Tower was the very first United States National Monument, established by Theodore Roosevelt in 1906, but this area was special to a lot of people long before then. In researching some of the oral histories of the monument, I was struck by the presence of a large bear in most of the Native American stories I read. In several of the stories, the Great Spirit played a role in raising the rocks to protect people from a great bear. I found 6 different tribes listed as having geographical, historical, or cultural ties to the tower. Today, the tower is still visited for sacred rituals, the most common of which are prayer offerings. Throughout the monument, there are colorful clothes scattered about. These religious artifacts are sacred and should not be touched.

But the tower’s history starts long before any people walked the earth. Along the trail, interpretive signs talk about the tower’s formation and though much is agreed upon, some aspects of its creation are still uncertain. It is known that it is made of a rare form of igneous rock and that it is the largest example of columnar jointing in the world. It is also agreed upon that the igneous rock occurred as a volcanic intrusion through layers of surrounding sedimentary rock, put just how that process took shape is uncertain.

It was fascinating to wander around such an unusual and important natural artifact.

The sun rises behind the Devil’s Tower

Hiking

There are a handful of trails in the park which provide great views of the tower and even take you through a prairie dog town, but the most popular is the paved, 1.3 mile Tower Trail.

Prairie dogs call the Devil’s Tower area home.

We arrived at the visitor center early, before it opened, so we had the trail mostly to ourselves. Before heading around the monument though, the boys were drawn to the jumbled rocks at its base. I didn’t realize that you can scramble up these rocks, and it was a very nice surprise. I followed the boys as they climbed up all the way to the base where only permitted climbers can continue on.

Look carefully in the above photo for two boys scrambling up the rocks!

After ambling back down, we rejoined our teenage daughter who opted out of the scramble and started the loop around the monument’s base. Each side of the monument offered a different perspective of the giant monolith. We watched as the sun rose behind it and finished our walk before it reached its highest point in the sky, welcoming in the midday tourists.

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Indiana Dunes National Park

The view from the top of Mount Baldy in 2011.

One of American’s newest National Parks, Indiana Dunes National Park was established by an act of congress in 2019. This made it the 61st national park in the country, but Indiana Dunes had been managed by the park service since 1966 when it was dedicated as a National Lakeshore.

We have visited this park twice, once in 2011 and again in 2020 after it had gained National Park status. Here is what we found to do!

Both trips were just an afternoon spent at the beach as a stop on the way to traveling somewhere else. I really try to make the most of a road trip by taking advantage of the journey en route to the final destination. In 2011, the trail to the top of Mount Baldy, the park’s largest dune was still open to the public, so of course, we had to climb it! Today, the summit can only be reached on a ranger-led tour, stop at a visitor center in the park for more information.

On our more recent visit in the summer of 2020, we headed straight for West Beach. We had stopped here on our previous visit and thought it would make a great place for a picnic supper and walk to stretch our legs.

After dinner in the picnic area near the parking lot, we headed to the beach via the Dune Succession Trail. Information about the trail, as well as a map, can be found on the National Park Service website here.

Stairs at the start of the Dune Succession trail.

Some of the difficulty in climbing over a sand dune is mitigated by wooden boardwalks and stairs. The entire loop was just about a mile in length with the most difficult climb being right at the start.

Looking back at the trail we just climbed.

At the crest of the dune, the stairs give way to sand and views of lake Michigan appear.

The boardwalk then returns to ferry you to the shore of Lake Michigan. Along the trail there is evidence of all stages of dune development in reverse. Part of the trail walks through a forest of Jack Pine. Closer to the water, there are Oak and Cottonwood trees becoming mixed with grasses and then finally the sandy shores.

After admiring Lake Michigan for a bit, we walked back through the park beach house to a paved path back to the parking lot, enjoying more great views along the way.

With beaches, biking trails, miles of hiking, and so much more, Indiana Dunes could be a whole vacation destination. Just as great though, is seeing this spot as a stop for a few hours of playtime when passing through northern Indiana. I encourage you not to overlook it. It is a great stop to have a picnic meal, take a quick dip in the lake to cool off, or watch the sunset before getting a hotel for the night.

Life is a journey, after all, not just a destination. Find joy whenever you can.

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Tupper Lake Triad hiking challenge…in winter!

For a change of scenery, we headed to the Adirondacks in February. I had three goals, to visit the Wild Center in Tupper Lake, to relax in a cozy cabin, and to hike the Tupper Lake Triad! We used Airbnb to find a cabin for 3 nights and booked advanced tickets to the Wild Center then packed up all our warmest gear and set out! This post will take you on my quest to complete the three summit hiking challenge centered near Tupper Lake.

Mount Arab

The Tupper Lake triad can be hiked in summer or winter and consists of three small peaks. This will not cross any 46ers off your list, but they are also not to be taken lightly! The first hike we attempted as a family was Mount Arab. It was the shortest of the 3 hikes at 2.0 miles round trip, but also the steepest with an elevation gain of 764 feet over 1 mile.

Mount Arab fire tower trailhead

The trailhead was easy to find and even with recent snowfall, the roads were clear. The parking area can be found here.

Depending on which family member you ask, the hike up was either grueling, miserable, challenging, or fun. The trail was well packed with evidence of hikers, snowshoers, dogs, and even skiers preceding us. We had a couple of pairs of crampons, but one adult and two kids just hiked in winter boots. As we neared the top, the vegetation became icy. It was a cold day, in the upper teens.

At the top, three of us climbed the fire tower. Though the view was obscured by the incoming snow, the feel of the cold and sting of the wind made it an invigorating experience.

The descent was much quicker. The steepness of this trail occasionally allowed (required?) some sliding down on our bottoms. It was nice to hear the squeals of happy children and not their whines of discontent.

I hung back to enjoy a moment of quiet and my family beat me back to the van. I returned to see my youngest lying in the snow, tired but clearly pleased by his accomplishment.

Goodman Mountain

Day 2-The adults set out for an early morning solo hike while the kids did what teens and preteens like best, lounge. In our house, this means watching TikToks and playing Minecraft. Sigh. But it is vacation, right? Everyone should get a chance to relax.

The Goodman Mountain hike was the longest in the challenge at 3.2 miles. It was much gentler in its ascent though, rising 581 feet over that first mile and a half.

The trailhead is located right off of route 30, just south of Tupper Lake. The walk started very gradually. It was nice to breathe the fresh air and hear the quiet. My husband and I walked along, mostly in silence. Compared to the previous day’s moderately strenuous climb to Mount Arab, this was a much more leisurely hike.

Once at the top, we sat on a rare, exposed rock and took in the view. The snow was starting to fall again. It was lovely.

Coney Mountain

Day 3 and our final hike in the challenge. This time the kids came with us! But did everyone make it to the top?

The Coney Mountain trail (trailhead parking found here) was 2.2 miles roundtrip with an elevation gain of 548 feet. The parking area was at the top of a slight incline that had not been plowed. Our minivan made it up on the second try, but on very snowy days, it might be a better option to park on the side of Route 30. The difficulty of this hike was compounded by the 6 new inches of snow that had fallen the night before. We were not the first to break trail that morning, we met a pair of snowshoers coming down, but this hike did require a bit more energy with each step.

We set out in two groups, as child 2 had fought with child 3 and child 3 was refusing to hike with child 2. We eventually passed child 2 on the trail. He opted out of the summit in favor of snowman building.

The scene preceding our venturing up the trail in two separate groups.
The start of something bigger.

Though not as long as the trail to Goodman Mountain and not as steep as Mount Arab, this was a pretty tiring hike. I passed child number 1 about two tenths of a mile from the summit. She was resting and drawing hearts and names in the snow. I did not think I would see her at the top.

My husband was the first to the summit. The snow had turned to rain, not at all what I was expecting after two days of brutal cold, and the view was mostly obscured by the fog. He turned back to catch up with the older kids while my youngest and I sat for a minute and enjoyed our accomplishment.

The first to the summit!
Sending some encouragement down to his siblings.

Despite the youngest’s encouragement for his siblings to join us. We sat alone at the top for a few minutes. I hope that someday he will remember this conversation and that my words will help him to overcome future struggles. At the beginning of this hike, he did not want to go. At all. He was mad at his brother, the snow was deep, but he put one foot in front of the other and started climbing. When we were tired, we rested, but we didn’t stop. He didn’t give up. The feeling of accomplishment at the top was his reward. Life is full of ups and downs. I want him to remember that and to push through difficulty until the next summit is reached.

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Salmon River Falls

On a trip up to the Adirondacks to do some winter hiking, we decided to break up the drive by stopping to see Salmon River Falls near Pulaski, NY in Oswego county. It took us a bit longer than planned to arrive, as a section of bridge was out on Route 22 and we had to retrace our path to approach it after the bridge, but otherwise, it was easy to find. If you are traveling this way in the winter or spring of 2021, take Hog Back Road to 22 North to avoid the closure. The parking area is located along Falls Road here.

The trail to the first viewing platform was only a quarter of a mile long. There were several interpretive signs, like the one above, to read on the way to view the 110-foot waterfall.

View of Salmon River Falls from the first viewing platform. This is a popular spot for ice climbing. If you look close, you can see a potential climber in orange.

Not knowing much about the area we were visiting, I did a quick internet search for the history of Salmon River Falls. As one would expect, the name is in reference to the large numbers of Atlantic salmon that would travel from the St. Lawerence River to Lake Ontario and then up the Salmon River where they would meet their terminus at the waterfall. This was a very important fishing spot for the Iroquois who lived in the region. In the 1900s, the River was dammed about a mile upstream from the falls for hydroelectric power generation. This caused the waterfall to dry up in the summer months and the area suffered both ecologically and aesthetically. In the 1990s, hearings were held to gather input from all parties and a minimum flow was established to ensure that the falls had a characteristic waterfall appearance year-round.

View of Salmon River Falls from the second viewing platform.

Like so much in life, the lesson behind this natural area is balance. Today, the area is managed by the Department of Environmental Conservation. The Salmon River is an active fishery, the waterfall is a scenic wonder as well as a site for many recreational activities, and the the damming of the river still provides power for the local community. Balance is sometimes elusive but always necessary.

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Hike to Hector Falls in the Allegheny National Forest

This small waterfall in the Allegheny National Forest is a fun hike in any season, but we found it to be especially magical in winter! It can be found just outside of Sheffield, PA. Take Rt 6 to Ludlow and drive about 3 miles along decently maintained roads, used mostly for gas interests, to arrive at the small parking area for Hector Falls. It can be accessed year-round; my daughter and I visited in February, on a snowy day, in our Toyota Prius. The GPS coordinates were accurate, but as reinforcement, a large HF was spray-painted on a roadside tree in the parking area.

From the parking area, the trail is wide and clear. It travels through a forested area of mostly Beech and Hemlock trees. The walk is about 1 mile from the parking area to the falls.

The trail descends in elevation until it meets a small stream. This stream eventually meets with a branch of the Tionesta Creek. Once you get to this small stream, turn right. The trail follows the stream for just a short bit before arriving at the top of Hector Falls.

It is neat to peer over the top of the falls, but the better views are from below. Continue your descent around some large boulders and the water fall appears through cracks in the rocks.

Hector Falls from above.

It is easy, in our cold and grey winters, to hide indoors. It is almost too easy to not venture out, to blame a sedentary nature on foul weather or difficult travel. I invite you to change your perspective. By looking at this waterfall through a different lens, so to speak, I was able to capture a beautiful moment in nature and share it with my daughter. I hope to have many more of these moments and I will not take them for granted.

Frozen Hector Falls

This was a hike that we had taken before, in spring. I thought it was a neat waterfall then, but the pictures I have from that earlier trip just do not inspire quite the same awe as it did in February. So again, get out there and change your lens, or you could be missing out on something truly beautiful!

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5 hours in Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park is a great day trip from Los Angeles. The park includes many diverse desert ecosystems to check out by driving or hiking.

Joshua Tree National Park is a doable day trip from Los Angeles. The drive is about two and a half hours, depending on traffic. I visited this park in January with my brother. We rolled in around noon, which meant we had just 5 hours before sunset. Here is what we did to make the most of it!

We started our day at the western entrance to the park. Joshua tree has three entrances and we began with the entrance closest to LA, but an argument could be made for driving a little out of the way and starting at the south entrance. There are three distinct ecosystems in Joshua Tree, the Mojave Desert, the Colorado Desert, and the Pinyon Pine and Juniper of the Little San Bernardino Mountains. These ecosystems vary due to their differences in elevation. We travelled from west to east, only going as far south as the Cholla cactus gardens. This allowed us to see a bit of all three regions, but another interesting way to explore the park would be to start in the south and work your way west through all three ecosystems. This would offer one the opportunity to see more of the Colorado Desert along with the Cottonwood visitor center and the Lost Oasis.

Exploring the Mojave Desert

The first area we arrived at was comprised of the plants of the Mojave desert ecosystem, including the namesake Joshua Trees! These trees are only found in the northern areas of the park, but as you can see, they are plentiful.

Joshua Trees in the Mojave Desert

Hiking the Hidden Valley trail

Our next stop was the Hidden Valley picnic area. Here we hiked the 1-mile loop trail around large rock formations. This is a popular area for rock climbers. There was snow on the ground here and there, but I was comfortable in shorts with a jacket.

The View from Keys View

For our next stop, we left the main Park Boulevard and headed southwest. We also moved up in elevation. It is the change in elevation that contributes to the variety of ecosystems here. At these higher elevations, the dominant vegetation changes to the Pinyon Pines and Junipers of the Little San Bernardino Mountains.

The view of the Little San Bernardino Mountains from Keys Point.
There were still a lot of Joshua trees en route to Keys View.

Wandering around the Hall of Horrors

After we returned to the main Park Boulevard from Keys View, we passed Cap Rock. This is a very popular spot in the park, partly because of the mythic association it has with the death of Gram Parsons. We didn’t stop here in favor of a less popular pull off called the Hall of Horrors. It was not, as the name implied, horrible but it did have some interesting rock formations.

Skull Rock

We made a quick stop to stare into the eye sockets of skull rock and ponder what was in its head.

Skull rock

Searching for Arch Rock

The sun started sinking lower in the sky and there were still things I wanted to see! One of them was Arch Rock. Normally accessible from the White Tank campground, this parking area was closed when we visited. We parked up the road and after wandering the landscape a bit, found a trail that took us across the road and to Arch Rock. It was a very cool place to check out as the sun was setting.

This unusual rock formation is called a dike. It is a rock with an intrusion of more erosion resistant rock within it.
Arch Rock
Rocks sculpted by weathering

Cholla Cactus Garden

One last stop! We made it to the Cholla Cactus Garden before the sunset and this stop did not disappoint. The cacti were flowering, the sky was lit up in peach and pinks, and we had the time to wander and enjoy this unique area in the third and final ecosystem of the park, the Colorado Desert.

We checked off all 3 ecosystems on our day in the park. As E. O. Wilson said, “Biodiversity is the totality of all inherited variation in the life forms of Earth, of which we are one species. We study and save it to our great benefit. We ignore and degrade it to our great peril.” We are not apart from but a part of this environment. It was a beautiful ending to a day spent reflecting on that.

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5 Things to see in Arches National Park on a hot summer day!

Landscape arch, the longest arch in the world, is a short hike in Arches National Park.

Sometimes when traveling, you have one shot to visit a bucket list park. We were traveling as a family around Utah and were in Moab, home to Arches National Park, for just one day. It was also a day of 90º temperatures! Here is what we found to do to make the most of our day and beat the heat!

The view from the Devil’s Garden trail

5-Devil’s Garden trail and Landscape Arch

The best way to beat the heat is to start early! We arrived in the park by 8:00 am and decided the best plan would be to skip areas like the fiery furnace and the longer hike to Delicate Arch and head to the far end of the park where a short hike would take us to the longest arch in the world. The Devil’s Garden trailhead took us to 4 different arches with less than 2 miles of hiking. The first two arches, Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch, were found on a spur trail to the right, shortly after we began.

Tunnel Arch
Pine Tree Arch

Back on the main section of the Devil’s Garden Trail, it wasn’t long before the sandy trail became peppered with boulders and Landscape Arch appeared on the left. With a light opening of 306 feet, this is the longest arch in the world! In September of 1991, a 60 foot section of the arch broke off and fell. You can no longer hike beneath it. The forces of nature that created these sandstone arches are still at work today, creating new ones as the old ones fall.

Landscape Arch

We traveled up the path a bit as it became more of a rock scramble, to see one last arch. Partition arch was almost hidden in the sandstone wall to the left side of the trail. At this point, the sun was getting hot and we retraced our steps back to the parking lot.

Partition Arch

4-Sand Dune Arch

Driving just a short distance back down the park road, we pulled off again at the stop for Sand Dune Arch. This is a great stop for kids for several reasons. First, the trail is shaded and there is deep sand on the ground. The kids loved it. Second, it is super short, just .3 miles round trip. Third, it was secluded and less popular, we were the only ones exploring it!

Sand Dune Arch
One of the shaded nooks to explore on the Sand Dune Arch trail.

3-Balanced Rock

Continuing on the park road back toward the visitor center, the next stop we made was Balanced Rock. The trail here is also just .3 miles long. It loops around this interesting and delicate rock formation with nice views of the windows in the distance.

Balanced Rock
View of the Windows with the La Sal Mountains in the distance.

2-Double Arch and the Windows

After seeing the array of rock formations that comprise the windows section from afar, we decided to get a little closer. By this time, it was approaching noon and getting pretty hot out. The same parking area serves both the Windows and Double Arch. We walked toward the Windows, but the trail was pretty exposed. We took a few photos from a distance then headed to the closer, shadier, Double Arch.

Trail heading to the Windows.
Double Arch

Double Arch was very neat to look at and you could walk right under the arches and sit in their shade. The red sandstone was in sharp contrast against the brilliant blue sky.

The underside of one of Double Arch’s arches.

1-Park Avenue

At this point, no amount of cool water or snacks could keep the kids from whining. So we made one last stop at Park Avenue, primarily because the rock formations could be seen from the air conditioned car! I made a mental note to return to Arches someday to complete the hike to Delicate Arch and explore the Fiery Furnace on a ranger led tour. But for today, we marveled at one last natural phenomenon together, before heading back to the hotel to spend the afternoon swimming in the pool.

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3 days to see Poughkeepsie and the Catskills

It was November 2020. We wanted a change of scenery for our Thanksgiving Holiday. We wanted to stay in-state, but see something new. All activities needed to be socially distant and close to the house we rented. Life was a bit……stressful! I wanted a break. Here is what we found to do.

Day 1: 1st stop-Russell Brook Falls

To break up the drive and make the most of the daylight, we stopped in Roscoe NY and took a quick detour to Russell Brook Falls. After a short drive down Russell Brook Road, there was a small parking area on the right.

Drive down Russell Brook Road

From the parking area, it was a short walk to the falls. First, cross a bridge and then take the right at the fork to go directly to the falls. A map at the trailhead gave suggestions for longer hikes around Trout or Mud ponds if one had more time and wished for a longer hike.

Take the less traveled path to the right to access Russell Brook Falls.
Russell Brook Falls

We spent 20 minutes or so admiring the falls before getting back on the road. It was a blissful moment of calm.

Day 2: 1st stop-Mohonk Preserve

I wanted to do some hiking. I always want to do some hiking. The kids wanted to sleep in. So my husband accompanied me to the Mohonk Preserve just after dawn, on a rainy morning, so I could get in a hike I have been wanting to do. I recently picked up the book America’s Best Day Hikes by Derek Dellinger. I agreed with a lot of his choices so I thought I would follow his recommendation and check out the Bonticou Crag and Table Rocks trails in the Mohonk Preserve.

We parked at the Spring Farm Trailhead. It was still pretty foggy, but the trails were peaceful this early in the morning.

We crisscrossed several old carriage trails before arriving at the Bonticou Crag spur trail. As it was still pretty damp, we decided that conditions weren’t appropriate for the rock scramble required and took the less rocky Northeast trail followed by the Cedar trail to loop to the Table Rocks trail.

Lot’s of rocks and roots along the Northeast trail.

We were the only hikers on table rock. The solitude and quiet were calming. I sat for a long time and watched the fog lift and the water drip from the tree branches.

Table Rock

The Mohonk Preserve manages an 8000 acre portion of the Shawangunk Ridge, a northern end of the Appalachian Mountains. The ridge at this northern end is wide and flat with views on clear days of the valley below and the Hudson River. Table Rocks and Bonticou Crag, like other areas of the ridge consist of sandstone and conglomerate with a high concentration of quartz which gives these rocky outcroppings a very light grey color. The flat surfaces of Table rocks were also covered with a variety of different hued lichens. Table rocks had a lot of interesting, but potentially dangerous, deep fissures. I would not suggest this hike for families with young children.

Straddling a deep fissure in the sandstone conglomerate of Table Rock.

After leaving Table Rock, we retraced our steps as the sun came out and the sky turned blue. I hope to visit this area again someday in another season.

One last look at Mohonk Preserve as the morning sky turns to blue.

Day 2: 2nd stop-Walkway over the Hudson

After an early dinner, 3 of us headed out to check out some sights around Poughkeepsie. The Walkway Over the Hudson sounded like a great place to stretch our legs and take in a view. There was ample parking nearby.

The walk from the parking lot to the opposite side of the river was about 1.5 miles with nice views along the way.

Looking north, up the Hudson River
Looking south, down the Hudson River

Day 2: 3rd stop-Home of FDR

This was a very quick stop to drive around the former president’s residence. If I were in the area again, I would love to tour the home, but this time we just snapped some photos of the exterior.

Day 2: 4th stop-Vanderbilt Mansion

As with the home of FDR, we knew that the Vanderbilt Mansion was closed but the park-like grounds were open and VERY inviting. Instead of just snapping a photo and driving away, we walked the grounds as the sun set. It was really a very interesting home and a lovely end to the day.

Walkway leading toward the Vanderbilt Mansion

This Vanderbilt mansion was built in 1898 by the grandson of The American railroad magnate, Frederick Vanderbilt. Having no children, upon his death it went to a niece, who then passed it on to the National Park Service in 1940.

Day 3: Minnewaska State Park-Awosting Falls

Heading back home, there was one more stop I wanted to make, Minnewaska State Park. This is definitely not a park to see all in one day. We decided to start with the Lake Minnewaska area, one of the park’s three sky lakes. Right after the entrance, was the parking area for Awosting Falls, so we stopped there first. The walk to the falls was half a mile on a paved trail.

The walk to the falls follows Peter’s Kill.
Green along the trail, even in November!
Top of Awosting Falls
Awosting Falls

After the walk to the falls, we drove into the park a bit and parked at the Lake Minnewaska Visitor Center for one final stop on this trip.

Day 3: Minneswaska State Park-Hike around Lake Minnewaska

Our first look at Lake Minnewaska from the visitor center.

My youngest and I set off to hike the roughly 2-mile loop around the lake. We traveled counterclockwise from the visitor center and our first stop took us down to lake level to a little beach area.

The half way point of the loop afforded beautiful views looking up the lake.

We climbed back up in elevation as we embarked on the second half of the loop. Once we were overlooking the lake again on its eastern side, the landscape flattened out and there was a picnic area with lot’s of great views.

I took in the views, appreciative for this opportunity in a time of great uncertainty. It was time to head back home.

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Letchworth State Park

Best State Park 2015 in the USA Today 10Best State Park Readers’ Choice Awards! That is pretty high praise. I am fortunate that this park in Castile, New York is less than a two hour drive from my home, so I have visited it more times than I can remember. It is gorgeous in any season, but a recent winter trip was absolutely magical.

The southernmost entrance was closed, so we entered the park on the western side at the Castile entrance. Once in we took the park road heading south and made our first stop at Archery Field Overlook. This overlook had nice views of the gorge and the Genesee River.

The next stop along the Park Road was Inspiration Point. Here you can see both the middle and upper falls in the distance. The snow-covered trees made me think we were in Narnia and the kids broke into a spontaneous snowball fight while I took photos of the gorge.

The view from Inspiration Point

I have been reflecting a lot on perseverance lately. There is no doubt that the water flowing over the falls is powerful, but from this vantage point, it is clear that it is not just the power of the water but the perseverance that has carved through this gorge over the years. It was a beautiful sight and a beautiful reminder of what continually moving forward does for us over time.

Once home again, I was eager to compare my photos of this trip with photos of the falls at other times of the year. It is no wonder that this is an award winning park, the scenery is delightful any time of year.

After Inspiration Point, the next stop was the main parking area of Middle Falls. In the summer, there are lot’s of people here, but on this winter’s day, we were almost all alone.

Top of Middle Falls

The upper falls view point is just a short walk along the Genesee River from middle falls.

Upper Falls

What a study in contrasts! There is a third waterfall, lower falls. It was not accessible on our last two trips, but hopefully the trail will be open again soon. More information can be found on the NYS parks website.

Lower Falls

If you are traveling across Western New York, I hope you get the chance to stop at Letchworth State Park. It is picnic perfect in any season.

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Yosemite National Park

Lower Yosemite Falls

I have been to half of the national parks in the United States. From that list, I think Yosemite is my favorite, though that changes depending on what I am currently reflecting on! For 6 days and 5 nights in July of 2019, my family and I explored as much of this park as we could. Today I will share my favorite experiences from that trip with you, I hope that you have the chance to see it yourself someday and form your own impressions and memories.

Tioga Pass-Day 1

Yosemite National Park was the final destination on a longer trip through Northern California. We drove through the Sierra Nevadas once in order to make a stop at Lake Tahoe so to cross back over the mountains and arrive in Yosemite Valley, we entered the park for the first time at its eastern most entrance.

Our first introduction to Yosemite was the Tioga Pass and Tuolumne Meadows. One of my favorite memories is our first stop at Lembert dome. The area was nearly deserted, this was a pleasant surprise. I knew there would be crowds in the valley, I wasn’t sure what to expect in other areas of the park. On every national park trip I have taken, I have found a place all to myself to quietly enjoy. Lembert Dome did not disappoint. The kids stretched their legs, after being cooped up during the drive, by running up and down the dome. I sat and enjoyed the view.

View of Lembert Dome from the trail through Tuolumne Meadows.

The next stop along Tioga Road was Tenaya Lake. I would have loved to hike the 2.5 mile trail around the lake but we were racing the sun and wanted to save some daylight for our arrival in the valley.

We stopped one final time at Olmsted Point, named after the famous landscape architect. This was a low effort vista with incredible views of Half Dome’s northern side in front of us and Tenaya Lake behind us.

Our first glimpse of Half Dome from Olmsted Point.
View of Tenaya Lake from Olmsted Point.

As we turned from Tioga Road to Big Oak Flat and descended into the valley, we got our first view of the Merced River and Yosemite Valley. We checked off first sightings of Bridalveil Falls and El Capitan too before checking into our room at the Yosemite Valley Lodge as the sun set.

The Merced River with Bridalveil Falls in the background.
Bridalveil Falls
El Capitan

Yosemite Falls and drive to Glacier Point-Day 2

On our first full day, I was up early to walk to Yosemite Falls. At less than half a mile from the room where we stayed, I made this my daily routine. I loved getting there first thing in the morning when I had the falls all to myself!

The approach to Yosemite Falls, first thing in the morning.

After a day in the valley, we drove up to Glacier Point. A must see stop on the way is Tunnel View. The view of Bridalveil falls, Half Dome, and El Capitan forms the iconic image of Yosemite. Once above the valley at Glacier Point, the views of the valley below were amazing! The hike back down along the 4-mile trail is one of my favorite hikes of all time. You can read about that hike in another blog post here.

Tunnel View
View from Glacier Point
Close up of Vernal and Nevada Falls from Glacier Point

Biking in the Valley-Day 3

Traffic in the valley can become uncomfortably crowded in the summer. It is no fun to waste beautiful summer days in a car or bus. The valley is huge and even though we did walk from the lodge to Curry Village once, we found that the best way to explore the valley was by bicycle! Daily rentals are available at Yosemite Valley Bike Rental.

We get ready to head out on the bike trail right behind our building at Yosemite Valley Lodge.

After exploring the area around the lodge by bike, we picked up picnic supplies for a ride up to Mirror Lake. Our route was just under 4 miles to the lake. There is a point where bikes can be parked and the last leg uphill to Mirror Lake is walked. We ate our lunch, enjoyed the beautiful scenery, and then explored the lake.

The bike rental was for the whole day. It was a great way to maximize our time in the valley and avoid the crowds.

Floating down the Merced River-Day 4

This was the kids’ favorite activity from the trip! We met for a safety talk at Curry Village Raft Rentals, grabbed our rafts, and off we went! This is not a guided tour. You put in your raft of 2 or 3 people and float at your own pace, as fast or as slow as you like. You can stop at a sand bar along the Merced River and swim or relax in your raft and watch the scenery.

At the end of the trip, the raft company is there to help haul your raft out of the water and offer you a ride back to the starting point if you need it. This was a very relaxing adventure.

Exploring Wawona-Day 5

Wawona is the gateway to some of the biggest trees in Yosemite! Driving to this end of the park brings you to the Mariposa Grove Depot where a short bus ride takes you to well-maintained trails through one of Yosemite’s groves of Giant Sequoias.

Some of these trees, like the Grizzly Giant above right, are estimated to be over 3000 years old. They bear the scars of this age well. Fire is necessary for these trees to reproduce. The heat opens their seed cones and releases the seeds. While the flames clear the earth for the seeds to germinate, the Giant Sequoias themselves withstand the flames. Signs of past fires are on most of the trees. I like the metaphor. I try to think of these trees when facing my own trials, that it is difficult but necessary to grow.

The trees weren’t the only things of beauty in Mariposa Grove, the Lupine were in bloom.

After our hike we stopped at The Big Trees Lodge, formerly the Wawona Hotel, and now once again the Wawona Hotel, for a wonderful dinner before driving back down into the valley as the sun set on another perfect day.

Hiking the Mist trail to Vernal Falls-Day 6

Our final activity of the trip involved a hike to see a couple of the parks famous waterfalls. We took the valley shuttle bus to the Happy Isles Bridge stop. From there, you can hike the John Muir trail to the Mist trail up to the top of Vernal Falls. Even pretty early in the morning, this trail was crowded, but it was worth it. The wildlife didn’t seem to mind all the people.

A bear crosses in front of us on the trail.
Some sections of trail were pretty steep.
Vernal Falls

We hiked to the top of Vernal Falls and found a quiet spot to eat our packed lunch. After, we wandered up the trail a bit farther, until we could spot Nevada Falls as well. Then we retraced our steps back down. An alternative route that combines the Mist Trail with another leg of the John Muir trail would make a nice loop, but some family members were tired and ready to head back to the lodge and its swimming pool.

Nevada Falls in the distance.
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Waterfalls of Watkins Glen and Montour Falls

You have probably heard of or even been to Watkins Glen State Park. It was listed as the 3rd best state park in the United States in a 2015 USA Today poll. It IS a beautiful place to visit, but give yourself a couple of extra hours when in the area to check out some of these lesser-known waterfalls.

Hector Falls

This waterfall, just north of Watkin’s Glen, can be seen from your car as you drive along Rte 414. There are a few parking spots as well for you to get out of the car and admire the falls here.

The Falls of Excelsior Glen

This gorge, also just north of Watkin’s Glen, is easy to miss. There is room for one car to park on the grassy shoulder of the northbound side of Route 414 where it crosses the creek, but it is also just a short walk from the parking area at Clute Park. From this parking area, walk north until you get to the creek at the coordinates here.

Excelsior Glen is located along a stretch of the Finger Lakes trail/North Country Trail system. One could combine these waterfalls as part of a longer day hike. There are 5 cascades in the glen, but we only visited the first two. It was a cool November day, not ideal for creek walking. The first two waterfalls however, can be seen with only a short walk that didn’t require getting wet.

The second fall we encountered was so smooth! It was very relaxing just to sit near it for a bit before heading back to the car.

Aunt Sarah’s Falls

Just south of Watkins Glen is the village of Montour Falls. The next fall was another roadside stop along Route 14. Parking is on the left if you are heading south from Watkins Glen and the waterfall is on the right.

Shequaga Falls

Continuing south and veering to the right onto N. Genesee Street, is the village’s namesake falls, also called Chequaga or Shequaga Falls. There is plenty of on-street parking nearby the little Shequaga Falls Park. The park was decorated for Christmas with the waterfall as the centerpiece at the back.

The holiday decorations and the pretty waterfall made this my second favorite stop of the day. The best was still yet to come!

Deckertown Falls

Moving east, the next waterfall was found at the end of a residential street. There was parking and public access but it skirted private land, so if visiting, please be respectful of the neighbors. After a short walk along Catlin Mill Creek, the waterfall comes into view.

Havana Glen Park and Eagle’s Cliff Falls

The last waterfall we stopped at was my favorite. It was not as tall as Shequaga nor did it have as much water flowing over it as Hector, but it did have a serene setting and a nice walk to get to it. The park itself was closed for the season, but there was a playground and picnic areas and a restroom to make this a great summer destination for a nominal fee. It was just a short drive south from Deckertown Falls and not far from Route 14 if you were making this your first stop and viewing the waterfalls in reverse. There was lot’s of parking here.

The short walk to the falls first took you across the lawn of the picnic area, then it began to follow the creek, complete with the riffles seen in the photo above.

The path was a sturdy mix of wooden boardwalks, metal stairs, and stone steps.

I think this was my favorite fall of the day because of how lovely and secluded the short walk to it was. It was such a peaceful setting and we enjoyed it all to ourselves for awhile.

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Chimney Bluffs State Park

This small New York State Park in Wolcott could be easily overlooked. Depending on when and where you go, one could potentially think they have seen it all in an hour, but I want to persuade you to spend a whole day here. Like with people, first impressions aren’t always accurate. This park might seem like it is just a pretty picnic spot on the edges of Lake Ontario but look deeper with me as I show you the many facets of this park that are revealed as the sun’s position changes across the sky.

There are two entrances to the park. The main entrance featured in the first photo is located off Gardener Road. The image above is at lake level from a lesser-used entrance with its own small parking lot off of East Bay Rd. If you can, arrive at this parking area with the rising sun and you will be treated to an otherworldly landscape. On the morning I first explored this park, the shore was shrouded with fog as I began my walk along the lake.

The shoreline is just steps from the small parking area off East Bay Road. To the right, when facing the lake, is private property but by turning left one can enter the park and walk its mile-long stretch of shore.

A first look at the bluffs through the fog.

The most notable features of Chimney Bluffs State Park are the large drumlins along the water. This drumlin field contains large spires made from gravel, sand, and clay deposited after the last glaciers retreated.

I was alone with the water and the wildlife as I walked along the shore. It was very peaceful. Before long many of the drumlins came into view through the fog.

I walked along for almost a mile before the number of fallen trees influenced my decision to turn around before I reached the opposite park boundary. It was very clear that the shoreline is always changing and eroding. Returning to this spot in another year might yield a very different scene. So I enjoyed this moment of Lake Ontario shore as I made my way back the way I came while the sun slowly burned off the fog.

After my solitary walk, it was time to get my family up so they could see it too. We started at the main entrance off Gardener Road. Here there was a nice overlook of the lake and some trails through the woods. There were also restrooms. The Bluff trail with views of the chimney bluffs has been closed in recent years due to erosion and its impact on safety. So after exploring here awhile we left to access the shoreline from the other parking area off of East Bay Road.

Back along the shore, we enjoyed a picnic lunch and strolls along the water’s edge.

The chimney bluffs were much less ominous in full sunlight. It was a gorgeous May day with a bright blue sky and wispy clouds. The shore was a peaceful place to sit and read a book. The rocks were smooth and varied in color. They were perfect for building or skipping or collecting. We stayed all day.

I promised to show you all facets of this park’s personality and the grand finale is definitely revealed at sunset. I know there are plenty of great places to catch a Lake Ontario sunset but this was the perfect icing on a perfect day. I hope you are able to take the time to enjoy this park as throughly as we did.

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Emilie Jonas Waterfall

I just received my signed copy of the book Waterfalls of Pennsylvania by Jim Cheney. It is a beautiful compilation of his travels to more than 180 waterfalls in his home state. If you love chasing waterfalls and are traveling through Pennsylvania, I highly recommend you pick up this book. Not only does it have beautiful pictures, but it also contains GPS coordinates, relative websites, waterfall stats, trail distances, and other relavent tips in a consistent and concise manner. You can find a link to purchase this book and follow Jim on his adventures through his popular travel blog and website Uncovering PA.

So after looking over his book and reflecting on my own experiences chasing waterfalls, I decided to write about a beautiful fall I visited this past summer in Lansing, New York. Lansing is located on the southeastern side of Cayuga Lake in the Finger Lakes region of New York State, not far from Ithaca. There is a very small parking area found off of Route 34, here. Though the trail and base of the waterfall are open to the public, it does pass through private land so be respectful of the landowners and their neighbors.

After a very short distance, a welcome kiosk highlights the trail ahead and gives some history surrounding the waterfall’s namesake. If you turn right from the welcome post you can view the waterfall from above and not have to attempt the steep descent to creek level.

View of Emilie Jonas waterfall from above.

Turning left from the welcome kiosk takes you down a steep and very narrow footpath, first turning away from the falls and then reaching Gulf Creek before winding back up toward the falls. After a very short walk, the waterfall appears in front of you and it is spectacular!

We enjoyed relaxing briefly at the base of the falls before heading back up. I have always enjoyed the feeling of being near moving water whether it be the ocean, a great lake, or a moving stream. There is research that the negative ions given off at sources of colliding water can reduce the symptoms of depression in some people. Perhaps that is true, so I will continue to chase waterfalls, not for risk, but for the calming presence that they bring.

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Zoar Valley

This is a gem just under an hour away from my home. Zoar Valley is part of a 3000-acre multiple use area managed by the NYS Department of Environmental Conservation. It is known for its deep gorge formed by the Cattaraugus Creek as it flows into Gowanda and eventually, Lake Erie.

In this post, I will share with you our visits to three different points in Zoar Valley over three different seasons. This past October, we took advantage of an 80-degree day to hike the South Branch of the Cattaraugus Creek to where it meets the main stream. To access this hike, park at the Forty Road Parking area. You will walk in the creek bed itself, so prepare to get wet, but that is half the fun!

The access to the creek from the Forty Road parking lot is easy and as long as water levels aren’t too high, this is the safest route because you enter at creek level and can view the sweeping gorge walls safely from below.

I LOVE the grooved paths years of water have carved through the gorge. I think I see some of those scars in me…….wait, those aren’t my words. They actually are in the song Zoar Valley by the local band Uncle Ben’s Remedy. You should probably check them out.

The colors will fade and winter will return, but Zoar Valley is beautiful in winter too. We explored the northernmost point from the Ross parking area, last winter. There is no access into the gorge from here, but you can glimpse the Cattaraugus below at one point along the trail. This is a nice walk through Beech and Hemlock forest that wraps around a small pond as well.

Cattaraugus Creek through the trees.

This was a late-season hike with that pretty stick-to-the-branches snow, but it was still quite cold. At one point, our middle child told us he could not possibly go on due to his cold, wet feet. I looked down to see him wearing sneakers, not the boots that were suggested. Dramatics commenced, tears ensued, I am hopeful that he learned a lesson about preparedness. This memory brings a smile to my face either way, even though I am sure I didn’t find it funny at the time. I do remember trying to focus (both him and me) on the beauty of the woods around us.

Winter melts into spring, both literally and metaphorically. Nothing is certain, except the certainty that things change. Even when experiencing life at its worst, I try to remember and reflect upon impermanence. The winter ends and spring returns. Every. Single. Time.

We visited in the spring, just as our world was turning green again, it was Mother’s Day.

We parked at the end of Valentine Flats Road. After a short walk, the trail forks. Turning left takes you to the view pictured above. It is very steep and would be dangerous to take young children this way, but if you are careful and stay on the trail, it gives you a nice view looking up the gorge. The better trail, in my opinion, is to the right and after a short distance, you are at creek level. If you stay to the right until the end, the path will take you to the point once again where the south branch meets the main creek. We enjoyed all the signs of spring along the way.

There is always something to celebrate.

So whatever season you are in, find a place to enjoy and celebrate what brings you joy. That is what I intend to do, and I hope I can help you find the right place to do the same.

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Allegheny River Trail

The favorite family bike path this summer was the Allegheny River Trail, traveling both north and south from Kennerdell, PA. We actually did sections of this trail over two days, but this is a great day trip for anyone living in the area or for whoever may just be passing through. The kids especially loved the tunnels which were long enough to require the use of headlamps while traveling through them.

View of the Allegheny River, which the bike path follows, from the Kennerdell Overlook.

In June of 2020, we rented a house for a couple of nights in Kennerdell, right on the river. This gave us the opportunity to do a little kayaking as well!

Mid-day view of the Allegheny RIver
Sunrise view of the Allegheny River
Sunset view of the Allegheny River

For our first day of biking, we headed north. Our starting point was very close to the southern entrance of the Kennerdell Tunnel off of a private road. This tunnel is 3350 feet in length. It was pathed throughout and had reflectors to mark the center. Due to its length and curve at the end, you can not see from one end to the other making the headlamps not only fun but necessary!

For more information on the trails including parking, facilities, and maps, consult the Allegheny Valley Trails Associations website.

We traveled about ten miles on the trail. It was paved the entire way except for a roughly 1-mile section of the shared-use gravel Kent Road. The views of the river from the path were beautiful, here and there were also benches or picnic tables to rest and enjoy it. At one point we stopped to watch a Bald Eagle fishing across the river.

We turned around at the Sandy Creek trailhead junction. There were nice views of the bridge over the Allegheny. This looked like another great path to come back and ride sometime!

View of the Sandy Creek trail above us.

The next day we headed south on the Allegheny River Trail. This time our goal was a stop at Freedom Falls and the Rockland Tunnel about 10 miles down the path. We enjoyed more beautiful views of the river.

We parked our bikes at the Rockland Station Road trailhead. The tunnel was in view from here but we took to the road and walked a half-mile up to see Freedom Falls and the Rockland Furnace. We sat and ate our packed lunch in front of the falls. What a fantastic spot! Other than a few people camping up on the hill, we had the whole place to ourselves.

Freedom Falls

After resting by the falls we explored the ruins of the Rockland Furnace. This furnace was in operation from 1832 until 1854 for the production of iron. It was in pretty good shape considering that it hasn’t been used in 160+ years! It is all that remains of the town of Freedom that once stood here. Interesting to think that this area was once probably treeless and that trees have again overtaken the land. After we were done exploring it was time to travel our second tunnel. The Rockland tunnel is 2868 feet long but still long enough to not see the other end! We traveled through it and back again as we headed back to the house for a relaxing dinner and a family game to end our weekend get away.

Entrance to the Rockland Tunnel.
Another look at the Kennerdell tunnel from the inside!
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Oil Creek State Park

Another great biking adventure!

I don’t remember how I stumbled upon this bike trail, but I know that I had not heard of it before 2020, and I liked it so much that we visited it 3 times this summer! We parked at the Jersey Bridge parking area just south of Titusville, PA. This is also within walking distance of Drake Well and Museum, which celebrates the inception of the petroleum industry. Pairing a trip to the museum with a ride on the trail would make for a nice day, but unfortunately, it was closed throughout 2020 due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

We rode this trail, the entire distance of the park, as a family of five twice. It is 20 miles round trip, but the relatively flat grade made this doable for everyone, including the youngest, at age ten. The third trip here we were joined by my parents who, still very active in their 70’s also enjoyed the trail.

The trail is very secluded. Once you leave the parking area, there are no roads or road noise!

The path follows Oil Creek, crossing it twice on the way to an area of the park called Petroleum Center. This part of the state park had a restroom, picnic areas, a seasonal train station, and a very cool interpretive boardwalk with photographs of what the town of Petroleum Center looked like during the Pennsylvania oil rush of the mid 19th century.

Oil Creek, near the south end of the state park, with remnants of Pennsylvania’s oil boom in the background.

This was a great ride, in a beautiful place. It was also a powerful reminder of how humans can both destroy and restore the world that they live in. I enjoy learning the history, but hope to live my life as one of the restorers.

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Exploring Pine Creek

Summer 2020 was full of socially distant outdoor activities. One of our family’s favorites was exploring the many bike paths within a few hours of our home in western NY. The next 3 blog posts will feature our 3 favorites this summer. We started this trip by taking a picnic lunch up to Leonard Harrison State Park in Wellsboro, PA.

This park is in the heart of the area known as the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon and is situated on its eastern rim. The boardwalk leads to overlooks with sweeping views of the canyon and Pine Creek below. When we visited in July, there were also concessions featuring local treats. I was surprisingly pleased to see there is also an Iron Mike statue. These statues, to commemorate the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps, began with the first unveiling in 1935 in Griffith Park, Los Angeles California. Today there are 76 statues throughout the United States. So much of the groundwork in many of the parks I enjoy visiting on the east coast was laid by the workers of this depression-era program.

Now, about this bike trail! We parked at the Darling Run access lot just south of Ansonia, PA. Our plan was to ride about 7.5 miles down to the Tiadaghton camping area and back. The entire bike path is 62 miles long.

The youngest, always trying to catch up!

After riding for about 3 miles, we pulled off the trail to enjoy the creek. It was a warm day and it was a great place to splash and cool off.

After 7.5 miles we arrived at our destination. Again, we waded in the creek. this time we were joined by an adult and a juvenile Bald Eagle. The area was very peaceful.

After cooling off for a bit it was time to return the way we came. A storm was blowing in as we biked the 7.5 miles back to our van.

Even though this trip was in July, I am writing about it in November. In the spirit of Thanksgiving, I am so grateful for a day spent with family, a social program that promoted the protection of beautiful places while putting people to work, and all the people who fought for the protection of species like the Bald Eagle so that we can still enjoy them today.

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Top 5 favorite hikes

Coming up with a list of my top 5 favorite hikes of all time was no easy task. I chose hikes not just for the trail or scenery, but for the particular emotional feel of that day. I encourage you to hike the trails on this list, but also to pick 5 hikes of your own that gave you a memorable experience of heightened emotion.


Number 5-Grand Prismatic Spring Overlook/Fairy Falls Trail, Yellowstone National Park

This was a great hike (meaning nobody complained) that I was able to take with my whole family while traveling through Wyoming in August 2020. This was just one experience we had together during a 2-week tour of Wyoming but it was a very memorable one. I think the combined victory of perfect weather and harmonious children was intensified on this trip by the realization that we were here, on vacation, after months of uncertainty due to the pandemic.

Looking at thermal features along the Firehole River, shortly after leaving the parking area.
Grand Prismatic Spring as seen from above.
Our first look at Fairy Falls
The spray was refreshing on a hot August day.

After returning from the falls, the parking lot for the boardwalk around Grand Prismatic Spring is a very short drive north. I highly recommend combining the hike up to the overlook with this short walk around the spring. The feeling you get as you the heat coming from the earth hits you is surreal.

Posted by Jennifer McMaster Lumia on Saturday, August 22, 2020

Number 4-Mt Marcy Summit from Johns Brook Lodge-ADK High Peaks Wilderness, New York

June of 2018-I had just closed out another school year and was excited about the great plans I had for summer. My first adventure was a hiking trip in the Adirondack High Peak Wilderness with a group of fellow teachers from all around WNY. We hiked in and stayed at Johns Brook Lodge for two nights. This lodge was a great starting point for the roughly 11-mile roundtrip hike to the summit of Mt Marcy. Mount Marcy, at 5344 feet, is the highest point in New York State.

After a great breakfast at the lodge, my friend Mary and I broke off from the group to start out on our hike. After about a mile and a half, there is a short but steep spur trail to take you to the beautiful Bushnell falls. Take the trail! It is well worth it.

Bushnell Falls

For several miles, we trudged through what appeared to be more of a seasonal stream bed than a trail but our lively conversation kept us going. Before long, we reached a break in the trees where we could assess how far we had ascended by taking in the view.

Our first look at the ADK wilderness from above.

For the last half mile or so, the trail opened up to bare rock. At this elevation, one enters an arctic-alpine zone. This ecosystem contains beautiful and fragile plants. If you hike this trail, please walk only on solid rock to protect these plants.

My friend Mary enjoys the view from the summit after our picnic lunch from the lodge.

We retraced our steps to return to the lodge with plenty of time to relax on the deck before rejoining our group for a hot meal. We were tired and sore but felt immensely accomplished after the completion of this bucket list hike.


Number 3-Cascade Falls Trail, Pembroke Virginia

February 2020, I embarked on a whirlwind trip with a good friend. Unlike most of my adventures where the planning is done by me, this trip was entirely planed by my friend Shane and I had the pleasure of enjoying 22 waterfalls and 40 miles of hiking over 5 days! Cascades Falls was the very last hike of a perfect trip which is probably why it was so memorable. The other reason I loved it was because of the suspense that built up as the trail snaked back and both along Little Stony Creek. At every turn you thought maybe the waterfall was just around the bend!

The trailhead for Cascade Falls is just north of Pembroke Virginia in the Jefferson National Forest. You can find the parking lot here. The hike to the falls, on this out and back trail, was just about two miles for a total of 4 miles round trip.

A look at the beautiful Little Stony Creek, not far from the trailhead.

Though it was February, there was still a lot of green on the trail. Mountain Laurel, mosses, and ferns were found throughout the area.

Not having planned this trip, I was not sure what the waterfall would look like. I was walking a little in front of my friend and thought maybe we had arrived when I saw the falls below, but it was just a pretty little seasonal fall along the trail, not on the main creek.

We continued around interesting bends in the creek, often along stone paths like this one below. I tried to discover the origin of this stonework online but only found that the trail was built in the 1960’s. If you know more about who built it, I would love to know!

And then finally, around the corner, the waterfall appears!

The 66′ Cascade Falls

I was fortunate to have the gift of time to sit and watch the cascading water for awhile. This hike, this trip, this moment were all truly worth waiting for. I was happy to relax and enjoy it.


Number 2-Four Mile Trail, one-way from Glacier Point to Swinging bridge, Yosemite National Park

Tunnel View. Our first stop on the drive up to Glacier Point.

In July of 2019, we took a family trip through northern California that ended in Yosemite National Park. I really wanted to hike this trail, but with kids in tow, knew that going down would be the only way to convince them it was worth it. You can book a shuttle for a one-way drive up to Glacier Point from the valley, but they were all sold out. My husband wanted me to have this experience so he drove us up to the top and my youngest child volunteered to be my hiking partner. The two older kids were happy to get a ride back down. This trip made the list not just for it’s sweeping views of an incredible landscape but also for the memory of the time spent with my son and the tradition this hiked started for us. Every trip we have taken since, he asks if we can do a hike, just the two of us.

The spectacular view from Glacier Point. Half dome is on the left. Vernal falls and Nevada Fall are on the right.
Close up of Half Dome, hovering over the valley.
Close up of Vernal falls and Nevada Fall

After taking in the view from Glacier point and stopping in the gift shop to buy popsicles, we were ready to head down the trail. The trail started out wooded but soon opened up to sweeping views of the valley below.

As we made our way down the switchbacks in the trail the view continued, Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, Yosemite Falls, repeat.

Closeup of Upper and Lower Yosemite falls

It was a great hike. We took advantage of magic hour on the mountain and still made it down with plenty of daylight left. Once back in the valley, my mileage tracker told us we had hiked just over 6 miles. So much for the 4-mile trail!

We crossed over the Merced River at Swinging Bridge and headed back to the lodge for a big dinner with the rest of our family.


Number 1-Angel’s Landing, Zion National Park, Utah

My husband and I have always climbed things. On our very first trip together, we stopped at a roadside attraction because the sign said: “Climb our tower!” In Astoria Oregon, we climbed their column. On our honeymoon, we climbed the Arc D’ Triumph. Our daughter climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower as a fetus. Space Needle, Sears Tower, World Trade Center, CN Tower, Empire State Building…..we have climbed them all. So it’s fitting that we started climbing mountains. If there is a hill in life to get over, we will do it together. So my favorite hike of all time was climbing Angel’s Landing for our 15th wedding anniversary.

This trail, located in Zion National Park, is no easy feat. Though only about 5 miles round trip, what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in elevation gain! I first heard of this trail on our family trip to Zion in 2017. I really wanted to climb it, but not with the kids. I decided then that I would just have to return to Utah in the next few years!

In October, there was still plenty of green foliage, but signs of fall were spreading.
I look forward as we approach the first set of switchbacks.
Here we paused to examine our progress.
A look at the red rocks of Zion on a stretch of the trail known as refrigerator canyon.
As we continue to climb, the trail snakes back through the canyon behind us.

This first leg of the trail continues to gain steadily in elevation ending with the super steep switchbacks know as Walter’s Wiggles. This part of the trail is pretty wide and affords hikers nice views. It terminates at Scout Lookout and some people choose to pause here and then head back down.

A look at other hikers ascending the wiggles.
The canyon comes into view again in front of us.
The view from the top!

Before heading back down, we paused on this stretch of rock. There was no one else on this lesser-traveled stretch of trail heading away from Angel’s Landing. We watched as the mid-day crowds arrived at Scout Lookout and scurried up Angel’s Landing in front of us and we marveled at this little evergreen, growing out of such adversity. It was a perfect moment to appreciate how far we had come and a reminder of our own triumphs over adversity.

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Frenchtown, NJ

October 2020 brought us to Frenchtown, NJ for a couple’s weekend while the kids stayed with Oma for the weekend! Why Frenchtown? It was within a 6-hour drive, had plenty of outdoor activity nearby, and was in a state that did not require us to quarantine after we returned! I did a quick google search for the best small towns and Frenchtown met our requirements! Frenchtown sits right on the Delaware River which forms the border between western New Jersey and eastern Pennsylvania.

I booked three nights at the National Hotel. We arrived after 9:00pm the first night, but the dining room was open until 10:00. I loved the feel of renting a room above the restaurant in this old hotel. The service was great and the staff were all friendly.

Day 1

The next day was a beautiful fall day. We took a walk along the Delaware River and the Uhlerstown-Frenchtown bridge which crosses the river. Then we had breakfast at the Frenchtown Cafe before heading out on our bikes to explore the Delaware and Raritan bike path.

The bike path! Wow, what a great find. There are actually two paths, one on each side of the river. The D&R Canal towpath trail is on the New Jersey side and the Delaware Canal towpath trail is on the Pennsylvania side. Both paths are about 60 miles long and there are multiple bridges across the river so you can spend a few hours or a whole day making a loop or figure 8’s along the trails.

There was beautiful scenery on both sides of the Delaware river. The New Jersey side was wider, with the Pennsylvania side often being only wide enough for a single bike, but both sides were equally scenic.

There were a lot of well preserved remnants of the the days when canals in this area were essential for bringing resources to manufacturing centers during the industrial revolution. The D&R canal transported freight between Philadelphia and New York. The Delaware Canal has retained most all of its features from its operations in the 1800’s even though the last paid canal fare was in 1931 when railroads overtook canals as a means of efficient transport.

We rode our bikes from Frenchtown on the D&R towpath trail to the pedestrian bridge at Bull Island. We crossed the river here but continued south and crossed again to arrive in the quiet town of Stockton, NJ. We stopped for lunch at the Stockton Market, an indoor farmer’s market with an eclectic mix of offerings.

Sign at the entrance of the Bull Island Recreation area along the tow path bike trail.
Stockton Market, indoor farmer’s market

After lunch we headed back north, crossed the pedestrian bridge again to bike up the Delaware Canal towpath trail on the Pennsylvania side of the river. We finished 28 miles of biking with a great covered bridge before crossing one more time back into Frenchtown.

Uhlerstown, PA covered bridge

After our busy day of biking, we dined at the Frenchtown Inn. To encourage greater social distancing, they converted outdoor space into a unique dining experience. It was a relaxing meal with a view of the bridge and the Delaware River.

Day 2

Day 2 was a drive to investigate a nearby county park, the surrounding area, and Washington Crossing Historic Park.

First stop-Ringing Rocks Park

Ringing Rocks County Park was a little gem of a place. The highlight was its boulder field full of rocks that resonate different pitches when hit. The rocks showed scars from all the attempts at making music here!

Scars on the rocks were they have been struck.

The trail at Ringing Rocks formed a loop that took you around the boulder field and past a seasonal waterfall. The trail was wooded and well marked.

Season waterfall, just a trickle in October

After hiking the roughly 1-mile loop around ringing rocks we took a scenic drive through eastern PA to pass through the Frankenfield covered bridge on our way to Washington Crossing Historic Park.

The Frankenfield covered bridge

After reading 1776 by David McCullough a few years ago, I had a vivid mental picture of what George Washington’s Christmas crossing of the Delaware was like. I was excited to find that the location was not far from Frenchtown while I was planning this trip. On the drive there we passed signs for Bowman’s Hill Tower and made a quick stop there. There is an entrance fee and they recommend reserving an entrance time online in advance. The website can be found here.

The view from the top of Bowman’s Hill Tower

The majority of the park was just a short drive down the road from the tower. The park preserves several buildings present during the 1776 crossing. My favorite was McConkey’s Inn, located right next to the Delaware River. The sign said that this inn was where Washington and his aides ate dinner prior to the crossing.

McConkey’s Ferry Inn
Sign marking the crossing on the New Jersey side of the river.

The common thread running through the sights we visited was the power of transformation. This area was transformed from untamed wild, to purposed for human use, to abandonment, to a balance between their history, preservation, and enjoyment. May we all find this balance in our travels. May we pay tribute to the past with an eye for sustainable balance in the future.

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Rickett’s Glen State Park

On October 12th, 2020 we took advantage of a drive across Pennsylvania to stop at Rickett’s Glen State Park to hike one of my bucket list trails. The trailhead is off of PA 118 about 24 miles west of Wilkes-Barre, PA. From the sign at the entrance to the park and combining the Falls trail, Ganoga Glen trail, Highland trail, and Glen Leigh trail, we hiked 8.1 miles in a lollipop formation to see all 21 of the park’s named waterfalls!

Entrance to park off of PA 118
Above are two of the first falls we encountered. Murray Reynolds at the top at 16′ high and Harrison Wright at 27′ tall.
Tuscarora at 47′ tall, was one of my favorites.
Conestoga Falls

The park brochure provided some interesting information on the history of the area. It was originally part of land owned by Colonel Robert Bruce Ricketts, a Civil War veteran and later his heirs. According to the park brochure, the area was approved as a potential National Park site in the 1930’s but the outbreak of World War II diverted attention elsewhere.

The trail was rugged. It was easy to follow but often very natural, with stones as stairs and tree roots weaving their way across the path.
Delaware falls
Seneca Falls
At 94′ high, Ganoga Falls is the tallest in the park.

At about the half way point of the hike, there was an interesting rock formation. This area, called the Midway Crevasse and found along the Highland Trail, was situated between the two gorges carved out by the two branches of Kitchen Creek.

Midway Crevasse

At the end of the loop, back where the two branches of Kitchen Creek meet, the hike was drawing to a close. It was not an easy hike, but in the roughly three and a half hours that we were on the trail, I thought of nothing but the beauty surrounding me and how fortunate I was to be in this space, with a body healthy enough to see it all. Sometimes taking the difficult path in life pays off, if we can just take a moment to appreciate it.

The trail less travelled?
Water’s meet
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